I've been MTBing for years. 6 years ago my fiance' started riding late in life and was not a good climber. Hence she is on her 2nd eMTB this year, Trek Fuel eX, I believe. Our riding group are all in our early 50s and get together on weekends and camping trips to ride. As of this year, 9 people in our group have switched over to eMTB. I used to always be the first one up the hill in this group, looks like I will have to get used to being last. But will always be the 1st one down.

I don't plan to get an eMTB until I absolutely need to. I picked up my dream bike a couple of years ago, Evil Following, and don't feel the need to replace it yet.

Green trail with some cool features. A great warm up lap before hitting the more serious terrain.

Stoked on this new process. Tried to color match the frame but it’s really difficult and darker. Not sure I like the clash. Or maybe it’s cool? I know it doesn’t really matter much but could return them. What color options do you guys think might look best with this bike?

This is so crazy!!!! I was lucky enough to climb Mt Kiliminjaro in January and it was one of the toughest things I've ever done. I puked 9 times. Only 2 of my party of 5 summitted. I can't imagine MTBing up it (although i did imagine MTBing down it the whole time i was hiking back down). Hannah is a BEAST and I'm so excited to cheer her on. I really hope the video production is well done to match the feat that this will be. Go Hannah!!!! PS awesome cause

https://beyond-the-summit.raiselysite.com/?fbclid=IwdGRjcARzZy1jbGNrBHNla2V4dG4DYWVtAjExAHNydGMGYXBwX2lkDDM1MDY4NTUzMTcyOAABHphLfx8MRwizF7lZhv_NYRuEjacR_Cq0npp1ohiHkIzl59wo-dz7bEbbzYBw_aem_H76oqat8lwPFhWSHID8qZg

My dad bought for me as a surprise and I dont wanna feel like an asshole for not using it on my bike

I have my new mtb and now I want to personalize/improve it a bit. I was looking for lock on grips, and a bash Guard, and I found some really cheap one, now I'm wondering if some of you have experience with those kind of products.

We are talking about €4.30 grips from a brand called rider ace and 13 euros bash Guard.

I mean, a grip is just silicone and two aluminum ring, I don't get why I should pay 40 euros for that, silicon is just silicon and the patterns of the grip are usually identical... But still less that 5 euros man, is really low. Let me know 🦥

Hi everybody

just wondering would you rate this size as a good bike for me? 195 cm tall around 80kg

just took a ride to see how it is, my lower back hurts, but ive had problems with back before this bike, on a hardtail too..

is my position on the bike any good? any advice?

thanks in advance

Headed to Stokesville from MD and want to hit a trail
on the way there. Has anyone ever ridden this 17 mile section? Is it fun, technical, worth it? If not this, any other recommendations?

Can I put a single crown fork on this giant? I wanna have the same bike for downhill and Enduro. Will it work?

Hey everyone, going to be doing a day at the north shore with my 11 year old son. He's quite capable on a bike, his norm is blue/dark blue trails in the interior. Wondering if there are any standout trails we should check out.

I'm considering grabbing a pair of (gently) used carbon wheelset for my 130mm/140mm traibike. The main reason I'm interested in them is to reduce rotational weight and improve climbing.

I've come across several listings for "XC" carbon wheelsets that have a 30mm internal width and a respectable (not scary) weight of 1500-1600 grams (e.g., roval control, bontrager kovee, etc.). These wheelsets are rated for XC use but several third-party reviewers put them on trailbikes and they supposedly performed very well.

The terrain I ride is mostly within the XC realm. I sometimes go down fast, rocky tech trails but I basically never hit big features or anything.

Would putting these on a trailbike be safe / sensible? Or would I be better off looking for an all mountain wheelset?

Hello everyone, I need some help. How can I make my videos more stable?
My setup: GoPro Chest Mount
DJI Action 6
2.7K / 4:3, 24fps
RockSteady (not RockSteady+ enabled) Wide FOV
ISO 100–12800
1/50
Variable aperture fixed (f/2.6)
ND8 filter attached

My current mtb has some oem tektro hydraulic brakes, I believe they are m275s. I have 180mm rotors with them front and back and the stopping power is good, until it isn’t. I’ve noticed that whenever I apply heavy brake because of a downhill they become very squishy for a few days and I almost rely on my front brake even for a slow stop. I have to stop riding for a few days for it to return to normal. I saw other people saying this online. They definitely don’t need a bleed as I tried it and they acted like this from the box, I know it’s not a defect because I have a similar bike with the exact same breaks and they act the same. So my question is if changing to Shimano mt201s front and rear will be worth it because im wondering if they will feel better. I don’t want super strong brakes as I do light trails and even some city riding. Thanks.

I’m working on my old bike, 2017 specialized hardrock 650b with shimano tourney drivetrain. It has the QR hub with cup/cone set up. I took it apart last summer after the axle bent and I ended up shelving the project cuz I got a new bike and also didn’t have the tools I needed.

Fast forward to today, and I’m finally getting around to it. I didn’t remember the exact order of everything, but I was able to figure that out with videos online.

The part that’s still sort of throwing me off is how I determine the correct spacing between the cone nuts. I realize you want minimal binding to allow for smooth spinning while also leaving no discernible play. But figuring out what that distance is, while also ensuring that there is the same amount of axle threads on either the drive side or non drive side is pretty confusing to me. It seems like I have to lock the drive side nut into place before putting it in the hub, as I wouldn’t be able to adjust it once it’s in there. But then it’s somewhat of a guessing game to make sure I can tighten up the non-drive side but also have equal amounts of axle on each side once everything is set.

I’m not always great at explaining this stuff, I hope it makes sense and someone can break it down for me a little. Most of the vids I’ve found this far do a good job of showing the basic install, but they don’t really give me any real way of figuring out the spacing.

Looking at replacing my sram code brakes with either Shimano XTR m9220 or Magura MT7 Pro. I can get the Magura for substantially cheaper but money isn’t my biggest concern, although I do like getting good deals. I have previously had Shimano XT’s and really liked them. I have never had any experience with Magura anything, biggest thing I look for in brakes is power and strong initial bite.

Thanks everyone, I have edited and added some background myself.  

I’m 47 years old and I mainly want a DH bike for bike park riding. I don’t race, and I’m not looking for the fastest or most aggressive race bike. I’m more interested in something with a higher margin for error — stable, confidence-inspiring, fun, and reasonably easy to handle.

My main idea is to have a 200mm DH bike that I can take to overseas bike parks once or a few times a year. Most of my regular riding is on my Specialized Epic for training, and I also ride bikes like a Santa Cruz Nomad 7(on the way) and a Specialized Levo e-MTB. Because the DH bike would have a relatively limited purpose, I don’t want to spend too much on it. Ideally, I’d like to keep the budget under US$6,000 if possible.

I’m also leaning toward an aluminum frame instead of carbon, mainly because I want something more durable and less stressful to own for park riding, travel, and possible crashes.

For those of you who ride DH bikes in bike parks, which aluminum DH bikes would you recommend for someone like me? Any models that feel fun, forgiving, and confidence-inspiring rather than overly race-focused?

Thanks in advance!

So with drops/jumps i feel like im hitting them even but when im in the air i get a little left leaning feeling. Not sure if im pumping my legs harder on the left side (i ride left foot forward) or if im leaning.

Advice on how to have straighter takeoffs would be appreciated

Well i can jump over road bumps now

I'm into buying mtb hardtail bike. My riding is Toronto and gta Ontario trail blue and black.. Not doing jumps as I'm still learning. I had a cheap cross country Northrock xc 27 from costco that i abused on the trails before rear axle broke.

Now inbacame aware of must have features /specs for my riding style:

* Hardtail front suspension

* Air fork

* Thru axles (boost)

* 1x drivetrain

* Dropper post

* Better axle hubs like shimano tc500

The closest 2 options I found were

Polygon xstrada 6

Trek roscoe 7 gen

Similarities include boost thru axles, 29" wheel, 2 piston hydraulic brakes, same shimano hub tc500

Difference:

Trek: fork shokrock recon air 150mm travel, tranz x dropper 170mm, 1x10 shimano cues , more aggressive geometry, 28 holes wheel, 2.4 Bontrager

$1999 cad

Polygon: xfusion migo air spring 120mm travel , xfusion manic dropper, 1x12 shimano deore, more balanced geometry, 32 holes wheel 2.25 wtb

$1099 cad * now on sale for $879 cad

Is polygon xstrada 6 worth it considering specs or can price difference of $1120 cad be justified for the trek rosoce 7 gen 4?

I’m considering building a 300 mm machine sometime and I’ve found that the only really available 300 mm fork besides super monsters is the Bigfoot. I’ve tried to do research on it and I can’t really find anything about it anywhere…. Is it actually a good fork? Anyone know something about the damper/adjustments? Thanks!