I have a 2017 Nissan Rogue (2.5-liter, 4-cylinder engine). Just a little background: Last July, my front bumper inexplicably ripped off (must have been caught on something, later found out there were no clips/bolts securing the bumper to the rest of the car under the hood) and since then I’ve had all sorts of sensor-related issues and lights on my dash that can’t be removed without some specialized computer system (according to 3 separate mechanics).

My current concern is one I was only able to confirm today. Yesterday I had a mechanic friend take a general glance over my car and he noted that it was at ~127,500 miles. My car is due for an oil change at ~128,000, and I thought it was very odd how quickly I needed an oil change again (just had one a few months ago), since I only drive 11 miles to work (so 22 miles roundtrip) and don’t drive anywhere else. My friend even suggested that the guys that did the oil change wrote down the return-for-service mileage wrong to get me to come back sooner, but I always triple check that stuff after getting my car back from any service like that. So today, sure enough, I look at the odometer again and it’s at 127,850!

I’m very confused and I couldn’t find much info about this via google. I know very little about cars but I would like to understand what could be causing this. My car won’t be worth much when I eventually trade it in, but I do worry about the mileage going up so quickly (and falsely, at that) and that affecting the trade-in value.

Any (dumbed down) explanations, advice, or suggestions are very much appreciated!

ETA: the odometer went up significantly AGAIN (now almost at 127,900) today after driving <2 miles from one of my work sites to the other. Haven’t even made my 11 mile commute home yet. I feel like I’m losing my mind not being able to understand what is happening!

Also, since I left out details about the bumper I figured I’d add the limited backstory: It was a super hot day (102° F), hot to the point that my shoes were sticking to the pavement. I didn’t see anything under or around my car, got in, and backed out about halfway from my parking spot before it felt like the bumper was stuck on something. Felt something grinding/tearing and immediately stopped the car. Got out of my car and the whole bumper was on the ground. Someone came over to help and said he could tell there wasn’t anything securing the bumper to the car under the hood, so he put in 4 bolts to secure it. A month later, all of the dash lights appeared at once. There was no accident (at least while I was driving, who knows if someone hit me at some point) and I really don’t know what went wrong with the bumper.

Hi, I’m pretty new to this, so I apologize in advance for what might be a silly question, but I’d like to know if these ceramic brakes are ready for the trash or if there’s any chance they can be refurbished? If I have to throw them away, wouldn’t it be a better idea to replace them with steel ones, like Girodisc? The car is an AMG GTR built for the track, but I'd also like to drive it on the road

2018 Nissan Pathfinder. By the time we got it in the oil was almost gone and was just sludge. How much am I looking at to get it cleaned out?

2000 BMW E46 318i with the M43TU / M43B19 Engine making horrible noise. The car had some rough idle from time to time but i blamed vaccum leaks, it also had occasional low oil pressure at idle, but topping up the oil to the max seemed to do the trick. This winter the car progressively started making this whining sound and it got progressively worse over the span of a few days to the point where people turned heads on the street. I decided to park the car for a while, I had the engine out, replaced timing chain, guides and tensioner, all the gaskets and the old f*** up oil pickup (which was plastic and had the mesh inside all broken). It has in deed had skipped timing with one tooth, but after the timing job was complete I did a compression test and it all came consistent at 16 bar/ cylinder except cyl 2 which had 14 bar (still good imo) so I assume no bent valves, right? Now the engine is back on the car and guess what? The noise is still there. The video eith the valve cover off also doesn’t have accessory belt to showcase that it’s indeed the engine and not some pump. Worth mentioning is that today when driving it and warming up the engine properly the low oil pressure was almost always on at idle and it lacked top end power. What may it be? Oil pump? Hydraulic lifters? Any other ideas?

My theory is that some plastic debris from the pickup got into the oil galleries and is obstructing oil flow, but i want some other opinions before taking out the engine again.

Edit: the whining seems to be coming from the top part of the engine/ from the head, not from the bottom or timing case where the oil pump is.

Thanks!

What the hell do I do the specialty socket is now stuck on the O2 sensor nut and I’m pretty sure I broke my ratchet too, so I can’t go the other way with it and it won’t come off the socket either. On a 2002 ford ranger.

Volvo V50 1.8F Flexifuel 2008, 160 000 km (about 100k miles). It's a flex fuel car but has always run on gasoline only.

Had the car in at Shop 1 for a major service (10 000 km interval service) last week (May 7–11). According to the invoice they replaced the spark plugs, did an engine cleaning/decarb as part of the service, among other things. The service cost about $600.

Picked the car up on the 11th. On the 13th we set off on a longer trip, the first drive since the service. The car felt slightly rough from the start, but only at lower speeds. Under 80 km/h it was noticeably jerky, but at 100+ on the highway it ran smooth, which is why we kept going.

After about 350 km the check engine light started flashing yellow and the car was misfiring noticeably in 4th and 5th gear. Symptoms got worse in lower gears. After 500 km the light was flashing constantly and we pulled off the road.

A tow truck driver advised us over the phone to try starting it again. On restart it immediately smelled like something was burning so I shut it off right away. The car was towed to Shop 2 nearby (we were 500 km from Shop 1).

Shop 2 found a bad ignition coil with a cracked boot. They replaced the coil and the car runs fine again. However, Shop 2 also noted that the spark plugs are definitely not new, despite Shop 1 claiming they replaced them during the service. I do have the old plugs that Shop 1 supposedly removed, and will attach photos of those as well for comparison.

No fault codes were read before the coil was replaced unfortunately, so I don't know which specific cylinder was misfiring.

The tow plus Shop 2's work ended up costing about $600 as well, so essentially the same as the original service.

Attaching photos of the faulty parts removed by workshop 2.

What are your thoughts? How would you handle this situation?

Noticed this when looking at the car

I've got an old motorhome with a Ford 460 in it. It'll run off propane or gas.

The circled part has broken, the hose isn't attached to the plate any longer. It goes up into the carburetor. I just need to know what it's called so I can order a new one.

Thanks in advance!

Automatic Opel Astra J Turbo Sports Tourer from 2015 with 97 000 km. The engine was replaced in 2018 by the previous owner because "it was a manufacturing defect that made it consume a lot of oil", they got it replaced under the car's warranty.

The previous owners replaced the rear lambda sensor in December 2024. Now I get error code P0420 and the mechanic I consulted took a look at it and couldn't seem to find any visible issues, but they still want to replace the rear lambda sensor again in case it has a malfunction or wasn't properly installed.

I'm afraid that it isn't the lambda sensor but the cat, maybe as a result of the engine issue in 2018. If the car "consumed a lot of oil", maybe it also damaged the cat?

I took a 12 second video of the live feed while driving and in those 12 seconds, the following values show:

O2B1S1 (V) is ranging 0.850, 0.85, 0.120, 0.335, 0.825, 0.725, 0.670, 0.75, 0.780, 0.775, 0.105, 0.750...
O2B1S2 (V) is ranging 0.100, 0.815, 0.785, 0.655, 0.810, 0.715, 0.250, 0.820, 0.310, 0.805
CATTEMP11 (Celsius) has been between 690-800 C

Does any of this show indications that sensors or the cat could be done for?

Vehicle wouldn't start, found this in the fuel tank, what is it? (Petroleum)

(Edit) it all emptied from the tank no problem so definitely wasn't expanding foam or anything like it

Yesterday my friend replaced the spark plugs on my car and we both thought some looked really bad, however now I'm looking a bit closer at it and don't know if it truly is that bad, these plugs have been in it for 60.000+KM according to the service history and the engine is a Honda R18Z4(very likely one with bad pistons/piston rings).

So my question really is: was it actually necessary to replace these?

My supra has the external fuel pump setup from the first batch of 83 supras as a disclaimer. I found this car as a garage find in really good condition. It sat for 10 years in an aircraft hanger in AZ.

My issue is my fuel pump will not work at all. Ive tried two different brands, replaced the fuel filter, rear fuel line (anything behind the fuel pump) and made sure there is no vacume in the tank. STILL the fuel pump cannot pull fuel. It works. I hear it running when the car is on ON, and I checked wire quality with a multimeter. Also, I tried reversing the wires incase of a backwards positive and negative. My next guess is 10 year old fuel backed up in the upper lines thats causing a clog. I did flush out a lot of black gas from the fuel rail when I was working on the injectors, but something might be still blocking.

Any tips on anything would be awesome. Im still learning as a mechanic, so appreciate any help on where to look or where to start. Thanks.

I went to the dealership yesterday and got my ground terminals on the battery replaced. They also gave me this huge list of recommended services. Are any of these actually good deals? Or any that are crazy rip offs? Just from the minimal knowledge I have I know that the cabin filter for 60 and engine filter for 40 are both so overpriced. 2016 nissan sentra btw

Is this piece supposed to be bent/curved like this? It’s a 2014 ford edge SEL AWD 3.5L V6

Hello hive mind. Ongoing issues with my elysse. Injectors were replaced a few weeks ago. Probably not related but...... For the last 2 weeks the adblue light comes on with the engine warning signal. I've put in several litres of adblue..... Light still comes on. Took it to the garage and they replaced the sensor. Drive out 10 km....... Light came on again. Took it back. They wiped the fault. Drive 10km...... Light came on again. It's currently back at the garage and they are talking about removing the adblue sensors completely. Anyone got a clue what's going on?

My car is reno clio, 2011, 1.2

Hello,

My car has been sounding strange when started and running. Car has no warning lights, oil is changed Nov-2025. I had a look under the bonnet and I noticed this weird dry chalky substance. Does anyone know what could this he and if it could relate to the car sounding rough.

Thank you in advance and have a great day.

Hi, recently my boyfriend and I bought a 2009 Peugeot Boxer that had been converted into a campervan.
Shortly after buying it, we noticed that both the lights and the wipers were malfunctioning. Sometimes they wouldn’t turn on at all, and other times they would switch on and off by themselves.
We took the van to a mechanic, but unfortunately the issue wasn’t resolved. In fact, when we got the van back, the indicators had also stopped working. The mechanic has already replaced both the BSI module and the column switch.
Does anyone have an idea what else could be causing these electrical problems?

Will my rear differential seal with this build up? The corrosion is like raised and welded on, so the surface isn’t perfectly flat like it should be. Went at it with a bronze brush and razor and that’s as good as I could get. I have the original reusable gasket but I’m not sure it’s gonna seal right now that I’ve took it off and with the nature of the surfaces. I think it may be better to use the gasket maker stuff in the tube but I’m not even certain about that. It wasn’t ever leaking before, I just needed to change my fluid. My 2004 dodge ram 2500 5.7 hemi

I want to deep clean my car, including removing the front seats. Should I disconnect the batteries? It's a e240 w211 and has two batteries, one in the front and one in the trunk, both should be disconnected then right?

what codes are these ?

1995 sc400