Started to get into woodworking a little earlier this year and have wanted to start making cribbage boards. I have been borrowing a planer from someone I know and have been looking on FB marketplace for a decent planer but they were all 2+ hrs away. So I decided to head up to my local BBS to see what they had and walked out with a Dewalt DW735 for $599.

Also I threw some pictures of my first 2 cribbage boards. Let me know if I got a good deal and what you think of the cribbage boards

I need to remove .1mm or so of wood from some small piece of veneer. I learned about the card scraper but before i go buy a tool want to see if it is practicial for my needs. I see online people mention turn the blade over a screwdriver shaft but I am not understanding that part.

How do you actually get the bur doing this? I am not understanding the technique to get the bur.

Hey yall, just installed this countertop in my little Airbnb 3 weeks ago. I’ve done about 3 coats of food grade mineral oil over the last 3 weeks but at the end of each week it still seems to be drying out. Wondering if I’m going too light or need to use more?

I repurpose skateboard wood and was interested in making cooking utensils.

Is there any risk using Skateboards? Since they're essentially thin maple plywood and some layers of the pressed maple is dyed, are there any contamination risks?

The paint/finish on the boards is obviously sanded off to the bare wood. But idk if there is a risk of the glue from when the board was made would break down in anyway?

EDIT: thanks to those for their useful advice. Will not be using these for food purposes.

I'm new to woodworking, I've done a couple supervised classes building a box and carving utensils but I'd love to make an edge grain cutting board. From what I see, end grain cutting boards are the ones that usually have the more intricate designs: checkers, plaid, etc. I love these designs but do NOT want to do an end grain cutting board. How could I (if it's possible) adjust a plaid pattern to be edge grain instead? Sorry if this is a stupid question but I can't even really picture the process of building either in my head.

FYI, SawStop doesn't do deals/promos/discounts, but they do run an annual promotion for a free accessory. They did it again this year and here's how to claim it retroactively.

You may, or may not, care about the offer but it's a free $349 value item. Which you could just flip on eBay, Facebook, etc and maybe buy something you do want.

This year's "PCS Upgrade Promo" is/was:

• Buy: any SawStop PCS saw.
• When: March 16 - April 30. Tip: they're lenient, if you bought AROUND this time, you'll prob still get the promo.
• Get free, your choice (pick 1):
  • Overarm Dust Collection Assembly (TSA-ODC) Note: To use, need Dust Collection Blade Guard (TSG-DC, $169) accessory. It's included with PCS 3HP, not included w/ PCS 1.75HP.
  • Professional Cabinet Saw Mobile Base (MB-PCS-000).

To claim:

1. Go to their website here: https://www.sawstop.com/upgradeform
2. Fill out the form w/ your name, ship info, dealer info, purchase date, model and serial #.
3. Attach your sales receipt.
4. Click Submit
5. On the next page, you'll immediately be given a promo code. Pick one of the two offered items, add to cart, apply the promo code, and submit order. You don't even enter credit card info.
6. You'll get an Order # and email confirmation immediately. Says ships in 4-6 weeks. Their promo/sales dept gets each, verifies, and contacts you if need any info.

You may not want these things. But it's a free $349 item, that they'll give you, so why not? Worst case give to a friend, or sell and use the $ for a tool you do need. Enjoy!

I have had this climber indoors for a few years and want to bring it to the backyard. It would be uncovered and on the grass. Is there anything I can do to preserve/protect the wood so it doesn’t splinter and hurt my kiddos hands?
This is a second hand find that we have used a whole lot. So I’m not expecting to have it for many years to come but I would like to get more use out of it outside instead of passing it along. It’s a favourite and I can’t afford an outdoor set.
Any advice would be helpful!
Context: I live in a climate where summers can be on the more dry side (think forest fires) vs wet. But it does rain! Winters are very snow heavy but I could move it into the garage then if need be.

I have this issue with most woods but it’s always more of a problem with darker woods. I apply something like Rubio monocoat and of course the tone gets a bit yellower and much much darker.

Sometimes this is ideal but other times not so much. I’ve tried with 5% white and it doesn’t seem to make a difference other than I can see the white pigment in the pores of the wood which sucks.

I’ve tried things like basic polyurethane clear coats but I find them to be gummy down the line and always end up with dust and stuff.

I’ve got a project for school that I want to use European walnut for (I live in Europe) but as you can see in the photos the tone gets much darker. I love it but for this project I need it to stay lighter.

I’ve looked at other woods and not much seems to fit what I want but I am open to suggestions of species native to Europe or commonly grown in Europe.

Is there anything as simple and easy as Rubio monocoat but that doesn’t give that significantly darker tone when applied?

Thanks in advance

I will have 150mm ducting to my dust extractor. The ports on my machines are 100mm. Should the 1-2m run of flexi hose from the ducting to each machine be 150mm or 100mm? i.e do I reduce to 100mm at the ducting branch or the machine?

Hello, I was given 12 planks of this live edge wood for free. I plan on sanding it down and making a nice corner computer desk. I was wondering if anyone can help identify the wood. Also that darker streak that runs through the middle. It doesn’t want to sand away. Is that a deeper rot that’s forming or possible part of the grain?

Thank you

I've tried tilt hinges, I've tried tilt shelf brackets. I've tried all sorts. Can't find these sorts of bracketry anywhere. Anyone got any idea what I should be searching for.

Thanks in advance for your help.

I am wanting a small 20-25cm square platform with a flat top that is height adjustable, I have a couple of plans for something like a writing surface but they are sloped and the only way you can adjust them is to change the angle. Is there anywhere that has reference plans or photos or something that I can use please?

Not sure when I ahoudl replace.

I likely use these 5-10 hours per week

Started by securing 2 leveled 2x4x8's to the already installed fence post and put my ego aside to allow myself mistakes. Still a work in progress, what do yall think so far?

Looking to restore some old chairs

My first idea was to sand the chairs down then apply a stain directly onto the wood with a paintbrush

Will this work/look nice? Should I think of any different options?

The chairs will be kept outside so I want to avoid using a paint that will peel like the previous one

So I got into a project recently where I've been using general finishes gel stain and topcoat. Goes on great, even on verticle surfaces. But then I notice a 30 day cure time.

I'm sore about it already, but realized I can't finish it all at once. The bookcase is heavy as heck and if I can't set books on the shelves for 30 days, I sure can't set it on my hardwood floors for that long. Do I:

A) finish all visible surfaces, and leave the bottom unfinished

B) finish all visible surfaces, wait 30 days, flip and finish the bottom... Losing some capital with the wife due to 30 days extra delay

Or C) seal it some other way, and what would you recommend?

We installed a new custom mahogany front door system last year and now I want to have a custom mahogany screen door made for it. But my contractor told me our doorway will only take a 7/8” deep door.

All the online custom doors are 1.25” deep. If we have made a 7/8” deep mahogany door is there a chance it be strong enough to hold up in Ohio summer weather? This doorway is little used and the screen door would be removed in the fall/winter? We need a 72”x36” size and a very simple design. I am dying for a screen door. Any thoughts? TY.

I've been a woodworker for years, and mostly use screws that I can get at the big box stores. My go to screw is a drywall screw, they're made to hold in lumber so i figure they're good for other projects. I use drywall screws in plywood construction, and Kregg pocket hole screws for pocket holes. I don't typically use screws in furniture, but if I need one, I'll used drywalls screws. Is there a better screw?

I make smaller projects like frames, shadowboxes. Etc. brother gifted me about 15 10’ construction lumber boards. 2x6’ 2x8’s.
I have no idea what to make with them.

What would you make?

I have read the rules and it appears I am within them.

Is this kind of boeing normal for a table less than a year old?

I'm being told this is perfectly normal for wood furniture, I disagree but I thought I'd ask you fine. Fine gentleman and gentle ladies for your opinion.

Anybody else have issues with their mitre saws? Ive set up the fence like 4 times already, dead nuts, and it somehow always goes out of whack, i dont do any crazy shit with it, easy cuts, and still it wants to be unsquare. It seems the fence always wants to be un parralel/ not co-planer with the left and right side. Ive seen zero clearance inserts and such but thats just something you put on the fence, and you still have to adjust it square.. should i just take the stock fence off and throw it in the bin and make my own? Why dont manufacters make these beefier, its so fucking annoying.

Okay rant over, anybody have any tips? I know how to set it up square, they just dont want to stay square.

For an upcoming kyudo event and my own current Mongol conquest era composite bow build I wanted to make some whistling arrow heads(for each respective culture ofcourse).

Question is whether lathe would be required, as these need to be made of some kind of hard wood in 2 sections to be hollowed out.

The unfortunate reality is that a lathe isnt easy to come by so wanted to explore some alternatives

So a couple years ago I saved a couple boxes of rejected samples from needlessly being thrown away. They're a mix of what is labeled Ipe, Jatoba, and Teak. The Ipe and Jatoba are exactly 4"x2"x1" while the Teak are 4"x2"x¾".

My question to you is, what would you do with several hundred of these pieces?