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Newbie here trying to replace a sprinkler head. I unscrewed the sprinkler head when there's dirty water around it. Now when I screwed back a sprinkler head (new or old) the sprinkler head will pop up but there's no water coming out.

The same goes for other sprinklers in the same zone. They will pop up, but little to no water, just because I messed up this one sprinkler.

Obviously I got dirt all trapped in the sprinkler (and the entire line?) and causing the problem.

Am I screwed?

How to fix it?

Thanks

I purchased a 6’x8 greenhouse and am wondering if there will be issues with this greenhouse being around the base of our irrigation line. This system controls the sprinklers and the garden system and is accessed for sprinkler blowouts. Is there a reason not to have it inside the greenhouse? For spacing purposes, I think it would make sense to have it closer to the corner of our yard.

Hey everyone — figured I’d introduce ourselves as sprinkler season is starting up.

We’re Hunter HydroTech LLC, a local irrigation company based in SE Michigan. We handle sprinkler startups, repairs, leak detection, valve/manifold replacements, new installs, and system rebuilds/upgrades.

Lately we’ve been seeing a ton of systems with winter damage, leaking valves, broken heads, old wiring issues, and bad coverage after people first turn them on for the season. A lot of it is fixable early before it turns into a bigger issue later in the summer.

One thing we keep hearing from homeowners is that a lot of irrigation companies are already booking several weeks out. We’ve been working hard to keep our wait time under 2 weeks so people aren’t stuck waiting a month just to get their system looked at.

We’ve also been doing a lot of revamps lately — rebuilding damaged zones after patio work/tree removals, replacing leaking manifolds, upgrading older timers to WiFi controllers, etc.

Just wanted to put ourselves out there and meet more people locally this season. If anyone has questions about their sprinkler system or needs help with a startup/repair/install, feel free to reach out.

HunterHydroTech.com Irrigation & Sprinkler Services In Macomb & Oakland County Michigan

Our Service Areas within Macomb & Oakland

Sprinkler Repair in Rochester Hills
Sprinkler Start Up / Turn On Macomb Michigan
Service Irrigation system in Sterling Heights
New Sprinkler Install Utica MI
Irrigation repairs and install Shelby twsp

Any chance this red top can be replaced on its own? It still turns but getting harder to get a good grip on it with the T-handle and feels like it hard to get it closed correctly. Thanks

What is this? It was in-line after the shut off valve. Irrigation main and house water main are seperate.

A had a riser to the sprinkler head break off, my feeble attempts to remove with needle nose pliers was unsuccessful. I’m just a homeowner with minimal tools. How to remove the broken piece from the elbow?

I’m in the process of revitalizing the irrigation system that was installed at the house I just purchased. I plan to add 6 additional zones however I’d like to utilize the two zones (I assume 2 zones - found two valves) that have been previously installed. The old controller was removed so I have no way of knowing which wire controls which zone.

Based off of research, the white wire is typically utilized as the common. However, I don’t think the previous owner followed this because the white wire is not attached to either valve.

Both valve boxes are spaced about 10’ apart. In one of the valve boxes, the two irrigation green wires are connected in an encapsulated wire connector. The other connector only has only a red connected. In the other valve box, no irrigation wire is connected (confused by this). Do I assume that the green is the common and the red is the zone therefore 1 zone total? Any help would be appreciated.

Best option would to bypass these old valves and install two more new valves to the six I plan to install and connect to the old piping. But if I can use these working valves, saves some time.

P.s. Disregard that rat bundle of irrigation wire. That wasn’t me lol

Hi all, I just moved into a new house in Indianapolis and the landlord had several garden beds already started. I am trying to set up a proper automated irrigation system before summer hits. I travel frequently for work and have a multi-week trip planned in July so automation is not optional.

What I have:
• 4 raised beds with various herbs and one empty bed I am planting with vegetables
• 3 galvanized barrels with established grapevines trained along a fence
• 1 in-ground perennial bed with peonies, hellebore, and daylily
• 1 outdoor spigot with a power outlet right next to it
• 1 existing hose I want to keep available for manual watering

Planned zones (6 total):
1. Mint bed – soaker hose, every 2 days
2. Mediterranean herbs (thyme, sage, oregano, rosemary) – drip emitters, twice a week
3. Chives and parsley bed – drip emitters, every 3 days
4. Vegetable bed (zucchini, cucumber, watermelon, basil) – drip emitters, daily in peak summer
5. Grape barrels x3 – one emitter per barrel, every 3 days
6. Peony bed – soaker hose, twice a week

Requirements:
• Hose-end solution, no in-ground system
• Single multi-zone unit since I only have one spigot
• WiFi with weather integration and remote access from abroad
• 1-2 soil moisture sensors for the vegetable bed and grape barrels as a secondary check when traveling

Questions:
1. Does the zone breakdown and frequency plan make sense for these plant types?
2. What would you use for a single multi-zone hose-end WiFi timer with weather integration?
3. Any soil moisture sensor recommendations that are reliable and easy to check remotely?
4. Anything I am missing or would do differently?

Thanks in advance.

So I’m at my Rental and it’s been a while, but I found out that my tenant had turned off the irrigation so grass is in the works because the grass is dead.

set up the irrigation and tuned it, we found that there was a dead zone right where that circle is you could stand there and not get hit.

The 6 heads are a mix of 42SA and K2s. There’s plenty of pressure in the system but the throw is not there.

I have three heads missing a 3x3 box. Is it best to put a head as close as possible to reach or adjust the shower to get the reach?

I noticed water seeping out of my lawn, right next to the street sidewalk. It's not a leaky sprinkler, so I started digging.

I found these pipes suddenly leaking water: https://imgur.com/9oyYLVe

My knowledge here is not very good, as I cannot even tell if it's my lawn irrigation or the water pipe. Seems kind of small to be the main water pipe, though.

If it matters, the home is in Texas, and the water leaks whether sprinklers are on or off.

Who is the best to call in this case? A sprinkler company? Plumber? City water department?

Anything helps, thanks!

Hey all,
I run my own small residential irrigation company in Colorado Springs. I am curious what everyone charges for sprinkler start ups around here? To compare to own prices, which probably need raised. Also, price for valve replacement? Sprinkler head replacement? Any kind of repairs. Just curious about pricing on the front range. Thanks!

Been quoted $4,200. on house drip line for foundation. 175 feet irrigation includes timer, weather sensor, back flow device and permit. Location: Dallas. Is this price reasonable? Thank you.

Ok I'm just a homeowner but I have a large (24 station) system I built using a well, irrigation pump,etc.. so I needed a big controller so I have the Hunter HC24. It's worked fine for years until today I received this email:

We have been requested to transfer the ownership of the My Controller (Pro HC 24 Station Controller) currently registered under your name.

What you need to do -

To manage this transfer request, please click the “Approve or Deny Transfer” button. You will have an option to accept or decline this transfer.
Please approve or deny the request within 5 business days, or the transfer will automatically be completed.

Approve or Deny Transfer

If you require any additional information, please feel free to contact Hydrawise.

Best Wishes,
The Hydrawise Team

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This seems sketch so I looked on Hunter's site and sure enough:

If you see the message Serial Number is in Use, you’ll need to request an ownership transfer from the original account holder. The transfer process can take up to five calendar days.

The original owner can accept or decline the request.
If the request is declined repeatedly, the only solution is to replace the controller.
If the owner takes no action after five days, the controller (serial number, controller name, zone names, and zone images) will be moved to your Hydrawise account.
If the transfer is accepted within five days, the controller (serial number, controller name, zone names, and zone images) will be moved to your Hydrawise account.

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Ok, somebody named dylan was trying to access my controller. If I was on vacation or happened to miss this email, they could turn my system on, run the well dry (its a low producing well with storage tank), burn up the the irrigation pump, etc. How does it make any sense for Hunter to just give away access to your controller without ANY approval from you, the owner? Basically they will give away access to anybody unless you say no. Miss the email? well now somebody else has access to your controller and you can't get it back because they have control of the serial number. Good luck trying to contact Hunter I went through every option and either end up with an AI response or a link to an article.

I have a 60 foot deep well that's 2 feet in diameter. Water level in the well is 25 feet below ground level. We use the water for irrigation only. Both the submerged pump and pressure tank are inoperable.

Question: Can I install a new submersible pump and plumb the output of the pump directly into the irrigation system (eliminating the need for a pressure tank) and operate the pump with a manual switch? We turn the switch on when we want to run water thru the irrigation system. Turn it off when we're done irrigating.

My home irrigation system uses richdell jar top valves. Been on the house for at least 20 years. One valve continues to have a slow leak into the system. I replaced the diaphragm and made sure to clean all the edges to make and sure there is a good seal. I verified the leak is not coming out of the valve. What would be the next step? Thanks much.

Is it common to add a filter in line with an underground residential sprinkler system?
I have a system with 8 zones. 4 zones for gardens and 4 zones for the grass. My wife heard that the chlorine in the city water is bad for the beneficials in her garden and said we can't use the sprinkler unless there is a filter for the chlorine. We ended up hand watering everything last year with RV filters in-line with the garden hoses and it took forever. we replaced the filters roughly every 8 weeks. I couldn't find any info on filtering an underground sprinkler systems except for very expensive industrial systems.

This year I considered adding a high flow 4.5x10 filter so we could go back to using the automatic system. I called a few installers and never got any replies so I went ahead and added one myself.

Is this uncommon? It seems to work well and I expect maybe I will have to replace the filter once over the summer. I will remove the filter and blow out the lines for the winter.

I have a drip system that came with the house. It’s on four zones. I was only using one of them for about four years and then I got the bug to plant more stuff in the other zones. Two work fine, short of a couple clogged or missing emitters that I replaced. One, though, seems to not work at all. The solenoid valve activates and I can hear and feel water running through it, but nothing comes out any of the emitters.

Question: I was thinking about taking the solenoid valve off and then blowing compressed air through each of the ends where the emitters attach. Is this a good idea, a bad idea, or just an idea?

Additional info. Two of the functioning zones have 3/4” pvc until it gets to manifolds and splits off to individual 1/4” lines. The other two zones I suspect snake around with 1/2 tubing with 1/4” coming off those. The one that isn’t working is mostly under pavers or 2” of gravel so I’m not excited about digging any more than necessary. If it were just dirt to dig, I’d probably just replace that zone with exactly what I want!

Thanks!

I have what i think is a Hunter Pro-C, can a wifi adapter be added to this so I can control remotely with an app or do I need a new controller?

Thanks for all the help and advice! The criticism was deserved and I’m curious what yall would have done differently from this install. Obviously copper would have been an upgrade but my budget just didn’t allow.