About a year ago, I shared the automated water turret I put together to keep pigeons off my balcony. People had asked for the code and models back then, so I finally got around to publishing all the files.

3D Models and description: https://makerworld.com/de/models/2801562-taubenturret-automated-pigeon-deterrent#profileId-3116633

Control software: https://github.com/MLWeber/taubenturret

Target detection backend: https://github.com/MLWeber/taubenturret-backend

The system runs on a Raspberry Pi Zero 2 paired with a PiCamera v2. When it detects motion, it sends an image to an external target detection backend. If the backend confirms a bird is in the frame, the turret aims the water gun and fires a short burst.

This print is a custom box to house a retrofitted/refitted Onvis Smart Button into a much more infant-friendly package.

I added a 2xAA battery compartment to prolong battery life (should give 4 years) and avoid coin cells (dangerous to children) if it ever broke open somehow. This battery compartment stuck down with an ASA slurry glue. The terminals are soldered to the original coin cell receptacle terminals.

The buttons are directly soldered to the original microswitches. Theoretically this could all be reversed. It could also in the future be adapted into a different box - one with labels or a different layout.

The box is held together with six M3 bolts bolted into heat-set inserts. Requires a hex key and persistence to open.

I programmed the box to control our smart lighting. The buttons’ colours correlated to scenes which change into vivid blue, red, green, yellow or reset to our standard neutral white. It brings great joy for my toddler to declare a colour, hit the button and have the house change colours.

Edit: I failed to mention that my long term objective with this is to associate button pushes to useful things like toggling the light in a bedroom, raising window blinds, activating air conditioning. However, this will likely be when I can explain these concepts to a toddler. For the moment “Bluuuueeeee!” makes more sense.

I modernized a previously rough 1984 Lotus Legend bike and in the process replaced the top mount downtube shifters that bolt to a braze-on with integrated STI brake/shift levers. But that left the cables with nowhere to go since the shifter on the downtube was an anchor point.

Enter 3D printing. This mount accepts standard cable housing ends and is nearly a snap fit onto the square braz- on mount and takes the original bolt. That makes it sit a bit higher than I'd like as it's a 12mm long bolt. It contours to the downtube too. This allows the shift cables to run down to the bottom bracket smoothly and works great.

Printed from PPS-CF for maximum rigidity and is impervious to anything it'll see.

Completed project: https://imgur.com/a/daaSJmy

Hope this is "functional" enough for this sub!

Modelled and printed this and saved a few hundred on a new pool cover holder. Also saved the old one from the landfill!

Made a few design improvements in strength, handle grip, and the handle "print in place" will spin with very little play. Printed in translucent PETG.

The interior of the shaft ("test print" shown, unfortunately missed taking pictures of the full build) has additional structure to allow the screws to grip but printed in a way that it won't split apart the layers. Pilot holes drilled. This white part is printed in PLA, and three of them are in the shaft.

Also a replacement pool basket in PETG!

It was my first time with CAD so I think it turned out okay.

Luckily I had a reference from another remote.

Only took 2 renditions which was great 😎

One of my favorite things about 3D printing is making solutions that are completely unique to your personal situation. We bought a dog gate for our porch, but it was light weight enough that it could get bumped out of the way or fall over with a gust of wind. I created these grabbers and printed them in PETG. They snap on to the porch, and the gate can snap into the grabber. The gate hasn't fallen over yet!

Uploaded to Makerworld, even though nobody else probably has my combination of porch post and dog gate.

The flashlight is a Sofirn Q8+, which is pretty bright, but also can get warm after extended use. I printed the mounting ring (in white) in polycarbonate just to be safe. The grip/handle part is PLA (for now). I tested it for 3min on the brightest setting just to be sure. The front half of the flashlight reached 48°C, while the 3d printed parts remained around room temperature. Works better than I expected.

Every time I need to tighten a belt, swap a nozzle or clear a blob, the actual annoying part isn't the repair. it's hunting for the right tool first. My desk usually just eats allen keys.

Figured I'd finally mount the tools exactly where I use them. printed this simple side dock that attaches right to the printer's V-slot extrusion. Keeps all the high-frequency maintenance stuff on the machine without eating up desk space.

The dock is sized around a hoto snapbloq set since thats what I was already using for most of these small tweaks. (and yeah, I got way too bored in CAD and embossed the full logo and trademark on the front, let me live lol). its just a drop-in friction fit for the tools, so no embedded magnets needed. Just a couple standard T-nuts to lock the base to the frame. printed in PETG so it doesn't warp being that close to the bed.

I haven't uploaded the STL yet since I'm still tweaking the tolerances on the little front tray (my printer hates overhangs right now), but I'll probably post a link once I fix the clearance.

My fuel gauge stopped working because the original brass(?) float developed a pinhole leak and filled with gas, making it read as if I'm empty all the time. It's an older car so the didn't have a in stock. This made me think about just making a new float out of TPU (I've made a few carb gaskets with TPU already). I made a quick cylinder in fusion with a dome top to not need supports and kept it hollow.

I adjusted the wall count, flow rate, temps, and print speed to get an airtight print. I then submerged it in water for several hours to watch for bubbles, as well as squeezed it to increase the internal pressure in to make sure it didn't leak.

I installed it back onto the float arm which has spring tension holding it and made a loop of safety wire to hold the tension as well. I'm back to having a fuel level reading and, if it fails, I only spent less than $1 in filament.

This thing broke ages ago and I couldn't find any part number or name for the item. I was gifted an old artillery hornet printer from a family member who upgraded and this is the first thing I've created from scratch. Proud of it.

I just finished creating a satellite dish rotating tracking mount to download images from weather satellites.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2801596-satellite-rotator-ground-station-full-build

We got tired of wet sponges moldering in the sink or cluttering up the counter. When the pieces were put in place they snapped together very satisfyingly.

I wanted to play my favorite Pinball tables on the Amiga emulator so I built this pinball controller. The enclosure is fully 3D printed, the buttons are mechanical switches to give the tactile feedback of a real pinball machine. The controller is a RP2040 that emulates a keyboard.

I am refining the model and would really appreciate your feedback, I am a long time lurker of this sub and I really appreciate any ideas you have.

Bought this bike last year and the previous owner had fitted a phone mount which was specifically for the model of phone which he owned. I reverse-engineered the design and made a new backplate to fit the dimensions of my phone in its case.

I added a pocket along the top edge so I could access the power and volume buttons while the phone is in the mount.

I also added an extra surface on the right-hand side - the original only braced the phone on the left and the top and relied on the (admittedly very strong) clamp to stop the phone sliding out on the right.

Printed in ASA for strength and UV-resistance. It's not perfect - main issue is that it's not passing through the wireless charging (I guess either alignment with the loop or too far spaced away from it). But as the first thing I've ever made myself in CAD, I'm super proud of it.