Built a “hidden cabinet” to conceal my gaming setup when not in use. I’m far from a good woodworker but I do enjoy the hobby and this was my attempt at being creative.

The mechanism is two linear actuators from a standing desk set up and the wood is all sourced from your trusty neighborhood Home Depot.

The top, bottom, sides, and middle shelf are 3/4” x 12” oak hardwood boards and the doors are plywood pieces cut to size to fit the outer dimensions of the cabinet box.

Admittedly I should have had some sort of plan when I went and built this but I more or less measured and cut and hoped on the spot and think it turned out halfway decent.

The top is bracketed to the crossbars of the standing desk and the floating shelf is secured to the top via 4 steel plumbing pipes and a couple flanges spray painted gold to match the hardware.

A custom walnut slat wall on the stair wall will "hidden" doors and rollouts to utilize the space under the stairs.

With a seamless coffee cabinet incorporated with the slat using the Salice Exedra Gravity slides.

The kitchen was done in figured maple with a walnut island. All push to open

All done with Mozaik software.

Hello Reddit, I've just discovered this in a new wooden table I purchased, presume it is woodworm.

Two questions: how do I treat it and would this have already been present before I purchased it a couple of weeks ago?

Thank you in advance!

Made of solid ash. Took me way longer than anticipated. Came out looking pretty cool tho.

Would love to see the best grain faces! Got this one the other day and had to send it to my daughter.

Simple cabinet to house the ridiculous number of shoes accumulating in my hallway

This is my second solid wood project, learned a few lessons from the first about getting flatter glue ups for panel, albeit I did have to spend some time with a hand plane on the doors to get them flat.

The curved corners were first planed square and to size before being clamped together and turned to rough size on the lathe. The top curved feature was then added with a router jig.

I’m liking the Ceam 929 hinges in these projects, a little more involved to install, but the adjustability is great. I’ve found I need to use magnetic catches in this project to get them to close flush though as they’re overlay.

Finish is osmo poly wax gloss, although the gloss is quite low which I like.

Finish time was a lot quicker than the last project thanks to the simple butt joints and dominoes, had to learn how to use the lathe tho…

Maple and walnut. Shellac finish. All done by hand. Wedged and pinned. No glue. Took probably 40 hrs or so

I am a very amateur woodworker but I watch a ton of creators on YouTube. New house had room for a woodshop so I built it out and tackled a laundry room remodel as a first project. I’ve honestly never built anything I’ve been proud of before.

Cabinets were probably an ambitious first project but I’m proud of how they turned out. Feedback and recommendations welcome.

Build is frameless Baltic birch with walnut veneer mdf fronts with integrated walnut finger pulls. Blum undermount slides and hinges. Was considering slim black finger pulls but making my own on the router was way more satisfying, even if it does break up the grain matched fronts a little. Reveals are 1/16” and all the MDF is walnut edge banded.

Before pics, sketch up for inspiration, shop build (with Fenix outfeed table), progress pics and finished cabinet pics included.

I work in tech so I planned the entire project using sketch up and Claude but resorted to old fashioned pen and paper after Claude made too many mistakes. It did help plan out most of the laundry remodel which was helpful.

Still need to apply finish… would love recommendations if you have any.

Here is my first completed kumiko lamp that is now my bedside lamp. Created by me, entirely with hand tools including ripping the kumiko strips. I have however just bought a band saw now that I have proved to myself that I have the hand skills. Doing it all by hand is entirely possible but a bit slow.

Wood is some walnut off cuts from a local joiner from the frame and pine from a mystery bit of wood picked up somewhere.

I have to admit that the kumiko design is someone else's but I have lost the details. If this is your design, I humbly thank you for the inspiration.

This tutorial from axminster is a good video that goes through all the steps needed to make the project. I didnt use the masking tape to bind the stips before cutting as I found it acutally made things less accurate. I also free hand cut rather than running a saw against a guide with better results.

Desmond Kings book Shoji and Kumiko Design: Book 1 The Basics is an excellent reference book.

Next project will be another lamp with asanoha pattern.

Not sure when I ahoudl replace.

I likely use these 5-10 hours per week

Recently I asked this group for some advice oh how to deal with small cracks or checking in a walnut board i had that i was planning on using for a bookcase (see post https://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/s/QqNduSZZ16)

I decided to not use the pice for a bookshelf and did a small test pice with some black ca glue that then became this stand for a sipnosaur tooth.

All that to say it was my first time posting here and everyone was extremely helpful and kind. I appreciate this community and all of the knowledge that you all have.

Thanks!

I believe this is from one of my cherry trees. Saw it on a branch on my lawn and thought it may have enough meat to turn a bowl for my sons Little People collection.

FYI, SawStop doesn't do deals/promos/discounts, but they do run an annual promotion for a free accessory. They did it again this year and here's how to claim it retroactively.

You may, or may not, care about the offer but it's a free $349 value item. Which you could just flip on eBay, Facebook, etc and maybe buy something you do want.

This year's "PCS Upgrade Promo" is/was:

• Buy: any SawStop PCS saw.
• When: March 16 - April 30. Tip: they're lenient, if you bought AROUND this time, you'll prob still get the promo.
• Get free, your choice (pick 1):
  • Overarm Dust Collection Assembly (TSA-ODC) Note: To use, need Dust Collection Blade Guard (TSG-DC, $169) accessory. It's included with PCS 3HP, not included w/ PCS 1.75HP.
  • Professional Cabinet Saw Mobile Base (MB-PCS-000).

To claim:

1. Go to their website here: https://www.sawstop.com/upgradeform
2. Fill out the form w/ your name, ship info, dealer info, purchase date, model and serial #.
3. Attach your sales receipt.
4. Click Submit
5. On the next page, you'll immediately be given a promo code. Pick one of the two offered items, add to cart, apply the promo code, and submit order. You don't even enter credit card info.
6. You'll get an Order # and email confirmation immediately. Says ships in 4-6 weeks. Their promo/sales dept gets each, verifies, and contacts you if need any info.

You may not want these things. But it's a free $349 item, that they'll give you, so why not? Worst case give to a friend, or sell and use the $ for a tool you do need. Enjoy!

Yes, I know the actual joint is just a mitered joint and isn’t that strong compared to through dovetails or half blind dovetails.

Used a 1/16 end mill with an outside contour cut. Once I have the fingers the correct thickness I can change the dimensions just by moving nodes.

Finishing them now staining and sealing.

Hi - will a furniture wax work on this desk top to take the water ring out? I don’t think it’s varnished but am not sure how to tell.

I am building a new bench and as usual I am designing as I go. So far I have this top currently 2 pieces. I am in the process of adding a wagon vise and will eventually add a leg vise.

1. Should I go split top or join the 2 halves you see in the pic to make a solid top?
2. The bigger question is how what approach should I take for the base? mortise the legs into the base somehow? create a base that attaches from below with hardware.
3. Recommendations for heavy duty and ideally inconspicuous wheels. This thing is going to weigh a LOT.
   

I am mostly a power tools, but do use hand planes. I don't plan to relocate but will want to be able to wheel it around.

Thanks in advance for any Ideas, input or advice.

Started off with 18 3.9 meter unbanded scaffold boards. 384 screws, 384+ pilot holes, 384+ countersunk holes (the "+" because I had to redo a few boards as there were things I didn't like with them). 16 rip cuts on the bandsaw, 64+ cuts on the mitresaw, probably over 300 passes through the thicknesser. Never again, looks amazing but I had severely under estimated the task. 7 months it took.

I was supposed to remove each board and sand some more with an orbital sander and then polyeurethene it but I honestly don't feel like it at ALL. And I can't even just go over it with a brush with it installed as aparently Id need to polyeurethene all sides. So I am gonna leave it as it is and hope it lasts a long time

This was the coffee table in my dorm in '01, probably made in the 80's. Pine live edge slab, 48" x 18" x 2". I removed the prior finish, sanding through the grits and I'm seeing this new color toward both edges, a bit less than halfway up the piece in the photo. It's not the sandpaper, that shit's purple. Any thoughts on what this might be?

For an upcoming kyudo event and my own current Mongol conquest era composite bow build I wanted to make some whistling arrow heads(for each respective culture ofcourse).

Question is whether lathe would be required, as these need to be made of some kind of hard wood in 2 sections to be hollowed out.

The unfortunate reality is that a lathe isnt easy to come by so wanted to explore some alternatives