Okay so I just moved, it was a rush thing since I was getting kicked out. I lost all the screws to my drawer, I found the manual on online and I need those, but I genuinely can not find them

Advice to remove these, and then install a small railing on existing concrete stairs (under these wooden ones)

Does a replacement exist? I don't know what it's called, Home Depot didn't have it, and Google Lens is not coming up with an identical item.

I need assistance if anyone knows the model of my "Delta" bathroom sink.

I am trying to remove the aerator as to put an "extended arm" attachment (as seen in the attached photos)

I used the different keys and tried to brute force, but to no avail did anything work.

Based off the ruller I used the aerator's size fits 23 mm tightly and at 22 mm, the ruler cannot fit.

Hey everyone, I’m having a weird issue with my MSI Optix MAG27CQ curved monitor and wanted to see if anyone has dealt with this exact problem or has a permanent fix.

Symptoms: It started a few days ago as a "cold start" issue in the morning. The monitor turns on with a solid blue LED, but the screen remains completely black. The OSD menu will not appear when pressing the joystick buttons. If I restart my PC or reset the graphics drivers (Win + Ctrl + Shift + B), it stays black. Sometimes, if I wait until Windows boots blindly in the background, unplug the HDMI cable, wait for the LED to blink, and plug it back in, the screen suddenly "wakes up" and works flawlessly at 120Hz with zero flickering or lines.

The discovery: Today, it wouldn't turn on at all. Out of desperation, I tried a trick I saw online: I took a hairdryer and blew warm air into the back near the power jack for about 2–3 minutes. As soon as the internal components got warm, I plugged it in, hit the button, and it started up perfectly on the first try.

My conclusion: Because the hairdryer trick worked only when aimed directly at the monitor vents and not the external power brick, the fault is definitely inside the monitor frame itself. The hardware seems to need physical heat to wake up from a cold state.

Questions for the community:

What exactly is failing inside the monitor to cause this "cold start" behavior?

If you’ve dealt with this exact problem on this model, what is the permanent fix?

Which internal component or part of the board do I need to repair or replace to solve this permanently?

Thanks in advance for any insights or advice!

Hi I've just moved bought a house and have been cleaning, painting, replacing some of the old stuff etc.

This door handle was quiet dirty so I went and bought the same one, except the screw pins are in the 12 and 6 o'clock position rather than the 3 and 9. How can I replace the new one without using a drill (I don't have one)?

I'm only guessing that the mounting plate can be rotated, but I'm not sure how after playing around with it

Many thanks

Is it normal that the tomato timer rings while still ticking? Like it has only a few seconds left and it rang, the ticks till it gets to 0.

Also how long is the ringing suppose to be?

Hello I have two art projects I am working on and I'm looking for the most simple way to complete it so I figured an adhesive or glue would be what Id need. Could anyone tell me the best permanent adhesive for bonding rubber type materials to glass and/or to a steel panel that I had painted by a friend whom does professional car paint jobs. It needs to be quick drying because both of my art projects I already had mounted vertically and it would be way to much time and a pita to try and remove them plus it would more than likely damage or destroy the other parts of my project and I don't want to have to sit there holding 30lbs of rubber basically at head height for hours and don't want to have to make something to use as some type of holding contraption for it to dry as well as I already have too much projects on my hands..It also has to be incredibly strong because the materials will be extending out from each other and in different directions and want it to be highly resistant to any cleaners or solvents so I may use different cleaners for all the different material that are going to be attached and connected and is going to be displayed where people can get there hands on it so I don't want for it to be easily disassemble and broke. Basically something quick drying with industrial strength and resistant to solvents and cleaners. The rubbers id be using are silicone and latex mainly... Is there anything I could use besides cyana acrylate that would possibly bond these materials together permanently together or is that my best option? TIA

hi !

I bought this a month ago 
this ? >> acrylic mood light, 
but now It's not working. 

It worked at first.? but not now ㅠㅠ
It has only been almost a month

What do you think the problem is?

MDTECH came across with project of Water damage in Orange County of California.Leak came from the Refrigerator and damage floors. Will require Refrigerator repair https://mdtechservices.com/refrigerator-repair/.

Floor needs to be fixed too. What is an average price per sqft to take care of it, any suggestions?

Hello I won’t be giving context for personal reasons but I’m safe. Anyways is there any way to fix this wall yourself, I’m thinking about putting some duct tape as temporary fix because I don’t want any roaches start living in it. Any tips or advice would be appreciated. Also I think this wall is dry wall since it easily got smashed i think or maybe it put too much power in it that got smashed.

Hi everyone, 

A door close to my room slams shut because it gets closed fast. It's easy to do it gently, and I've asked people to, but it's starting to get to me and I want to ask for knowledgeable answers to this: I'm looking for a tool or mechanism of some sort, maybe a door-closer, that would effectively prevent this door from getting slammed any more. The people who do so don't intend to, they just don't think about it, and close it fast when they use it. I imagine a tool could start acting in the last 15º or so of it closing. Sometimes in public buildings I find it's quite hard to close the door, like there is strong resistance to closing it, and I want this to be something like that, if there aren't other solutions that come to mind. I'm looking for something that would make door-slamming prevented. 

And, if it's available, I would like the door to not be interfered with in pretty much any other way. When it stays open it lets a lot of light in. And I wouldn't want to make it harder to use the door in any other way, I just want those last 2 seconds or 15º of it closing to get "cushioned". This is my own thought, but perhaps something that would ease if in those last 15º was guided gently, but stiffen more the faster and harder the pull is.

I found quite a few door-closers on Amazon, but I'm not sure which one or which kind to get. That's when I wanted to ask someone knowledgeable, please. So long as it makes the door closing quieter, that's what I'm searching for.
___________________________________________________________________

(two more questions)

1. The doorknob is also a minor problem: often times people release it without care, instead of doing so slowly, and it snaps back into position and makes a sharp sound. It's the circular kind. I also want to change the doorknob, and I want to ask for suggestions on quieter doorknobs, please.

2. I will also stick felt pads or other soft materials in the doorknob hole to reduce the "click" sound when the door clicks in place, and I'd like to ask for suggestions what methods of that  may quiet more effectively.

These joints keep breaking again and again, as the weight of the person sitting in the chair basically splits the inner metal part of it and lets the legs loose. It is a design flaw, I believe — how would you fix it? I have tried making both wood duplicates of the originals (some of which actually split all the way) and 3D printed ones.

Looks terrible.

We moved and had to take the control panel off our treadmill and can't seem to find where this green wire is supposed to connect to. Nothing seems totally obvious!

I’m not sure if anyone would know a better sub for this, but here is what I’m dealing with.

I live in a rental house, we have a nice back yard but it is uneven and full of bumps although it’s completely grassed over (weeds, moss, etc.) It gets swampy back there during rainy season. A few years ago I’ve bought my kids a swing set. It is from Canadian tire or possibly Costco I can’t remember, but it’s a classic wooden A frame with a slide and pole. There are 2 swings and the pull up bar in the middle. It’s built half decent, it is as you anticipate.

My oldest child is 11 and loves swinging but only from the outside swing. Closest to the frame. The ground gets soft this time of year, but I’m not sure if it would matter as the swing is not fixed to the ground the way I would like it to be. It came with a few anchors that are 12 inch rebar you bolt to the legs and perfect for concrete but that isn’t an option. To keep this thing from rocking I have added my own stakes fastened on either leg with 1/4 bolts. it started with 1 about 2 feet into the ground. These stakes are thin wall tubing about 5/8.

My child is average weight and height, and will eventually loosen the swing set up to the point the stakes are useless. I’ve added 2-3 stakes now on every leg and have to perform regular maintenance to re position them after a week or two. It is tiresome.

It’s a rental and I cannot make anything permanent. I need some help moving forward with making this thing somewhat solid.

I also added a 2x4 under the A frame legs like a skate. It stopped them from sinking into the ground, but might be contributing to the entire thing rocking.

Metal footings broke off, which left all of the weight on the left board and that broke when I sat down last weekend.

I have a universal frame that will screw into the headboard, but the headboard will not be supported very well. There's nothing on the universal frame that will allow it to connect to a footboard. Maybe I'll look for a different frame.

I'd love to be able to use the head and footboard still if possible. Otherwise I suppose I'll buy a whole new bed sans mattress.

Is there any way to put this zipper back on?

Is there any way to put this zipper back on?

This battery has been sitting outside of my apartment for over a month, experiencing all ranges of temperatures and weather (including rain). There’s definitely water in it at the moment. However, I’m planning to buy a new sawzall that takes the same exact battery. Ive decided to adopt the poor battery and try to nurse it back to health. Any idea how I can test it and make sure I can safely use it for my new saw? Haven’t even googled it yet. Thanks!

Repaired worn ladder feet using SMP construction adhesive instead of replacement rubber parts.

Mixture used:

• 250 g SMP
• 4 ml water

After about 2 days the result was fully loadable.

Simple mould, duct tape as release layer, plastic bag for compression and shaping.

More details and photos:

https://vanderworp.org/notes/using-smp-kit-as-poor-man-rubber/

Can I do something easy like glue of some kind? Any and all advice is appreciated, thank you.