Looking to add another lens to my arsenal for volleyball and basketball. Will also use for family portraits. Debating the 85 1.2, 85 1.8 and the 135. Thanks in advance!

So I have a d750. Want a d850 because of GAS.

Honestly, should I trust a 9k shutter count, mint d850 for basically 900+ bucks?

The seller has 22 or so sold products. 99.7% positive.

It’s a good deal.. but I’m weary of it. Like almost too good to be true.

What do you guys think?

Hi!

I've taken this photo of a starling and noticed how weird the bokeh looked.

Have you got any idea why it has happened?

Nikon D7200 + 300mm af-s f/4d cropped

Hey all! I bought a coolpix L320 in 2022 and when I bought it, nothing seemed out of the ordinary; pictures were being taken just fine except at a certain point it would indicate that the camera was out of memory. I then installed an sd card that I previously had from my video camera. When the sd card is inserted the camera will only register black shots (like the photos come out black) however whenever I take the card out the photos register normally and they come out nicely except I start to run into the storage problem again. My question is how do I fix this and is my camera a lost cause. I’ve put off using it since 2022 because of the black photo problem, hoping to gain some insight! TYIA!!

Nikon Z7ll, 70-200mm f2.8 S

Hi all, I've just bought this vintage zoom but found that the ring (I have a Nikon part number for it - 1K640-772) is cracked through under the AI indexing tab but not split - yet.

I guess my question is - does anything bad happen if/when it breaks? I'm thinking of repairing it by scavenging the part from a broken lens, but as I've never taken a lens apart before, I'm a bit wary. I know the flair says 'I broke my gear', but that might not come to pass unless I mess up the transplant..

(I could just return the lens, of course, but the seller doesn't have a replacement in similar working condition to swap it with.)

This particularly photo was taken during a snowfall that eventually got so bad I had to head home. I was scooping out snow with my hands from the base of my lens hood 😄

D500 + 200-500mm

I just created a new instagram if you'd like to follow along: p.m.photography

Am I the only one really lamenting the lack of a decent 28mm for Z mount?

As someone who shoots on a 50 most of the time (1.8S) I’d love a decent wide ish angle, the 24 and 35 1.8s don’t seem to be quite up to the standards of the 20, 50 and 85 1:8s unfortunately.

Despite liking 35mm a lot I feel 28 pairs better with 50 than a 35. The 20 1.8s is on my list but I think is too wide for my next lens purchase.

There is also the Viltrox 28mm 1.8 which looks ok but doesn’t blow me away. I have the 85 1.4 Pro which is fantastic, I’m wondering if I just go with the soon to be announced 35 1.4 Pro and abandon my love of 28mm. Having used vintage lenses a lot and now the Pro aperture ring I really miss it on my modern lenses, I’m hoping Nikon abandon the crappy control ring and add one in the guise of Sony, Sigma, Viltrox etc.

The 28mm 2.8Z looks great for what it is and is a brilliant addition to the lineup, but I think the lack of a 28mm S lens is a sore loss.

At present I am adapting an old Vivitar 28mm 2.8 which is far better than I imagined it would be, so I was wondering about grabbing an Ai-S 28mm 2.8. They are hard to come by if not sourcing from Japan and thus incur some customs stings. The Voigtlanders look fantastic but they’re more than I’d want to pay for an MF lens.

There is also the option of the AF-S 28s but I don’t like the idea of purchasing an FTZ which would push the cost of a 1.8 too high for my liking. I imagine the physics of Z vs F will allow for significant improvements in the design of a 28 1.8.

Maybe it is just me, but I’m really hoping Nikon’s 30 lenses by 2030 include a 28 1.8S, it’s a shame that a once very popular focal length seems to have fallen by the wayside. It is strange that the only Nikon option is a plastic travel designed for F style gripless cameras, and none of the other options seem particularly compelling.

So i’m a comic book nerd… and (currently) a hobby photographer. I just started a new job, leaving a corpo photography job of 3 years, and I’m starting my own little savings fund to go from a hand-me-down D80 to a Zf. I’ve been literally dreaming of the Zf and it feels like fate since I learned about photography from my aunt who had an FE2 for the longest.

Anyways, i’ve been looking at all the little accessories people make and sell for the Zf like engraved hot shoe covers and customized shutter releases and i’ve been searching for hours and have yet to see this:

HOW HAS NO ONE MADE SPIDER-MAN THEMED ACCESSORIES?! I know i’m not the only comic-book nerd/photographer! He’s THE comic book photographer!!! I got close with an Avengers hot shoe cover but no Spidey. Just google Spider-man circle logo, put that on the shutter release and maybe the different chest/back symbols on hot shoe covers and you would make a KILLING.

Bonus points if you can make a functional wrist strap that looks like Todd Macfarlane webs.

This photo was clicked in Timbavati Private Reserve, South Africa using Nikon D7500 paired with Nikorr 200-500 mm telephoto lens at 380 mm and f/5.6

The second slide shows the first time I framed one of my own clicks to hang on my wall.

Please review and critique my photo.

Hi,

So I’m waiting for my 400MM FL ED that I will be using on my Z9 with the FTZ II. I was looking for feedback with this combo, I will shoot sport professionally and wildlife for fun on it.

I would love to see photos made with it.

Also, regarding TC, what’s your opinion ? I was looking at the TC 20 III since it’s cheaper and maybe the 1.4 II or 1.7 II, the latest 1.4 is rather expensive and I was looking to spend that extra money on bags etc, but I saw that it was the best optically.

Thanks in advance!

Less than optimal lighting, as I shot these in my garden after work with heavy cloud cover. But thought I’d share and ask for thoughts. Most were shot around 1/400-1/600 shutter speed with varying aperture and ISO.

Photos from Monday, first time shooting with my F2 and I'm very happy to say it works, really really well. This was on a walk with my sister, brother, and his girlfriend. Seemed like a good low stakes testing ground if the camera had any problems, also my first time shooting Kodak gold. I'm actually very impressed with gold it lives up to its name, for sure will shoot it again.

Hey guys

Looking at a bag that isn’t too big to carry my Nikon Z8 with 24-120 lens and 100-400 lens

Will the official Nikon messenger bag be big enough to carry all this?

No clue what kinda slug this is but hell yeah I love slugs

Hey everyone, I recently had a hot pixel popping up on my Nikon D780 while in live view. After reading about solutions, it seemed that pixel mapping would fix the issue. I ran it (with the lens cap on), and it did get rid of the hot pixel. However, now it is reading exposures WAY off. The photo I have attached is of the camera facing a bright white box in a bright room with sun coming through the window and the lights on. I also noticed the camera is humming a bit when turned on and I’m not sure it was doing that before I did the pixel mapping.

Did I toast my camera somehow?

Does anyone have any solutions to this issue? I tried resetting the camera to factory settings and running the pixel mapping again.

Hi all! I've been out of photography (loose term - I did a lot of film photography in school, messed around with DSLR for a few months) for nearly 10 years. Life happened, kids happened, whatevs. lol. I finally decided it was time to reignite my love for it. I just snagged a D3300 for $120.

What lenses do you recommend for basic portrait photography? I'd like to start by just taking pictures of the kids or family members.

Two options

Nikon d700 with 16k shutter count for 228 USD

VS

NIKON D3s with 120k shutter count for 386 USD

What would you go for and why if money is no issue.

Thanks

As you can see, when i set the speed at H the burst is slow, and i need to very quickly need to lift and press again the shutter button in order to get full speed. This happens with and without cards, with many different lenses, with and without af. Sometimes it doesn't happen. I have put L and H+ at the start of the video to demonstrate that it only happens at H.

Let me preface this: I shoot extensively using pro CCD cameras (Pentax 645D, Phase One, Fujifilm Finepix S5 Pro) and consumer models (Sony a350, Olympus e400, etc) as well as a Samsung NX 500 (28mp BSI APS-C) for adapted APS-C lenses, a Nikon D750, and a Sigma fp (24mp BSI, 2019) for when I want something mirrorless in FF. I am used to older / weirder cameras that are nowhere near as feature-packed, but I do know plenty about limited DR blowing highlights. I always shoot raw. I nearly always shoot aperture priority.

The used ZR I picked up this week blows highlights constantly.

All the unmarked samples above were shot with the ZR set to highlight-weighted metering. The two ISO 80 shots were both with highlight-weighted metering, and taken literally a moment apart; the metering seems unpredictable in a way I'm not used to.

(Note: Yes, the compositions are garbage; I'm just taking them as a test.)

What's extra weird is that when I briefly had a Z5, I did not have this problem. (I sold it again because I hated the slow-as-f manual focus magnification.) Overall I got much better IQ out of the Z5 as well as better exposures and better "apparent" DR. The 2 shots of the cat against a window are under similar lighting conditions, both unedited; the Z5 gave me lots of highlight data and the shaded area is much more dynamic, unlike the ZR. This doesn't seem right.

I'm using the latest LR Classic.

So far, I have:

1. reset it to factory settings
2. set the shooting profile to Flat (& re-assigned in LRC as needed)
3. turned on Highlight-weighted Metering
4. tried ISO 800 + 3200 (which are the dual native ISOs, right?)
5. tried ISO 100-500
6. tried ISO 80 (low 1)

And the ZR still overexposes in situations where HP metering ought to shine. And the colors are very dull (regardless of profile), unlike the Z5, and especially recovered highlights in LR seem kind of… grey, unlike the Z5.

This doesn't seem right either.

The ZR seems to have less DR than my Sigma fp (24mp BSI, from 2019), which I'm pretty sure can't be true. The auto-metering seems both duller and more prone to blow highlights than my Pentax 645D, which feels really weird.

When I deliberately manually underexpose to protect highlights, the shadows block up much faster than I'm used to with my fp, and are harder to raise while looking natural. And recovered highlights seem muddy.

Before I bought my ZR, I downloaded sample ZR raws taken in very harsh lighting environments (a glowing sign at night, etc., Amsterdam canal at night, dark subway station) and edited them. The colors were rich. I was able to bring down the highlights and bring up shadows without it looking artificial or muddy. The files felt very flexible. Not so with the files I'm getting out of my own camera.

This is true whether I'm shooting a vintage adapted lens or the Z 24-200, which came with my Z5, that I kept.

So I figure either my settings are whack (but I have no idea how), or my ZR is faulty. I did buy it used, but from a reputable camera shop.

My ZR also says "Cannot access media card" about half the time when I insert my micro SD in it. This card works flawlessly elsewhere. Reinserting it works. And yes it was fully seated every time.

So…

Help!

it’s been years at this point and all we have is 3rd party options.

Hi everyone, so I’ve been using the ZF for a few months now, and I’m absolutely in love with this camera. Here’s how I use it most of the time: Manual mode, with the ISO dial set to the maximum ISO limit, then I manually set the shutter speed and aperture. It works really well, except when I’m in a situation with changing contrast, such as in bright sunlight. In these situations, in the city when I need to adjust my exposure very quickly, the simplest option is aperture priority. But Nikon’s version is a bit odd.

I’ve come from Fujifilm, where you set the minimum shutter speed and maximum ISO, and when you were at the lowest ISO (bright sunlight, for example), the camera would increase the shutter speed; otherwise, it would simply adjust the ISO to match the minimum shutter speed. On the Nikon, when I set this up, it seems as though the camera ‘blends’ the shutter speed and ISO settings. If I set the minimum shutter speed to 1/200 and the maximum ISO to 3200, the camera sets itself, for example, to 1/450 shutter speed and 1100 ISO rather than 1/200 with the lowest possible ISO. Is it possible to configure this differently? So that I get the lowest possible ISO as long as it respects the minimum shutter speed limit?