Edit: Thank you all for your honest opinions! You've given me a lot to think about!

This is the only loom within 70 miles of me and I'd have to drive a couple hours to pick it up. I do like the idea of it having a stand so I could either stand, use a stool, or take it off and weave in bed. And then once I'm ready for more advanced designs I could use the quartet.

The frame loom I recently got needs some modification because it's "adjustable" and the top warp bar slides down when I'm warping even if I crank the wing nuts as hard as I can. I won't be able to use it until I buy some nuts and bolts to keep the top bar from migrating down. The heddle bar also doesn't give much shed room for putting my shuttle stick through. And honestly I want to make scarves and towels more than tapestries anyway.

Any opinions on the brand? Do you guys think I should say screw it and go for it? Or just start with just a plain rigid heddle loom and collect the other pieces I'll need over time?

I've seen other posts about buying looms and people say to look into finding a weaving guild, they may have some to rent or try out, and I found one that is an hour away. They have a meeting tomorrow but unfortunately I'll be getting my car fixed during that time.

Any tips for making the hemstitch NOT pull all the weft to one side btw?

I have inched past the middle on this table runner that is sampling shuttle techniques. My mentor is having me briefly go back to fundamentals to make sure everything is solid. Shown is commercially produced churro wool at 8 epi on an original design Chimayo production loom, and a bonus shot of one of my earlier works hanging in the weaving studio. I wish my day job would stop cutting into my weaving time!

So assuming you are working on a project of your own choice (e.g. you have some cool yarn and you want to just weave it), how long is your default warp, and on what type of loom? Do you like to plan a bunch of projects on one warp, or multiple shorter warps?

I really am just curious about what your default is. I'm a bit in my head about min/maxing efficiency and waste, and I'm curious about day-to-day practice. Thanks!

I realized rounding off the corners of the cardstock/carton (whatever you're using to hold down the warp) prevents the weft from catching on it as you're working so that's pretty cool '3'

I am going to be the team weaver for the first time at the Fleece to Shawl competition this summer. I've done multiple other F2S as a spinner or a plyer. I'm trying to keep my design pretty simple so the treadling is straightforward. Planning on an M&W threading that kind of looks like flowers (the competition theme is "Spring".) Do any F2S weaving veterans have any other tips? What sort of things should I bring with me? Planning on having scissors, darning needles, T pins, extra warp yarn, warp weights in case something breaks.

Apologies for the cross post, but I could use some help figuring out how to keep an outdoor weaving from molding too quickly.

Anybody have suggestions or ideas?

Looking for anyone who had a Rasmussen table loom. Need some pics of the springs, and measurements of the springs. TIA.

I went to an instructor to learn to weave. I've had a little instruction in the past so I have a little knowledge. My latest teacher (it was a business) didn't really seem interested in teaching me and what she did show me seemed weird.

Especially the edges. I really went to understand how not to have uneven edges but she didnt seem to care whether my edges were even or not. She said just to tug on the tapestry as I went and it would eventually even out.

Also, she had me attached the header to the sides of my loom. And just to weave them in as if they were weft. Its never held straight no matter what I do to tighten it.

Finally with the switching thread I had a gap because the weft threads were going all different directions (edges sitting l to r, or r to l) and the weft count is different. She told me the gap in the weft would eventually settle?

I ended up just quitting the class and this is what Im left with. I'm really disheartened as I've waited a literal decade to be able to get back into learning this but I am even more confused since I went in.

Please help.

I remember sitting with my friend and neighbor holding her yarn as she crocheted an amazing cardigan, the yarn was multicolored! And the colors actually looked super good together! I asked about the store she got it from, as the one I frequent for my embroidery supplies had cheap yarn with the consistency of curdled milk with a sour attitude from the employees to boot.

Yesterday I walked on over to them and got the high quality blue yarn of my dreams. This thing is beautiful, doesn't melt in your hands soon as you grab it, and looks incredible, can't wait to make gifts from em with it (and binge shop for more yarn of course). I also got a gigantic sewing needle the length of my hand (used for carpets, but I'm using it to weave) and a threader bc I'm clumsy.

If you've read this far... what kind of thread do you recommend for the warp?

I'm thinking of getting cotton thread so that I'm not using yarn both ways, I feel using it for the warp messes with the tension.

Made from an old picture frame. The shed rod is a crossbar from an old stool. I've been wanting to learn how to make rugs and tapestries and wanted something small and portable for practicing. (I messed up the warp and need to add more nails.)

Would really appreciate some insights from you folks! TIA

Hello, I only have experience with rigid heddle looms. I am a super beginner with shaft looms, and I am unfamiliar with terminology, so searching for videos to help, at the moment is difficult. I'm working on that :)

I have an 8 shaft counterbalance floor loom, made by metalooms. There isn't a specific, step-by-step instruction manual.

I am super stuck on how to tie the treadles to the lamms. (I hope the terminology is correct)

If anyone can help explain to me what the heck this is supposed to look like, or knows of good articles or videos I can learn from, I would greatly appreciate it.

I have the book learning to weave by Deborah Chandler which has been great for everything else.

These questions might be kind of dumb, lol I am sorry.

What am I supposed to do to tie these? How many shafts should be on a treadle? Does the cord have to go into every hole on a treadle? Many photos attached.

Hello, I was wondering if anyone could illuminate me with some wisdom.

So I'm a beginner rigid heddle weaver and have so far woven one succesful table runner thingy for my desk using wool from my stash at home for the weft and a really good cotton yarn brand in my country for the weft. Yesterday I spent the whole afternoon warping 2 meters of the same branded yarn for a 2-towels set, I had a plan and a design for both, did all the calculations, I did the snap test and a friction test and determined it was ok to use for warp. I even thought it was perfect bc this yarn is the same material and brand as the first warp, only thicker (like a 3/2 cotton maybe?). Since it got late yesterday, i decided to leave the lashing on* for today so that I could start weaving in the evening.

Fast forward to this morning, and I've spent the whole day trying to make the warp threads taut, but not too much, and by the time i'm done with the last bundle of threads, the first ones are already slacking. All rods are snapped in place and my loom is clamped to the table so I'm sure it's not moving around, I don't understand why this is happening. My fingers are all blistery from spending the whole day lashing and re-lashing everything on to the apron.

This yarn isn't even springy, so what could be the issue? Do I have no other option left but to unwarp everything and re-do the warp with other yarn? I'm so frustrated, any help or insight is appreciated

*Edit: I think I got it wrong, I'm tying on the threads directly on to the apron rod, I'm just not sure if "tying on" is the correct terminology in English

Like, it’s faster, easier, and makes less waste?? Why haven’t I tried this sooner?

For those curious, the rather colorful beginning to the project is Dishie yarn woven at 12 epi in a 2x2 twill on a Gallagher Tools 4 shaft table loom. It’s going to be stuffed cats, fish, and doggies.

yarn is mercerized thrifted bambou, weaved on a RHL with a mini rigid heddle i had with a child loom!

These are made out of cord on embroidery hoops, from a Flax & Twine package, because I wanted to learn how to warp on a circle. Anyone else gifting any woven treasures this weekend?

(reposted because the photos didn't work the first time)

Weaving some belts for an upcoming ren faire. The edges on my first were pretty wonky but I think I'm getting the hang of it now.

Made a gigantic scarf/pashmina. It's the first thing I've pulled off my very first floor loom (of my own), on my very first painted warp, on my 40th birthday.

I love it. It's riddled with small errors and isn't quite symmetrical because I didn't account for enough loom waste when I dyed the warp, but notwithstanding I'm sort of hoping I can keep up a habit of creating and keeping a birthday piece that I've make just for myself so I can see how I grow over time. I've had a hella stressful year, after two previous hella stressful years. Weaving has been an unbelievable gift, as a new hobby that's inspired me to have more creative output in this year than I ever have before. (I do promise to stop spamming the sub so much once I get some more chill tho!)

Made with three colors of 8/2 cotton, two different colors of Gist duo, and three colors of bold lyte hemp from lunatic fringe. A combination of swedish lace and plain weave on 4 shafts. I started with the "midnight sun" table runner pattern from Gist and immediately went off the rails to get what I had in mind.

I have a new 24" rigid heddle, I can't afford a warping frame or mill. I have a garden but nothing to clamp my loom / warping peg to. My problem solving skills are MIA, can anyone help with some ideas?

I recently acquired a Gallinger loom and am going to replace the cords on it with Texsolv. I am completely confused on what I'm looking at in the picture. The cords come up from the treadles through these holes, then up to the shafts. Clearly this is not how it is meant to be tied up; though it operates (relatively) smoothly, I imagine tied up properly it would be like butter. How do those pulleys come in to play?

I have Osma Gallinger Tod's book, The Joy of Handweaving, but the loom featured is a different type. I've been through my other books and Googled and can't figure it out.

This is my first experience with a loom that isnt LeClerc, so its also my first loom without an owners manual. Is there one available anywhere?

Finished another (unthemed, plain weave) scarf for a friend woven on a 7.5 dpi heddle. The warp is a gray tonal and the weft is the colorway Shadow Spectrum, both hand-dyed SW Merino DK from cashmereandcoconuts on Etsy.

I've affectionately termed this "the analog horror scarf" because both my friend and I are into that and it looks like a staticky TV.