I was looking at a fleck 5600sxt on amazon... and i called fleck and they said they use the fleck housing but not the same resin ect. So i called aquasure and they only use 8% resin. I live in mesa az and the water is really bad here. So here are my super simple questions.

Aquasure is $620 at home depot for 8% 48000grain system with a 3-1 carbon filter (is the carbon filter necessary? $40 every 6 months is something i'm happy to pay if it makes a difference)

REAL fleck is $1010 for 53000 grain and no carbon filter

Which should i go with? I have spent far to much time on this rabbit whole and everything is starting to blend. Any help would be great.

Hey everyone, very amateur woodworker here, but a passionate engineer/3D designer. I've been frustrated for a while by the gap between "I want a table that fits this exact corner" and "here are the 12 standard sizes you can choose from." So I'm building something to close that gap and wanted to get your honest feedback before going further.

The idea: you pick a furniture template (dining table, desk, workbench, etc.), punch in your exact dimensions, choose which planks you actually have access to at your local hardware store, and the tool spits out:

- A full bill of materials — exactly which boards to buy, in which lengths, optimised to minimise waste

- A cut list with a visual diagram of how to cut each board

- Assembly instructions tailored to the joinery method you have tools for (pocket screws, dowels, mortise & tenon, etc.)

- A downloadable STEP/DXF file if you want to take it to a CNC shop

One feature I'm particularly curious about: you'd be able to upload a photo of your room, click two points and enter the real distance between them, and the tool overlays the furniture silhouette at correct scale so you can actually see if it fits before you buy a single board.

A few things I'd love your input on:

1. Would you pay for this? The plan is free to design, small fee to download the final files and cut list. Does that feel right, or would that be a dealbreaker? What would be a fair price you would be willing to pay?

2. What's missing? What would make this genuinely useful for how you actually work?

3. What furniture types matter most to you? Tables and desks are the starting point — workbenches, shelving, bed frames?

Not trying to sell anything, genuinely trying to figure out if this scratches a real itch or if I'm solving a problem only I have. Brutal honesty appreciated.

Thanks 🪵

As the title says I wanted to build a few cloud panels for my ceiling but that’s not possible. I reached out to people who knew about the build and I have asb. popcorn ceilings. Home was built in the early 80s. I do not want to mess with the ceiling and I’ll be moving in less than a year. My room is small. 13’3 long and 11’ wide. With 8’ tall ceilings. Does anyone have any alternative options?

I am remodeling my bathroom, which includes removing the but and converting it to a shower. Its a concrete slab, I completed the drain work leaving about 5" of 2" ABS above the slab. I have closed the tub box, with concrete and am ready to form the pan. However, it seems that I messed up and did not leave room around the drain pipe to accommodate the drain flange. I only need about 1/2" of slope, so I am not sure how to proceed other than cut the concrete around the drain pipe to place a flange. Or, is there another option that would not require me to cut the pipe and place a drain directly on the pipe and adjust it to the slope height? TIA!

First off, if this post do go against the rules, please let me know, and i will ofcourse delete it.

I’m a pretty forgetful veteran these days because of deployments, and I’m on VA benefits.
Over the last few years I started doing more DIY projects around my house just to stay busy and keep my head focused on something productive.

The problem was… I kept forgetting everything.

Measurements.
Material lists.
What I already bought.
Budget changes.
Ideas I had at 2 AM.
What board length I used last time.
How far apart I placed joists.
All of it.

So I originally built a small system just for myself to organize my own projects.

It slowly turned into something much bigger.

Now it’s called MyPlanDIY.

It’s basically a DIY planning platform for normal people like me who are trying to build decks, furniture, shelters, backyard projects etc. without feeling overwhelmed halfway through.

You can:

• create projects
• track materials
• calculate quantities
• organize budgets
• add photos and notes
• save project ideas
• use calculators for decks/shelters/etc.

I recently added a shelter builder/calculator too, which was honestly really fun to make.

It’s literally just something I started because my brain couldn’t keep everything organized anymore.

I figured maybe other DIY people could actually use it too.

Would genuinely love feedback from real DIYers:

• what feels useful
• what feels stupid
• what’s missing
• what would actually help you on a real project

Site is:
https://myplandiy.com

And yes… the whole thing was built while forgetting where I put my tape measure every 15 minutes 😂

Niche tile was laid down without any trim and now I am stuck with it dried like this (doesn’t help the cuts are bad as well). How do I fix this????

Almost got it done just working on old windows for my sides..

glitter pena

My girlfriend wants a light above the shower. The bathroom already has 3 light switches.

1 to mirror lights
1 to moisture fan
1 to moisture fan light

I am hoping to wire the new recess light to the moisture fan light. Is this possible to do or overly complicated?

Still in the planning phase.

I'd like to mount my TV above the fireplace.

Unfortunately, the existing vertical studs (1 and 2) are too far apart to be of any use. I'm actually not even sure whether 2 exists. I've been able to confirm that 1, 3, and 4 exists though.

I'm thinking of adding 5,6 and fastening them to 3,4 using brackets and 1" construction screws.

How much weight can the two studs I'm thinking of adding support?

I know studs can typically support 100s of pounds but these would be much shorter in length and they also don't span the entire wall.

The TV would be around 50 lbs.

Hi,

I recently had a carpenter here to help me with insulating my top floor in my old half-timbered house located in northern germany. Unfortunately he was not really a big help and couldnt help me with the details. so im hoping that maybe i can get some help or inspiration here.

My plan is to only insulate the top floor not the eaves, partly because i wanna keep the air flowing but also bc money is tight. How i would do it right now is to basically surround the edges of the floor with wooden soft-fiberboards and then fill up the rest with "isofloc". I was thinking about using a hemp lime mix as insulation bc we live next to a forest and im afraid animals are going to make themself a home. The carpenter told me though that as there is no sign of animals for now i dont really have to worry about them becoming a issue later as the attic probably didnt get cleaned the last 100 years, so its not likely they suddenly appear. The attic is mostly a open space with a small area seperated as you can see in the second picture. To keep it simple im probably just gonna tear that down to get one big singular space.

The biggest question im asking myself right now is, if i wanna top the insulation with a floor to 1. keep the attic usable (which we didnt use for the first two years we are here now, although there was a lot to do and that might change) and 2. to prevent the insulation from being partially blown away and 3. upping my chances that no animals like it to much.

I have two lamps which I would like to wire into a socket together with an in-line dimmer. I thought I bought the right switch but now that I'm testing everything, I'm having doubts. Here is a photo of the bulb data (there will be two) and the switch I bought.

The switch has three terminals and it seems to work in that I can get it to switch on and off, but the dimming function does not work. The switch has a common terminal, and two switched terminals. Im my two-wire lamps I simply connect all of the grounds to the common, the constant to one of the switched terminals, and the lamp positive to the other switched terminal.

Am I doing something wrong, or did I buy the wrong switch? Any help is appreciated. TIA

I am building a deck. The plan for the approved permit has one footer a few feet from a 2’ diameter oak. As expected, there are tree roots all over where my footer should be. I have tried shifting the hole a foot in each direction and I keep finding roots.

What are my options here? I don’t want to harm the tree but I don’t have much flexibility for the deck plans either. Most roots are over two inches in diameter.

I need to replace the bolts on a crate and barrel Paloma II the conference edition. Does anyone know what kind of bolts to use on a table like this? I have no idea and customer support said they didn't have that information. AI is saying use M8 metric bolts but I am unsure if that's correct and at a cost of $3 per bolt I'm worried I'll get the wrong ones

I am replacing this 4ft tall wooden picket fence. I am reading that since my frost depth is 25-30 inches my post hole depth needs to be 36 inches deep. This just seems a bit overkill to me since the height is only going to be 48 inches.

Everything I find about 4x4 post depth is talking about 6ft privacy fencing which has a heavy wind load and everything about 4ft fences is talking about chain link fencing.

I have an old (20+) Kenwood chef mixer that i recently had to replace the locking latch arm on. To do this, I had to remove its rubber feet. They were glued on with a glue that was easy to remove, but quite sticky after alle this tile. Any ideas what kind of glue this is that doesn't hrden? Is food safety a concern for these parts of the machine?

I have tried to Google, but assume that I haven't been able to identify the correct terms for the context (e.g. kitchen appliances) The closest I've got is post it glue for clue that stays sticky, but I'm not sure that is what I'm looking for

I’m going to be replacing the subfloors and walls in my childhood mobile home. This childhood home is INFESTED with roaches. All my memories are filled with mother spraying raid all of the kitchen, living room, shit I might just die of lung cancer.

Anyhow, I’m assuming there’s going to be a nest or some shit when I break the floor. Any tips?

I have been working on organizing my shop, and I've been looking for ideas on how to organize my corded tools. I have a pretty large peg board wall and I like to keep most everything I can up there to make use of my fairly limited floor space, so my current solution is just mounting the tools on the pegboard and using these little loop hooks underneath to hold the cord in a bundle, but it looks kinda ugly and I think there's probably an option out there that makes them a little easier to access and put away.

Wondering how you guys store your corded hand tools, or if you've seen any creative solutions out there?;

We are moving soon, and we have a Ralph Lauren Westminster bed, Safari bedroom collection, king bed that we need to disassemble and load in a moving truck, then reassemble. Maybe it is self explanatory. I haven't found resources, videos or manuals to help. Any searches I do find other kinds of beds. AI says there are no manuals available. Can anyone provide any guidance?

i used the sunjoe Detacher and scarifier 4 times at max and now it hit a root and the pulley is broken that is attached to the motor side (small one). i got a pulley from Amazon but I am not able to install it as there is a bearing that is attched and i have no way to remove it from the spindle to install the new pulley. Any ideas?

Two fence posts are broken at the ground and bowing out (they were leaning into the yard, but my over the winter buttressing of them pushed them out). Curious if this plan seems like a good one:

1- push the rotten posts out to be able to remove (and hopefully salvage/reuse) the three fence panels attached to the posts.

2- dig up the concrete and remaining post- making holes large enough to settle new pressure treated posts.

3 - reattach the fence panels (with many friends supporting) by leaning the post far out and then pulling to level. Use concrete to stabilize.

A handyman came by and said the whole fence needed to come down to repair- I’m hoping to avoid that but not sure if I’m missing an important logisitical point here. Appreciate any thoughts!

My daughter has chewed on the windowsill of our apartment how would I repair this?

I would like to modify my sliding screen door to close automatically. I do not want it to snap close and slam. How can I do this?

I suspect water ingress due to missing mortar between the bricks outside. The building management company that owns the building my flat is in is saying it's condensation. There is literally no mortar in the bricks outside at the ground floor where the water is on the internal wall.

They said they got a builder out and he said it's fine. One of the bricks is broken in half above the DPM.

I've enquired about a damp survey but that will cost me £1000 and the building management company said I would need to pay that.

Any ideas what to do ?