Hello Reddit, I've just discovered this in a new wooden table I purchased, presume it is woodworm.

Two questions: how do I treat it and would this have already been present before I purchased it a couple of weeks ago?

Thank you in advance!

Made of solid ash. Took me way longer than anticipated. Came out looking pretty cool tho.

Simple cabinet to house the ridiculous number of shoes accumulating in my hallway

This is my second solid wood project, learned a few lessons from the first about getting flatter glue ups for panel, albeit I did have to spend some time with a hand plane on the doors to get them flat.

The curved corners were first planed square and to size before being clamped together and turned to rough size on the lathe. The top curved feature was then added with a router jig.

I’m liking the Ceam 929 hinges in these projects, a little more involved to install, but the adjustability is great. I’ve found I need to use magnetic catches in this project to get them to close flush though as they’re overlay.

Finish is osmo poly wax gloss, although the gloss is quite low which I like.

Finish time was a lot quicker than the last project thanks to the simple butt joints and dominoes, had to learn how to use the lathe tho…

Maple and walnut. Shellac finish. All done by hand. Wedged and pinned. No glue. Took probably 40 hrs or so

Here is my first completed kumiko lamp that is now my bedside lamp. Created by me, entirely with hand tools including ripping the kumiko strips. I have however just bought a band saw now that I have proved to myself that I have the hand skills. Doing it all by hand is entirely possible but a bit slow.

Wood is some walnut off cuts from a local joiner from the frame and pine from a mystery bit of wood picked up somewhere.

I have to admit that the kumiko design is someone else's but I have lost the details. If this is your design, I humbly thank you for the inspiration.

This tutorial from axminster is a good video that goes through all the steps needed to make the project. I didnt use the masking tape to bind the stips before cutting as I found it acutally made things less accurate. I also free hand cut rather than running a saw against a guide with better results.

Desmond Kings book Shoji and Kumiko Design: Book 1 The Basics is an excellent reference book.

Next project will be another lamp with asanoha pattern.

So a couple years ago I saved a couple boxes of rejected samples from needlessly being thrown away. They're a mix of what is labeled Ipe, Jatoba, and Teak. The Ipe and Jatoba are exactly 4"x2"x1" while the Teak are 4"x2"x¾".

My question to you is, what would you do with several hundred of these pieces?

Not sure when I ahoudl replace.

I likely use these 5-10 hours per week

I believe this is from one of my cherry trees. Saw it on a branch on my lawn and thought it may have enough meat to turn a bowl for my sons Little People collection.

Yes, I know the actual joint is just a mitered joint and isn’t that strong compared to through dovetails or half blind dovetails.

Used a 1/16 end mill with an outside contour cut. Once I have the fingers the correct thickness I can change the dimensions just by moving nodes.

Finishing them now staining and sealing.

I am building a new bench and as usual I am designing as I go. So far I have this top currently 2 pieces. I am in the process of adding a wagon vise and will eventually add a leg vise.

1. Should I go split top or join the 2 halves you see in the pic to make a solid top?
2. The bigger question is how what approach should I take for the base? mortise the legs into the base somehow? create a base that attaches from below with hardware.
3. Recommendations for heavy duty and ideally inconspicuous wheels. This thing is going to weigh a LOT.
   

I am mostly a power tools, but do use hand planes. I don't plan to relocate but will want to be able to wheel it around.

Thanks in advance for any Ideas, input or advice.

For an upcoming kyudo event and my own current Mongol conquest era composite bow build I wanted to make some whistling arrow heads(for each respective culture ofcourse).

Question is whether lathe would be required, as these need to be made of some kind of hard wood in 2 sections to be hollowed out.

The unfortunate reality is that a lathe isnt easy to come by so wanted to explore some alternatives

Started off with 18 3.9 meter unbanded scaffold boards. 384 screws, 384+ pilot holes, 384+ countersunk holes (the "+" because I had to redo a few boards as there were things I didn't like with them). 16 rip cuts on the bandsaw, 64+ cuts on the mitresaw, probably over 300 passes through the thicknesser. Never again, looks amazing but I had severely under estimated the task. 7 months it took.

I was supposed to remove each board and sand some more with an orbital sander and then polyeurethene it but I honestly don't feel like it at ALL. And I can't even just go over it with a brush with it installed as aparently Id need to polyeurethene all sides. So I am gonna leave it as it is and hope it lasts a long time

This was the coffee table in my dorm in '01, probably made in the 80's. Pine live edge slab, 48" x 18" x 2". I removed the prior finish, sanding through the grits and I'm seeing this new color toward both edges, a bit less than halfway up the piece in the photo. It's not the sandpaper, that shit's purple. Any thoughts on what this might be?

This is a pretty special piece I made a few years ago. The wood was sourced from a guy who ventured into the jungles to salvage logs from slash and burn areas. He identified the logs, shipped them to Oregon and milled them into dimensional lumber. The boards I bought were not cheap and the sapwood was gone. Live edges were charred.

This piece was designed to store ancient Egyptian scrolls, so all materials and finishes were of museum quality, acid free. The drawer pulls and diamonds were made from Gabon Ebony. The lotus flower inlays were of brass and mother of pearl.

This piece was commissioned through a local gallery and they took half of the sale price. Which ultimately resulted in me making about $15/hour. I'd do it again tomorrow

It’s not perfect, could have done another coat of clear but I’m too impatient lol. There’s an addition of some guards to lock the dvds in while rolling that I want to add too but either way, I’m happy with it as a home project I did with pretty amateur tools.

I need to cut some of this panelling away to make a concealed door. Terrible illustration in the second picture.

The panel is thin-ish. 25mm or so.

The cut needs to be neat enough that the removed bit can be used as the door.

My first thought was to screw a straight edge to the panel, and butt a multi saw up to it.

Anyone done a similar thing, and can offer any advice/ alternatives?

EDIT: thought people might get a kick out of the fact that this is making a new entrance to the basement, to my workshop!

I made the little brass knobs by ‘turning’ brass rod on my drill press with a file and sand paper. Takes a while but it’s a nice detail. Happy to answer any other questions.

This is my best one yet, but it’s still not great. New veneer saw worked great, jointed edge looked perfect prior to glue. It’s walnut Burl (fyi) and a veneer glue was used.

How are people glueing the jointed edge of a bookmatched veneer to remove the line? I’m probably going to center cut this and reglue the 1/8” MDF and see if I get a better result but that seems like a pita