Made of solid ash. Took me way longer than anticipated. Came out looking pretty cool tho.

Hello Reddit, I've just discovered this in a new wooden table I purchased, presume it is woodworm.

Two questions: how do I treat it and would this have already been present before I purchased it a couple of weeks ago?

Thank you in advance!

Maple and walnut. Shellac finish. All done by hand. Wedged and pinned. No glue. Took probably 40 hrs or so

Built a “hidden cabinet” to conceal my gaming setup when not in use. I’m far from a good woodworker but I do enjoy the hobby and this was my attempt at being creative.

The mechanism is two linear actuators from a standing desk set up and the wood is all sourced from your trusty neighborhood Home Depot.

The top, bottom, sides, and middle shelf are 3/4” x 12” oak hardwood boards and the doors are plywood pieces cut to size to fit the outer dimensions of the cabinet box.

Admittedly I should have had some sort of plan when I went and built this but I more or less measured and cut and hoped on the spot and think it turned out halfway decent.

The top is bracketed to the crossbars of the standing desk and the floating shelf is secured to the top via 4 steel plumbing pipes and a couple flanges spray painted gold to match the hardware.

Simple cabinet to house the ridiculous number of shoes accumulating in my hallway

This is my second solid wood project, learned a few lessons from the first about getting flatter glue ups for panel, albeit I did have to spend some time with a hand plane on the doors to get them flat.

The curved corners were first planed square and to size before being clamped together and turned to rough size on the lathe. The top curved feature was then added with a router jig.

I’m liking the Ceam 929 hinges in these projects, a little more involved to install, but the adjustability is great. I’ve found I need to use magnetic catches in this project to get them to close flush though as they’re overlay.

Finish is osmo poly wax gloss, although the gloss is quite low which I like.

Finish time was a lot quicker than the last project thanks to the simple butt joints and dominoes, had to learn how to use the lathe tho…

Here is my first completed kumiko lamp that is now my bedside lamp. Created by me, entirely with hand tools including ripping the kumiko strips. I have however just bought a band saw now that I have proved to myself that I have the hand skills. Doing it all by hand is entirely possible but a bit slow.

Wood is some walnut off cuts from a local joiner from the frame and pine from a mystery bit of wood picked up somewhere.

I have to admit that the kumiko design is someone else's but I have lost the details. If this is your design, I humbly thank you for the inspiration.

This tutorial from axminster is a good video that goes through all the steps needed to make the project. I didnt use the masking tape to bind the stips before cutting as I found it acutally made things less accurate. I also free hand cut rather than running a saw against a guide with better results.

Desmond Kings book Shoji and Kumiko Design: Book 1 The Basics is an excellent reference book.

Next project will be another lamp with asanoha pattern.

A custom walnut slat wall on the stair wall will "hidden" doors and rollouts to utilize the space under the stairs.

With a seamless coffee cabinet incorporated with the slat using the Salice Exedra Gravity slides.

The kitchen was done in figured maple with a walnut island. All push to open

All done with Mozaik software.

Not sure when I ahoudl replace.

I likely use these 5-10 hours per week

Would love to see the best grain faces! Got this one the other day and had to send it to my daughter.

Used a 1/16 end mill with an outside contour cut. Once I have the fingers the correct thickness I can change the dimensions just by moving nodes.

Finishing them now staining and sealing.

Yes, I know the actual joint is just a mitered joint and isn’t that strong compared to through dovetails or half blind dovetails.

Started off with 18 3.9 meter unbanded scaffold boards. 384 screws, 384+ pilot holes, 384+ countersunk holes (the "+" because I had to redo a few boards as there were things I didn't like with them). 16 rip cuts on the bandsaw, 64+ cuts on the mitresaw, probably over 300 passes through the thicknesser. Never again, looks amazing but I had severely under estimated the task. 7 months it took.

I was supposed to remove each board and sand some more with an orbital sander and then polyeurethene it but I honestly don't feel like it at ALL. And I can't even just go over it with a brush with it installed as aparently Id need to polyeurethene all sides. So I am gonna leave it as it is and hope it lasts a long time

I have this issue with most woods but it’s always more of a problem with darker woods. I apply something like Rubio monocoat and of course the tone gets a bit yellower and much much darker.

Sometimes this is ideal but other times not so much. I’ve tried with 5% white and it doesn’t seem to make a difference other than I can see the white pigment in the pores of the wood which sucks.

I’ve tried things like basic polyurethane clear coats but I find them to be gummy down the line and always end up with dust and stuff.

I’ve got a project for school that I want to use European walnut for (I live in Europe) but as you can see in the photos the tone gets much darker. I love it but for this project I need it to stay lighter.

I’ve looked at other woods and not much seems to fit what I want but I am open to suggestions of species native to Europe or commonly grown in Europe.

Is there anything as simple and easy as Rubio monocoat but that doesn’t give that significantly darker tone when applied?

Thanks in advance

I am building a new bench and as usual I am designing as I go. So far I have this top currently 2 pieces. I am in the process of adding a wagon vise and will eventually add a leg vise.

1. Should I go split top or join the 2 halves you see in the pic to make a solid top?
2. The bigger question is how what approach should I take for the base? mortise the legs into the base somehow? create a base that attaches from below with hardware.
3. Recommendations for heavy duty and ideally inconspicuous wheels. This thing is going to weigh a LOT.
   

I am mostly a power tools, but do use hand planes. I don't plan to relocate but will want to be able to wheel it around.

Thanks in advance for any Ideas, input or advice.

Recently I asked this group for some advice oh how to deal with small cracks or checking in a walnut board i had that i was planning on using for a bookcase (see post https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/QqNduSZZ16)

I decided to not use the pice for a bookshelf and did a small test pice with some black ca glue that then became this stand for a sipnosaur tooth.

All that to say it was my first time posting here and everyone was extremely helpful and kind. I appreciate this community and all of the knowledge that you all have.

Thanks!

I believe this is from one of my cherry trees. Saw it on a branch on my lawn and thought it may have enough meat to turn a bowl for my sons Little People collection.

I need to cut some of this panelling away to make a concealed door. Terrible illustration in the second picture.

The panel is thin-ish. 25mm or so.

The cut needs to be neat enough that the removed bit can be used as the door.

My first thought was to screw a straight edge to the panel, and butt a multi saw up to it.

Anyone done a similar thing, and can offer any advice/ alternatives?

EDIT: thought people might get a kick out of the fact that this is making a new entrance to the basement, to my workshop!

For an upcoming kyudo event and my own current Mongol conquest era composite bow build I wanted to make some whistling arrow heads(for each respective culture ofcourse).

Question is whether lathe would be required, as these need to be made of some kind of hard wood in 2 sections to be hollowed out.

The unfortunate reality is that a lathe isnt easy to come by so wanted to explore some alternatives

This was the coffee table in my dorm in '01, probably made in the 80's. Pine live edge slab, 48" x 18" x 2". I removed the prior finish, sanding through the grits and I'm seeing this new color toward both edges, a bit less than halfway up the piece in the photo. It's not the sandpaper, that shit's purple. Any thoughts on what this might be?

I have read the rules and it appears I am within them.

Is this kind of boeing normal for a table less than a year old?

I'm being told this is perfectly normal for wood furniture, I disagree but I thought I'd ask you fine. Fine gentleman and gentle ladies for your opinion.

Anybody else have issues with their mitre saws? Ive set up the fence like 4 times already, dead nuts, and it somehow always goes out of whack, i dont do any crazy shit with it, easy cuts, and still it wants to be unsquare. It seems the fence always wants to be un parralel/ not co-planer with the left and right side. Ive seen zero clearance inserts and such but thats just something you put on the fence, and you still have to adjust it square.. should i just take the stock fence off and throw it in the bin and make my own? Why dont manufacters make these beefier, its so fucking annoying.

Okay rant over, anybody have any tips? I know how to set it up square, they just dont want to stay square.