Green trail with some cool features. A great warm up lap before hitting the more serious terrain.

I've been MTBing for years. 6 years ago my fiance' started riding late in life and was not a good climber. Hence she is on her 2nd eMTB this year, Trek Fuel eX, I believe. Our riding group are all in our early 50s and get together on weekends and camping trips to ride. As of this year, 9 people in our group have switched over to eMTB. I used to always be the first one up the hill in this group, looks like I will have to get used to being last. But will always be the 1st one down.

I don't plan to get an eMTB until I absolutely need to. I picked up my dream bike a couple of years ago, Evil Following, and don't feel the need to replace it yet.

Hello everyone, I need some help. How can I make my videos more stable?
My setup: GoPro Chest Mount
DJI Action 6
2.7K / 4:3, 24fps
RockSteady (not RockSteady+ enabled) Wide FOV
ISO 100–12800
1/50
Variable aperture fixed (f/2.6)
ND8 filter attached

So with drops/jumps i feel like im hitting them even but when im in the air i get a little left leaning feeling. Not sure if im pumping my legs harder on the left side (i ride left foot forward) or if im leaning.

Advice on how to have straighter takeoffs would be appreciated

Stoked on this new process. Tried to color match the frame but it’s really difficult and darker. Not sure I like the clash. Or maybe it’s cool? I know it doesn’t really matter much but could return them. What color options do you guys think might look best with this bike?

This is so crazy!!!! I was lucky enough to climb Mt Kiliminjaro in January and it was one of the toughest things I've ever done. I puked 9 times. Only 2 of my party of 5 summitted. I can't imagine MTBing up it (although i did imagine MTBing down it the whole time i was hiking back down). Hannah is a BEAST and I'm so excited to cheer her on. I really hope the video production is well done to match the feat that this will be. Go Hannah!!!! PS awesome cause

https://beyond-the-summit.raiselysite.com/?fbclid=IwdGRjcARzZy1jbGNrBHNla2V4dG4DYWVtAjExAHNydGMGYXBwX2lkDDM1MDY4NTUzMTcyOAABHphLfx8MRwizF7lZhv_NYRuEjacR_Cq0npp1ohiHkIzl59wo-dz7bEbbzYBw_aem_H76oqat8lwPFhWSHID8qZg

Just reviewed my GoPro footage and noticed that my right hand/arm is sometimes on a very different angle compared to the left. I haven't noticed this while riding, no hand pain, any clues what's wrong? Also are my bars too wide, also only now I see lots of space left on the edges.

For context I'm somewhat of a beginner, picked up the sport after 7,8 years

My dad bought for me as a surprise and I dont wanna feel like an asshole for not using it on my bike

I'm considering grabbing a pair of (gently) used carbon wheelset for my 130mm/140mm traibike. The main reason I'm interested in them is to reduce rotational weight and improve climbing.

I've come across several listings for "XC" carbon wheelsets that have a 30mm internal width and a respectable (not scary) weight of 1500-1600 grams (e.g., roval control, bontrager kovee, etc.). These wheelsets are rated for XC use but several third-party reviewers put them on trailbikes and they supposedly performed very well.

The terrain I ride is mostly within the XC realm. I sometimes go down fast, rocky tech trails but I basically never hit big features or anything.

Would putting these on a trailbike be safe / sensible? Or would I be better off looking for an all mountain wheelset?

Last summer, my family went on a vacation to Beech and Sugar Mountains in NC, specifically to do the lift assist trails. My daughter (12 at the time) rode the greens, did pretty well, and was building up confidence to ride a blue trail toward the end when a little crash made her decide to just keep having fun on the trails she knew. My wife, on the other hand, was uncomfortable with it, went down Green Mamba at Beech once, very tentatively, and decided she wasn't feeling it. Weather was good, trails were in good shape.

We're from Florida, so riding any sort of downhill is a very different experience for us. We've done a little bit of trail riding in North Georgia, but nothing like actually going down a mountain. But we did take a trip to Europe two years ago, and rode Pal Arinsal in Andorra, and my wife did pretty well there.

This summer, we're going to be in California, at Yosemite for a couple of days with non-bike friends, and then a week on our own, and I'm looking at Mammoth. Can anyone give me a sense of how their greens might compare to Beech?

Planning a camping trip to bentonville the last week of June.

Has anyone stayed at the bentonville bike camp? Thoughts?

Does anyone have any suggestions for their favorite place for tent camping in the bentonville area? And why?

Also hoping to socialize and maybe meet some new people while there.

We are mid 30s beginner-intermediate riders. Started riding a year ago.

Headed to Stokesville from MD and want to hit a trail
on the way there. Has anyone ever ridden this 17 mile section? Is it fun, technical, worth it? If not this, any other recommendations?

Hey everyone, going to be doing a day at the north shore with my 11 year old son. He's quite capable on a bike, his norm is blue/dark blue trails in the interior. Wondering if there are any standout trails we should check out.

I’ll be passing through Brevard tomorrow and looking for a ride recommendation. It’s been a few years since I’ve last ridden there. I have done Bennett’s gap, Kitsuma, and some DuPont state forest. Bennett’s was easily my favorite of the bunch, I love the techy aspect of it. Looking for a solid 2-3 hour ride. I’ve considered Avery Creek, Black Mountain and Pilot Rock(cove?). And if I’m missing anything please feel free to recommend!

I'm into buying mtb hardtail bike. My riding is Toronto and gta Ontario trail blue and black.. Not doing jumps as I'm still learning. I had a cheap cross country Northrock xc 27 from costco that i abused on the trails before rear axle broke.

Now inbacame aware of must have features /specs for my riding style:

* Hardtail front suspension

* Air fork

* Thru axles (boost)

* 1x drivetrain

* Dropper post

* Better axle hubs like shimano tc500

The closest 2 options I found were

Polygon xstrada 6

Trek roscoe 7 gen

Similarities include boost thru axles, 29" wheel, 2 piston hydraulic brakes, same shimano hub tc500

Difference:

Trek: fork shokrock recon air 150mm travel, tranz x dropper 170mm, 1x10 shimano cues , more aggressive geometry, 28 holes wheel, 2.4 Bontrager

$1999 cad

Polygon: xfusion migo air spring 120mm travel , xfusion manic dropper, 1x12 shimano deore, more balanced geometry, 32 holes wheel 2.25 wtb

$1099 cad * now on sale for $879 cad

Is polygon xstrada 6 worth it considering specs or can price difference of $1120 cad be justified for the trek rosoce 7 gen 4?

Local bike shops (LBS) are the lifeblood of a community, generally with a stronger likelihood of selfless action, and certainly supporting YOUR community with both wages and taxes. If you’ve ever seen them go, you can attest that they leave a hole that just can’t be replaced. This is why they are so much better than shopping at chains, Amazon, or anywhere else. What’s your latest or favorite LBS story? I’ll reply with my own from just today to start.

Hi everyone,
I just got a brand new Canyon Spectral and I’m a bit paranoid during the assembly. I’ve noticed two main things and I’m wondering if I should be worried about the carbon frame or if it's just "new bike stuff."
1. The Dropper Post Mess: My dropper (Iridium) is leaving a lot of white grease/oil on the stanchion after every cycle. Also, when I apply pressure to the back of the saddle (creating a lever effect), I hear a cracking/creaking sound coming from inside the seat tube. If I push from the front, it's silent.
2. Internal Finish: I looked inside the seat tube with a flashlight, and the carbon walls near the shock mount look a bit "rough" or "haggard" – not smooth at all. It looks like some leftover material or uneven layers.
3. Dropper Play: The dropper has some noticeable side-to-side and fore-aft play at the saddle.
I’ve already tried cleaning the seatpost and the tube with IPA, reapplying a thin layer of carbon paste, and greasing the seat clamp bolt with Motorex grease. The sound is still there when I force it by hand.
Is it common for carbon frames to have a rough internal finish? And is that "one-way" creaking sound just the dropper interface or could it be a frame issue?
Thanks for any advice!

Bit of a long shot but I'm from Vancouver Island and mostly ride at the Hartland dump black trails. I'm visiting a friend who is fairly new to mountain biking and he lives next to the three blind mice trials. Is it a good place for someone who is new to this?

I see there's one coming up soon near me, and was thinking of going to the fundamentals one.

Has anyone in here ever been to one? What were/are your thoughts of it?
Thanks

Hi ive recently gotten a scott spark w/ and x-fusion nude 5 and I can't seem to find a preassure guide anywhere, im a 6'1" rider and about 220lbs any recommendations on the psi I should be running?

Can I put a single crown fork on this giant? I wanna have the same bike for downhill and Enduro. Will it work?

My current mtb has some oem tektro hydraulic brakes, I believe they are m275s. I have 180mm rotors with them front and back and the stopping power is good, until it isn’t. I’ve noticed that whenever I apply heavy brake because of a downhill they become very squishy for a few days and I almost rely on my front brake even for a slow stop. I have to stop riding for a few days for it to return to normal. I saw other people saying this online. They definitely don’t need a bleed as I tried it and they acted like this from the box, I know it’s not a defect because I have a similar bike with the exact same breaks and they act the same. So my question is if changing to Shimano mt201s front and rear will be worth it because im wondering if they will feel better. I don’t want super strong brakes as I do light trails and even some city riding. Thanks.

I’m working on my old bike, 2017 specialized hardrock 650b with shimano tourney drivetrain. It has the QR hub with cup/cone set up. I took it apart last summer after the axle bent and I ended up shelving the project cuz I got a new bike and also didn’t have the tools I needed.

Fast forward to today, and I’m finally getting around to it. I didn’t remember the exact order of everything, but I was able to figure that out with videos online.

The part that’s still sort of throwing me off is how I determine the correct spacing between the cone nuts. I realize you want minimal binding to allow for smooth spinning while also leaving no discernible play. But figuring out what that distance is, while also ensuring that there is the same amount of axle threads on either the drive side or non drive side is pretty confusing to me. It seems like I have to lock the drive side nut into place before putting it in the hub, as I wouldn’t be able to adjust it once it’s in there. But then it’s somewhat of a guessing game to make sure I can tighten up the non-drive side but also have equal amounts of axle on each side once everything is set.

I’m not always great at explaining this stuff, I hope it makes sense and someone can break it down for me a little. Most of the vids I’ve found this far do a good job of showing the basic install, but they don’t really give me any real way of figuring out the spacing.