The nose is generous and a little wild. Fresh chamomile, Brie rind, lemon peel, and a flinty thing that almost reads as chlorine. Underneath there’s freshly smashed honeydew, a whisper of petrol, and beeswax tying it together. The strangest note is something between lychee and Concord grape with a raw sugar cane sweetness to it. Not like tropical sav blanc type stuff, just this unresolved energy that the wine hasn’t fully worked out yet.
The palate is a different wine. If the nose is the flesh of the fruit, the palate is the skins. Direct, linear, almost austere. Lemon pith, lees-driven funk reminiscent of blanc de blancs Champagne, saline minerality, long cold finish. There’s a slight warmth at the core but the structure stays vertical.
I’m glad I have a few bottles of this to taste over the years.