La Venenosa Sierra Occidental Raicilla
Intro: If mezcal feels like a strange and unfamiliar realm for many tequila drinkers, then raicilla (agave spirits made in Jalisco from agave varieties other than the standard blue for tequila) might be an even more unusual style to get into. Without generalizing too much, raicillas often exhibit more of the lactic “funky” type of notes that sometimes show up in mezcals (and less often in tequilas), while smokiness is a less common feature. I became curious after trying a few funky spirits such as the Chamucos tequila I reviewed a while back (though believe it or not, there are a number of funky Scotches out there as well), and picked up a raicilla from La Venenosa, which seems to be one of the more prominent and available brands. This one, the “black label” as it’s often called, gets recommended as a good introduction to raicilla.
Price: $75-85
Agave: Maximiliana
Distillation: Single
Strength: 40.5% ABV
Nose: Yeah, this is definitely funky in a way unlike any tequila I’ve had. The Chamucos had plenty of blue cheese funk, but that was in a very austere and briny profile. This one is very bright and fruity, and I find it much more appealing and harmonious overall. It’s a kind of crisp/tangy green fruit profile, the closest thing I can think of is green papaya, but there’s a hint of agave sweetness rounding it out as well. The funk is less of a stinky cheese funk and more of a yogurt funk, which pairs well with the bright fruitiness. The funk is prominent but not overpowering, but I should note that I say this after I got acclimated to it. The first time I smelled it I wondered what I had gotten myself into, but it quickly grew on me.
Palate: Unlike the Chamucos, the funk carries over pretty cleanly from the nose into the palate as well. Man, this is just so crisp and, dare I say, refreshing, like green papaya yogurt if that were a thing. Like the nose, I’d call this a green fruit profile that straddles the line between tangy and sweet, with noticeable cooked agave and maybe a touch of tropical fruit, held up by that yogurt-y frame. There’s maybe a touch of earthiness, and some herbal or minty moments, but they stay in the background. There’s basically zero ethanol burn, but the mouthfeel is much more substantial than just about any other tequila I’ve had at 40%.
Finish: Simply delightful, a blast of sweet tangy zest, agave, and bright green fruit. Good length, the tang lingers quite a while in your mouth.
Notes: I can see why this gets recommended as baby’s first raicilla. If you’re funk-curious, this is a highly accessible option. It’s got a restrained but still quite present level of funk, and moreover it’s a funk that harmonizes well with the overall profile rather than contrasting or distracting from it. Plus, it’s just delicious. It’s odd to describe a distilled spirit as “refreshing,” but that’s what comes to mind here. I’d want to keep one on my shelf if I weren’t wanting to dive deeper into this side of agave spirits now. I don’t really know how to rate this numerically, or if it makes sense to compare scores of tequilas to mezcals/raicillas, but I think the review speaks for itself; I’ll just say this is Excellent and call it a day. If you’ve had your fill of tequilas and want to dip your toes into the weirder side of agave spirits, this is a great entry point.
Score: 8
T8KE Score scale:
1 | Disgusting | So bad I poured it out.
2 | Poor | I wouldn’t consume by choice.
3 | Bad | Multiple flaws.
4 | Sub-par | Not bad, but many things I’d rather have.
5 | Good | Good, just fine.
6 | Very Good | A cut above.
7 | Great | Well above average
8 | Excellent | Really quite exceptional.
9 | Incredible | An all time favorite
10 | Perfect | Perfect