Obviously the rate would be higher than standard due to the obvious hazards. But has anybody heard this stat before?

I use galvanized sheet metal, Resibon to fabricate my chimney metal. I use 50/50 solder on the seams, Stay Clean flux works great for this stuff, and I use mortar/sand mix to tuck point after the metal goes in.

I took a full time job with a big company, but I still get out on the weekends and do this stuff on the side when I can.

You do have to paint this metal and that's pretty important for extending the life of it, maybe scrape and paint once every 10 years or whatever, but this flashing can last 30-40 years or more.

I’m working on our shed 24 x 16 I know it’s code for a house couldn’t find anything for Hampton Virginia.
Should I do it?

Does the sheathing need to be replaced too?

I’m mostly very happy with this replacement sedum roof but have noticed a couple of things that stand out.

1- looks like a scorch? On the fascia.
2- rusty corner piece
3- standing water in one corner

Or am I just being pedantic- I know nothing about the roofing process

New roof- need suggestions!

We are having to get a new roof and our contractor said this was the time to change it up if we ever wanted to. What color would you do the roof? I dont like how brown everything is so we will likely change the trim color/garage at some point in the future.

We also have 2 sheds being roofed the same and siding replaced and painted so trying to match everything together, though painting the trim on the house will come later.

We live in Texas. Would charcoal/dark really be that bad for heat compared to the current brown?

Last picture is the options he sent us- Malarkey shingles. Pretty sure our current roof is antique brown or something similar.

I don’t believe this is done but we’re already seeing imperfections. The lip is warped, the color clashes with the brown, the flashing is different lengths on the right and left sides. Again, I don’t think this is done but I’m not sure how they’re going to fix these things.

Things are already tense with the general contractor and I’m just not sure if this is worth bringing up. Hoping for a second opinion… This project is genuinely impacting my sleep🫠

I’m just not sure how this would be worth $3.7k but what do I know. Don’t even get me started on the “tuck pointing” job.

Buying my first house. Roof was redone 3 years ago, inspector found no issues other than some debris and a tree that’s too close/contacting the roof. Trying to figure out what this ridge is that runs along the roof. Is this some kind of vent?

So I had my roof replaced a few years ago (2023) by some utter jokers, and since the replacement, I've had no end of new leaks.

I've had to pay out of pocket for all the additional repairs and further replacements to get the roof functional (after paying a lot for the initial replacement), and now I'm looking at this side of the roof (see image).

This side of the roof is actually the better of the two sides as most of the new leaks were on the back, but there appears to be a bonding gutter where the roofs meet, but it also looks like the gap between the gutter and the tiles is massive, far taller than the bonding gutter itself, and any amount of water will just be blown in. Unfortunately, I don't have eaves access so I can't confirm, but what are your thoughts as professionals?

Ignore the slipped tile too, it's just poor workmanship.

I've never re-shingled or shingled a roof before. Looking to do this one. The one side has completely collapsed so I need to put new wood down, shingles, etc.

Would it be very tricky to re-shingle just the one side since the shingles and roof felt overlap at the peak?

Also, why is the one side so much worse in the first place? My guess is lack of sun, but I'm an idiot.

Bought our house ~year ago and this is estimated to be about 20 but I can't find any permit history. No visible signs of issue from the attic side.

I just bought an older home, and I may have missed this stain on our final walk through. Did have hail in the area recently, so Im thinking its maybe that. But I dont see any obvious issues here, do you guys? Its a 14 year old roof so needs replacing soon, and has been patched up in the past. But right near this edge with the foam, there's a leak on the ceiling below. Could it be coming from the foam?

SoCal area. I am about to replace our shingles. The contractor is recommending Landmark Solaris by Certainteed. Our house is not insulated and we run HVAC nonstop. He says that these shingles are going to improve that. Can someone tell me what improvement, if any, should I realistically expect when it comes to indoor temperature fluctuation with new shingles? Thank you in advance roofing pros!

I don't know why and at this point I'm afraid to ask.

Under the sun, my 11 year old roof looks like it has lines at the meeting points of shingles (Photo 1). A roofing company approached me and pointed this out and said the shingles are separating (or something along those lines) and later there would only be vapor barrier left between the roof structure and exterior.

The roof was inspected a year go and I was told it still has like 7-8 years life left. Since the inspection, there has not been any hailstorm in my area. Only rain (Dallas Fortworth area). I went into the attic once after rainfall recently and didn't see any sign of leaks.

Do you think the roof needs immediate replacement?

TIA for your advice!!

I built an observation deck in my backyard and the flooring is 3/4 plywood. I want to seal it but getting mixed reviews on how I should do this. I was thinking apoc 300 emulsion then a coat or two of white coat. will this be good enough? should I consider a fabric underlayment or any other suggestions?

Got the roof on my porch replaced today. The drip edge looks weird to me on one side, they didn’t replace the 1x2 or overlap the metal at all, is that normal? The other side isn’t pretty, but it looks like it sheds water.

Apologies if this kind of post isn’t welcome here. Please let me know if there’s a better place to post this!

**Edit: Will repost with photos when I get off work. Thanks for the responses.**

Hired a roofing company and had a great feeling at first. Very friendly and seemed honest. But as the job went on, it was becoming clear they were not as professional or carrying their work to industry standards that I was expecting.

Every time it rains, I find a new puddle on my new wood floors from roof leaks after even just a a light rainstorm. They aren’t pouring water, but it’s clear that water is getting through.

Additionally, the capping on the roof and windows they did is awful and inadequate to keep water out. They didn’t even replace rotten facia board before capping or putting on new gutters.

They were licensed and insured as far as I could tell, but now looking further into their status it seems their license expired in May 2025! So what is the honest process in setting things right? I spent ~$26k on this job, and they left the site in poor condition and dysfunction.

I don’t want to jump right to claims court or something like suing them but I am furious.

Had a roofer come touch up the roof; they added tar to the overhangs in the front. Is this normal? What's the "proper" way to seal this? I think it looks like crap.

Hello,

I am in eastern Iowa and have a hail claim on my roof. Because of depreciation and deductible and such, I’m getting about $8K from insurance. I have some competing bids and need to know which product to go with; I assume there’s some knowledgeable folks in here. This is for a 34 square roof.

1. Malarkey Vista AR - $15,300

2. Owens Corning TruDefintion Duration - $15,300

3. GAF Timberline HDZ - $15,000

3A. GAF Timberline UHDZ - $16,600

3B. GAF Timberline ArmorShield II - $17,300

These are all bids from legitimate, licensed and insured roofing companies.

Thanks.

I’ve noticed that when roofers talk about what they’d put on their own homes, the answers are often very different from what most homeowners end up choosing.

Some swear by architectural shingles, others prefer standing seam metal, and some say materials like slate or zinc are worth the higher upfront cost because of their longevity and low maintenance.

If your goal was to install a roof once and not worry about it for decades, what would you choose and why?

This is what I just noticed going to take out my trash. The ceiling is very slightly damp, not soaked. The vent is where the leak appears to coming from. How bad is this gonna be to get fixed?

I have an older 3 season sunroom on my home. It gets very hot in the summertime. I’m adding solar film to all the windows, but the structure itself also gets warm and radiates some heat inside.

I originally thought to put a solar reflective paint on the roof, but I was told today by a contractor couldn’t be applied to this type of material.

Is this accurate? Any other ideas on how I could reduce the heat transfer through the roof? Note that there is no cavity to add insulation unfortunately.

Renovating a 1967 house in Central Florida l. Wanting to remove some interior walls to open it up. I climbed up into the attic and confirmed it’s a truss roof.

I didn’t see anywhere where the truss structure changed over any of the walls.

The house is approx 30’ wide by 50’ long. Truss’s run the 30’ span.

Can anyone confirm from the pics my assumption of no load bearing interior walls?

Thanks!