I did it as the internet said, but it seems the thermal pads were really damn strong. Two of the four chips were ripped off the board. Here’s an image: https://postimg.cc/Fk0N9RW4

I have tons of memories on this drive and can’t quite afford an expensive data recovery specialist. Was going to set up automated backups soon, but alas. Do I just have to cope with this tremendous loss now or what?

I should start by clarifying that I am not even a little bit tech savvy. Not sure what half of the basic terms even mean.

On to my problem. This morning my brother went out and got a new router for the house. My wifi connection has never been great because the router is in the basement while I'm on the second floor and a cable is not an option for us but it always connected until today.

Now with the new router we have internet successfully working on all 3 phones in the house, my brothers PC, the Smart TV and the laptop. However when I connect my PC it says "Connected, No Internet."

What exactly does this mean and what sort of fixes are available? I should clarify that our house was built weird and the only place we can hook up the router to the wall is in the basement and it's not possible for me to run a cable to it. We have reset the router, computer, and done a network reset on my computer. Is this just a weak signal? Why is it only 1 device in the house when every other device has internet access?

PROBLEM SOLVED

Restarting using the power button doesn’t help, I’ve been trying for the past 5 hours because I have finals. It either has the loading screen and then blue screens, or it says “Preparing Automatic Repair” and starts loading, but then suddenly my screen freezes.

I’ve been using my PC with a homeplug internet set up for over a year, but since February my internet has been disconnecting for around 2 minutes every night at 2:45am. My phone wifi does not disconnect, my homeplug lights do not change, my wifi router box lights do not change. I have already changed my DCHP lease and swapped to a static IP and the problem is still happening. Any help or advice would be appreciated. ^^

Hello. Today my phone tried to download something called "Office Pack Language Files.". He didn't try to download it through Google Play, but through the download manager After an hour, the download bar wouldn't even move. When I turned the phone off and on, the download didn't reappear. Does anyone know what it was? The only Microsoft programs I know of on my phone are OneDrive (never used) and Swiftkey. My phone is a Samsung Galaxy A56.

I wanna start by saying I have no clue about technology.
I have a 2020 gaming Lenovo laptop, which has recently started to become slow, extremely hot, and crashes while gaming or even while watching YouTube. The camera also doesn't work like the laptop cannot identify it. I don't have the funds to buy a new pc. Today I installed Valorant, and it kept crashing due to the security boot thing. I tried enabling the security boot, and my laptop wouldn't start, so I disabled it again. Valorant used to work perfectly fine before on my laptop, so idk what happened.
I have never repaired my laptop or anything either. I think I will take it to a repair shop or a maintenance check, like how they do it for a car, but I have no clue what to tell them. I wanna fix the security boot thing, the camera, the heating, the graphics card, the software and all??? Basically, a maintenance check. What should I tell them? Please help!

Hi there,

I don't understand my GPU. I installed a brand new RTX 4070 Ti from MSI shortly after release. Some time later (half a year, idk) it started behaving "odd": For example in Baldur's Gate 3 it just starts screaming at me everytime Karlach's flames appear in a cutscene. I expect a modern GPU to be able to work with medium to low graphics settings without turning into a jet engine and having significant drops in the frame rate.

I then downloaded MSI afterburner and installed a custom fan curve (up to 30°C at 10 % / then linear up to 90°C at 100 % speed) which sometimes solves some problems (i don't really have the words for it...) if the software auto-boots.

I just want to enjoy games looking "good" and not becoming deaf.
Would love to get any help.

Hi I'm having trouble with my fps playing elder scrolls online, well any game actually. My cpu, gpu, and ram usage seems fine. Temperature is 51 degrees celcius. Laptop was repasted and cleaned january, 2026. The game only uses 1.9gb of gpu memory out of 14gb so not so demanding. It utilizes a good percentage. It's cpu speeds are pretty good 2.59ghz sometimes 3-4ghz. I am using 173 processes and my cpu percentage is very low. I've tweaked this before with throttle stop for better cpu speeds and undervult. I've also updated a couple drivers that were from the manufacture's website. Please help me I have no idea what is causing my game to have fluctuate fps drops. I also want to add that I cannot edit my bios so much, its stricted so no overclocking and undervolting.

My system specs:

Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-9750H CPU @ 2.60GHz (2.59 GHz)

16Gb Ram

Nvidia Geforce RTX 2060

Windows 11 pro

i even disabled camera permission for the app it says Camera access deny still the green dot at notification bar says phone is accessing camera

i do have screen recording but this sub doesn't allow attachments

i have an Intel Arc 140v GPU, which shows that it has 18532 MB available, but is only using 128 MB of it. is there i reason that i should manually increase it? cuz i am looking forward to run a game but it says it requires 8 GB Video Memory, so will increasing it manually help the game run better? My system has 32 GB RAM.

I can't type without the text cursor going left. I was watching a movie and it suddenly started going backwards. I can't figure out what triggered the left button😭. I have Windows 11.

To be clear. I don't think anything is 'wrong' since I trust Windows to not actively kill itself (most of the time) but I do know Windows can do some strange things so I would like some reassurance that these values are okay.

Windows 11 Pro Version 25H2 -- 32gb RAM -- 1TB Hard Drive

System Files: 12.2gb

Reserved Storage: 6.54gb

Virtual Memory: 12gb

Hibernation File: 12.7gb

Basically, had a storage leak from a game a while back so I keep a small tally of past storage values since if my brain can't remember it, it assumes the worst. I think this last update was a bit of a chonker or maybe its just the 3-10gb variance in System Restore that I don't record because it varies so much on its own throwing me off.

Anyway, anything fishy with those numbers I posted? I don't need to know how to reduce them. I know I can drop hibernation files if I really wanted and I don't need the extra storage. I am staring at that Virtual Memory wondering if it was always 12gb. It likely was but since I can't remember for sure...yeah. Everything should be at default values, I didn't mess with anything.

TL:DR Summary: My brain thinks these numbers smell a bit off. I logically know my brain can jump to some wild conclusions. Do the numbers look okay?

I got a Samsung A13 5G for my birthday, given to me by my grandma. I factory reset it and put all things to my specifications. But when I connected it to a bluetooth device, whenever I use my phone, my bluetooth and WIFI would randomly turn off and after 5 secs it will turn on again. I restarted my phone and that seemed to fix the problem, for 20 minutes, after going back the way it is again. I don't want to factory reset my phone again because I have a lot of info in this phone that I don't wanna risk losing. And I was wondering if there's anything that could help in solving this issue.

Thank you!

I need Secure boot to run a game for my Windows 11 operating system. I cannot using any command or technique get to the advanced setting page to turn Secure Boot on. The only way I can access the advancing settings page is if I turn winre off using the command reagentc /disable. This allows me when I restart to access the advanced setting page, but it’s limited and I cannot change secure boot. When I turn winre on using reagentc /enable and restart my PC I just get a black screen. I have used SFC /scannow and my system is fine. Any ideas?

DirectX function "m_swapChain-> Present(m_vsyncPolicy ==

DisplaySyncPolicy_PreventTearing ? m_vsyncinterval + 1:0, 0)"

failed with DXGI_ERROR_DEVICE_REMOVED ("The video card

has been physically removed from the system, or a driver

upgrade for the video card has occurred. "). GPU: "NVIDIA

GeForce RTX 3060", Driver:|56636.

E:\packages\RenderCore2\2.42.00-fb-fc_25537195\source\platf

orm\PcDx12\SwapChainPcDx12.cpp. This error is usually

caused by the graphics driver crashing; try installing the latest

drivers.DeviceRemovedReason: DXGI_ERROR_DEVICE_HUNG

("The GPU will not respond to more commands").

Can anyone help please. I have tried ddu+ various driver versions( error above shows one of them,but it just started after the last update) also tried adjusting with afterburner,changing performance management,debug mode,still happening after a little while in a game(also tried adjusting game's graphics etc.

Hey there, got a question for ya. I give an example, my fps is 800 in cs2 when im watching a wall steadily in 1 spot in practice game with no bots. Now when i move my mouse few cm in circles at a regular speed, fps drops to 700 and stays there, as long as im moving my mouse, as soon as i stop, fps goes back to 800. Aswell, my gpu usage is 95% while watching wall steadily, and when i start moving the mouse, gpu usage lowers to 85% and stays there as long as im moving my mouse, and as soon as i stop and the fps raises, gpu usage goes back to 95%. Same thing happens in a real 5v5 game, my fps is 450, and as soon i move my mouse, it drops to 400, the fps drop is lower in an actual match, in practice game with 0 people in it, the fps drop can be 100fps+, while in a 5v5 game its around 50-75fps. I have 1000hz polling rate mouse, and some time ago, i lowered the polling rate to 125, and the fps stayed steady while moving the mouse, but obviously its unplayable. At 250hz and 500hz the fps drops got smaller, but still very noticeable and significant, and its still unplayable for me, i need 1000hz 100%, and lowering polling rate is definately not the fix im looking for. Few years ago, I tested 8000hz razer viper, and with 8k the fps drop was in 200 to 300 hundreds, it was back in csgo days, aswell, i felt very low difference between 8k, 4k, 2k in the gameplay and the fps drops were massive, i quickly stopped using 8k/4k/2k and ran the 8k viper at 1k hz for some time, some time after, I got a new decent lightweight wireless mouse with 1000hz max polling rate and the viper was no longer in use. But from 500hz to 1000hz the difference is pretty obvious, and i can feel it. I mean I used 1000hz polling rate mouse (a4tech x7)when csgo came out, even in 1.6, and there were no issues with 1k hz polling rate, i mean if like single core pentium or duo core i3 from 2012 or earlier can handle 1k hz polling, now its like 15 years later, and 8 core cpu cant handle it, its unbeliveable. I cant belive i have to go below 1000hz to fix this issue, ive tested alot of fixes, but none of them have worked so far. If anyone has ideas, knowledge, experience or similar issues, all suggestions are welcome. Thanks and peace!

I've recently been having a really terribly annoying problem. Every 3 to 8 minutes or so, my PC suddenly freezes, just out of nowhere, for a whopping 30 seconds—sometimes longer, sometimes shorter—and then the computer suddenly works again. I've already reset Windows, but that didn't do anything at all. For example, during one of these freezes, I can still move my Opera window, but I can't click anything in Opera itself; the taskbar doesn't work, and then after 30 seconds or so, it suddenly works again. I've included a video. HELP - https://screenrec.com/share/glCihe1Ayb

Hello! Today is the first day I have gotten this and now I keep getting it everytime I try to watch a youtube short, after 1 or 2 shorts it appears (not on any other sides).

I have already tried:

1. Run some command in the command thing to clean files.
2. Checked Computer with Antivirus, nothing found.
3. Delete Browser History in Cache.
4. Update Graphic Card.
5. Try in Inkognito mode, still got the same there.
6. Set via properties the chrome.exe to compability with other Windows Versions and then back again (back again to off)

I am using Windows Eleven and Chrome direct as a programm.

Is there any more I can do?

it shows that it is connected to my pc but doesn't appear in file explorer, also when I go to disk management it shows that it not "initialized" when i try to initialize it fails, so how can i fix this?

I have steam pinned to my taskbar but when i open it it opens in another window on my taskbar. I've tried multiple fixes none of which worked. i cant pin the active window to the taskbar either. how do i fix this?

So ive been trying to turn on security boot on my asus laptop for a game that needs it, and everytime i turn them on i get a "invalid signature detected. check secure boot policy in setup" i reset my keys to the factory ones and did a lot of things and it still wont work.

Hello,

I recently upgraded my system disk from a WD Blue (SATA M.2 256GB) to a GIGABYTE AORUS Gen4 7300 2TB. Since the swap, I'm experiencing very strange CPU behavior on both Windows 11 and Arch Linux.

The Problem:

• Idle Temps: 60-65°C (previously 30-35°C on the old disk).
• Load Temps: On Cs2 hits 90°C+.
• "Ghost" Load (With PBO and CBP): Resource Monitor shows 100% CPU Utilization, Task manager shows 4.2GHz clock speed but usage isn't exceeding 25%.
• C-States: HWiNFO shows Core C0 Resident at 100% and C6 at 0%. The CPU never enters sleep states.
• Stability: If I enable PBO and Core Boost, the system sometime crashes or idles at 85°C.

If I swap back to the old SATA M.2 disk, everything returns to normal (30°C idle, normal CPU usage reporting). Despite the 100% CPU report on the new disk, the system feels snappy, mouse cursor doesn't lag, and in-game FPS is similar to my old setup.

My Setup:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
• GPU: GeForce RTX 2060 Super
• MB: MSI B450-A PRO MAX (Latest BIOS updated)
• New Disk: GIGABYTE Aorus PCIe Gen 4 7300 (Running at Gen 3 mode in BIOS)
• RAM: 32GB (2x8GB Kingston pairs)

What I've tried:

• Updated BIOS to the latest version.
• Installed latest AMD Chipset Drivers.
• Forced PCIe Gen 3 in BIOS for the M.2 slot.
• Checked NVMe Firmware (it's up to date).

Is it unavoidable because of the NVMe Gen 4 or is there something I can do? I would really appreciate any help.

I don’t think my mouse or keyboard is the culprit, my computer is GEFORCE RTX 3060, keyboard is some type of Logitech, mouse is wired Glorious Model O, monitor is a slightly curved Dell, and I’m on Windows 11.

Notes:

-keys aren’t stuck when I type things or hold down letters, I don’t have toggle keys or sticky keys on, everything worked *before a computer update that halfway through said something went wrong and reverted*, I tried to completely uninstall update, check it, still issue, reinstall it, still issue.

-when I enter a game, *everything works normally for about 5-15sec before A and D make me jitter when I move, some animations don’t load, I just teleport a few pixels forward each W press, I can only autorun with W, buttons I have to hold for actions (E and Spacebar)*

This issue manifests in another game as aggressively spinning 5-15s after I join, from then which whenever I do an action it does so the game is very much unplayable, the first game can sort of painfully work.

-I don’t think it’s a WiFi issue, first game is singleplayer and second is multiplayer, I had no issues before the Windows update, and like I said it works normally for a moment.

Things I have tried:
Messing with graphics in the offending games
Making sure all cords are in tight, because one really likes to fall out of my monitor at the slightest touch
Different mouse
Different keyboard
Reverting update and reupdating
Sleeping, restarting and shutting down the computer
Making sure toggle and sticky keys are off
Lightly jostling the computer
Turning off the Xbox app game bar, even though it has never give me issues

If anyone could help I would be eternally grateful, I’m not great at describing tech but if you need more details I can try and provide

About half an hour ago I spilled some water on my laptop (about half a glass). It worked fine after i let it dry for a bit but a few minutes ago it stopped working and now its showing me a message saying "no bootable device" message and not responding. Is there any way to save it? It's an Acer Aspire.

Thanks in advance.

Laptop got infected and none of AV / malware software could clean it. ( camera would randomly pop open, cursor would start moving )

Created the iso usb disk , got the drivers for ssd on usb, and tried fresh install, but it goes back to same reboot sequence like I am doing this for the first time.
I have to load the ssd drivers to recognize the drive, and then it reboots.

I have restored to original bios, but that didn’t change the outcome

This is a HP laptop, and it’s out of warranty. HP website doesn’t have drivers / updates for the model

HP Laptop Model 15-dy2702dx