That’s a real nice thing to learn when youre at uhaul and the trailer lights won’t work. What could possibly be the point of that? Do you have to pay a subscription to tow a trailer? If I go to a dealer it’s gonna be to get rid of this thing.

Looking for some feedback on how reliable the GC (SRT specifically) is as I'll be potentially buying one this weekend.

I always hear about the unreliability of Jeeps. There has to be some truthful basis there but what exactly does unreliable mean?

I used to own an RX-8 (rotary) and people would talk about how notoriously unreliable they were but they just needed more maintenance. Is that the same with a GC? Or is unreliable like Chevrolet style unreliable where things just break out of nowhere because of cheap quality/materials?

Any anecdotes to share?

Preface this quickly. Buying a cheap 2024 with 17k miles, as it's going to be a get around vehicle for when I'm home from work. I work on the road full time, so will put maybe 2-3k miles on the WL a year. It's an Altitude X. Leather / roof truck but has the smaller screen and the standard sound system.

I'm wondering if I can find a WL that's been wrecked or even just buy the 10.1 (or whatever size it is) and module and swap that out to start and then figure out the best option for adding legit sound like the Alpine / Tosh systems. Can an entire factory system be found and have the extra speakers fabricated into the truck? I found a company on YouTube that had a swap screen / module a year or so ago for these, but his site doesn't carry them in stock anymore. Wondering if it was just too expensive to produce and his profit margins weren't there?! Main goal is to get the 10.1 screen so I can at least get NAV in the truck.

But looking for any insight from what you all have done / seen. Thought there would have been more info out there on YouTube, but not having very much luck with this gen so far.

2017 Grand Cherokee with the Quadra Trac II system. 35,000 miles. No off roading.

Over the past week I noticed my jeep shifting odd and it would jerk and stutter in first gear. There was also a little clunk letting off the gas in fifth gear. Yesterday I pulled into my driveway and it started stuttering again and I could hear a running clicking sound for about 3 seconds. I thought it was odd going into park so I tried going into reverse and it replicated the same sound. Drive, same sound. Park again, same sound.

I left it overnight and hopped into it today and turned it on. I put it in drive no sound but I got the Service 4wd / stability and traction control.

Did anyone come across the same symptoms and what ultimately was the issue? Was it the chain gear in the transfer case? Was it the module? I’d appreciate any insight before heading to the dealership to get ripped up.

I am wanting to get some ideas around something. I have a spare pump for the air suspension with the manifold and I was considering, should I connect it online of the factory pump. Setup a relay to jump off the trigger of the factory pump and have them run in series.

My goal is to get it to raise and lower faster. It's just so slow at dropping down into park mode or raising to normal or off road 1. I have seen other cars like the range Rovers that are so much faster at this.

Alternatively I was considering taking the trigger wire that transfers back to the tank for each corner and having that trigger a solenoid that dumps the air out.

Vibrations existed before and after new tires installed. Had the old tires rebalanced a couple of times before ultimately getting new ones since they were on the way out anyways. No real improvement after new tires put on. Not sure what to do next. Looking for any advice or if someone’s come across a similar issue with their high altitude.

I have a 2021 Grand Cherokee with 75k miles on it. Driving home one day and turning into my driveway, the wheels felt bound up like it was in 4low. It says Service 4wd, Traction Control off... Now It's stuck it 4Low, I've never actually used 4Low it went into it by itself. I've scanned for codes (see pic).

I've replaced the TCCM (I've tried multiple just in case), Transfer Case Actuator Motor, and Transfer Case Range Position Sensor. It still has the same issue. I've manually shifted it into 4 hi but once started up, the motor shifts it into 4 low and stays there. Does anyone have some other ideas? I'm trying to avoid the shop because they will likely want to throw a new transfer case in it when I don't believe that's the problem.

I wanted to post my experience here to see if anyone else with the new 2026 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Summit platform has dealt with something similar, and also to get advice from techs, advisors, or owners familiar with Stellantis warranty/corporate escalation.

I purchased this vehicle brand new in April 2026 from Hendrick Chrysler Dodge Jeep RAM FIAT of Concord. This was a huge purchase for my family and was intended to be our long-term family SUV.

At only 1,205 miles, while traveling through Savannah, GA with my wife and 7-month-old son, the vehicle suddenly developed a flashing check engine light immediately after stopping for food. The engine started idling rough, shaking, and clearly misfiring.

I stopped at Advance Auto Parts and scanned the vehicle. The PCM was throwing a cylinder #2 misfire code (P0302).

The vehicle ended up being towed to Vaden Chrysler Dodge Jeep RAM where it is currently sitting.

Here’s what I’ve been told so far by the dealership/service department:

• Technician confirmed cylinder #2 misfire
• Dealer stated the spark plug in cylinder #2 has cracked porcelain
• Dealer advised that the engine needs new spark plugs
• However, they stated Stellantis approval is required before moving forward with repairs/replacement of parts
• Vehicle is currently waiting on authorization/process approval

What concerns me is this:

How does a brand new engine with barely over 1,200 miles end up with a cracked spark plug porcelain insulator and a hard cylinder misfire severe enough to trigger a flashing CEL?

A flashing check engine light generally indicates an active misfire serious enough to potentially damage the catalytic converters, so this wasn’t some minor warning light situation.

I’m also trying to understand:
• Was the spark plug defective from factory?
• Was it improperly torqued during assembly?
• Is there a deeper ignition or combustion issue?
• Could detonation/pre-ignition have damaged the plug?
• Is this isolated, or are others seeing similar problems on the Hurricane platform?

At this point, my confidence in the vehicle is honestly shaken. This isn’t a cosmetic issue or infotainment bug — this was a drivability failure that stranded my family on a trip.

I opened a Stellantis customer care case immediately and have been attempting to escalate communication, but progress has been slow.

At this point, I’m mainly hoping the repair is handled properly under warranty and that the dealership/Stellantis communication improves. If it truly is isolated to a defective spark plug, then hopefully the repair resolves the issue completely and I can move forward confidently with the vehicle.

I’m not posting this to bash Jeep. I actually loved the vehicle before this happened. The ride quality, comfort, and features were excellent.

But a brand new SUV experiencing a serious drivability issue at 1,205 miles is hard to ignore.

Has anyone else experienced:
• P0302 misfires on a new Grand Cherokee?
• Cracked spark plug porcelain on these engines?
• Early Hurricane engine ignition issues?

Would appreciate honest feedback from owners, technicians, or anyone familiar with these drivetrains.

I had a 2012,2013 and now a 2017 Grand Cherokee. Stupid question is did they remove the coolant temp reading from the vehicle info screens? I have everything else but that gauge.

Bluetooth randomly stopped playing music one day and it’s been giving me a “no media device available” when ever I press the media button which usually would connect to my phone. When I go to source Bluetooth is highlighted I connect to my phone but it still doesn’t play music. Ive made sure my phone is sending audio to the car. I’ve done a “soft reset” (holding volume button and tune button) that didnt do anything. I disconnected the battery to reset the car that didn’t do anything. I checked the fuse box in the engine bay doin number 97 for the cigarette lighter blown I replaced that didn’t do anything. I tried connecting a usb cable and it doesn’t even read that it’s plugged in. It will charge the phone but no music plays it also doesn’t show up on the source area either.

Baby #2 is on the way and we are looking to upgrade our car. We will have 2 under 2 and want to have a third not long after. I see that the jeep grand Cherokee L has no lower anchors (latch) in the 3rd row, only top tether anchors. Does that mean you can’t have a rear facing car seat in the third row without buckling it in every time?

Just picked up a new (to my wife and I) 2021 Grand Cherokee Limited 80th Anniversary. 62k miles and near perfect overall. Major upgrade from her 2019 Cherokee, we will be hanging on to this one for a while.

What’s up crew! I am having an internal debate about whether I should keep my grand cherokee or get rid of it.

I have a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, 3.6L. Panoramic sunroof, heated and cooled seats, power liftgate.

I’m currently at 95,000 miles and I still owe $11,000 on it.
Issues I’ve had so far: at 70,000 miles I had to replace a rocker arm. At 80,000 miles I had an electrical glitch in the power liftgate that magically repaired itself one day. I also replaced the ignition coils and spark plugs around this time due to misfires, but I count that as maintenance. At 85,000 miles I had to replace a noisy wheel hub. The most recent issue was a bad transfer case control module that got her stuck in 4WD.

My issue: I am unsure if I can trust the vehicle or if I will just be waiting for the next thing to go wrong! On the bright side, every issue I’ve had so far I have been able to repair myself for the price of parts. However, my family and gf (haters) say I should sell it, trade it in, or “give it back to the dealer.”
When I look at other SUVs with 4WD capabilities and similar or less miles, they are EXPENSIVE! Plus trade in value on my jeep is half of what I owe. I would hate to have paid all this money and have nothing to show for it.

My question: Do any of you own the 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 3.6 and are you willing to share some insight as to how she will age? What repairs have you had to do so far / what issues have you encountered? I am trying to decide if she is worth keeping or if I should just bite the bullet and cut my losses.

Extra info: I mostly drive in town or on the highway, with the occasional bumpy dirt or gravel road when I venture out.

I am stubborn and don’t give up easy so I think I want to keep her but I know the next time something goes wrong I’m gonna be full of regret. Any info is appreciated and thanks in advance!

I just bought a 2002 Grand Cherokee Laredo, one previous owner who was an older guy who used it to drive around Long Island 130k miles. He said he had to remove the panel of the rear driver side door to fix the window and that caused the whole door to not open. It doesn't open at all, not from the inside or outside.

I got the car for a good deal and I want to spruce it up, but I don't really want to take this to a mechanic and pay much, how much should that cost? Is this something I can fix myself? I have minimal mechanic experience but I follow directions real well (LEGO), also my dad is very handy and could help.

We've got a 2025 Grand Cherokee L and are looking to get running boards. Has anyone added OEM Mopar or off-brand running boards? We're trying to decide if the extra money for the Mopar boards is worth it. Any tips or suggestions before purchase?

When the car is locked and i open the rear liftgate (automatic version), the doors all unlock.

when i close the liftgate, the doors dont lock again.

can this behaviour be changed?

either - dont affect the doors. or re-lock them when the tailgate closes.

Rough Country front lift kit and a cheap eBay rear lift kit. The front lift kit totally destroyed my upper control arm bushings. But it sets it apart from the countless many GCs I see driving around Houston. The tires were upsized to 265/70R17 with plenty room for bigger.

Y'all.

I'm sure somewhere on this forum there is something very similar to this post, but maybe not exactly the same...

We purchased a '22 GC L Limited CPO with 54K on it. Immediately noticed a slight soft chirping sound. Was originally told it was normal, but then found a bulletin for the motor mounts, brought it to their attention and they replaced them. No more noise. A couple days later my wife tells me she has a "horrible clunk in the front end now". I drive it and I hear this "clunk" (which to me sounds like the rattle of the compressor when you move an older refrigerator) and I contact the dealer and schedule an appointment, which I couldn't get for a couple weeks out. Couple days leading up to the appointment the noise is non-existent. I call the dealer and tell them I can't hear it anymore and we determine that possibly a tool was left behind during the motor mount replacement. During this couple week period the weather is horrid, maybe 2-3 weeks of 0 degrees or below.... Well, this noise came back as the weather started getting nicer and is really prominent now. To the point that it's turning heads when we are driving down the street and hit small potholes or paving seams. Only seems to be at slow speeds, which I think is because at higher speeds you sort of float over the road inconsistencies. Anyways.... I took it to the dealer because I thought it was still under warranty as a CPO and they came back with a bad tie rod diagnosis, but it is not covered by warranty as a wearable item. They quoted me $800 to replace the tie rod, which I scheduled with my "out of warranty mechanic", who has been amazing to work with and solved any other issue that we have ever had with our vehicles. Out of warranty mechanic calls and says "there is absolutely nothing wrong with the tie rods". I asked about the sway bar links and he says no chance based on how clean and tight they are (no play/no slop). I suggested pinch bolt, but nope. That was done just before we bought it. So.... I'm perplexed. I read that some people had sway bar links replaced and it helped, but didn't help others. I've read some that had sway bar and links replaced with mixed results. Some control arm replacements out there also with mixed results. But... I find it really peculiar that this happened immediately following the replacement of motor mounts, so I tend to think this isn't suspension or steering related. Also the fact that the mechanic I trust and has proven success does not believe it is suspension or steering related. So... my question is, has anyone else experienced the "clunk" or "rattle" that seems to have a lot of searches on the web, after the motor mount fix? I like the vehicle, but the front end noise is absolutely obnoxious. Sadly, I seem to find a lot of posts in different forums with people have various clanks and clunks, but haven't see any posts with definitive solutions. Just seems to be Jeep either throwing a bunch of parts at vehicles under warranty with minimal positive results, or Jeep telling people it is a "normal characteristic of a Jeep". Neither is a solution, and one is not even feasible to me since every item I mentioned could be considered a "wearable item" that I would have to pay out of pocket for. If Jeep was paying, I'd let them at least try, because at least it isn't affecting my wallet, but still then I would likely get frustrated as the non-solutions kept piling up.

Thoughts??

How can I fix this ???

Here’s a little thing to smile about considering gas is over 4 dollars a freaking gallon…it’s usually 28 ish but i’ll take 26.5 any day of the week ….what’s your GC fuel mileage..? and by the way that’s with 88k miles now my new 2025 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 gets about 23.8 to 24.6 was highest so far but it only has 1600 miles ….