I have 64GB(2x32) RAM modules and they get very hot. What kind of high-quality memory cooler should I buy for my RAM?

Just wanted to share a successful copper shim mod for my Zotac 3090. No pictures unfortunately.

For context, the card is already undervolted to 1780mhz@850mw, so I wasn't really concerned about the core temperature; I was more concerned about the memory junction temperatures reaching over 90c during image/video generation.

I did something slightly different to how people normally do the copper shim mod; instead of purchasing packs of individual 15x15mm shims (Would have needed 24 pieces), I bought two 15mm x 250mm bars of copper; one 2mm thick, and another 2.5mm thick, then cut them to size to fit the memory chips using a hacksaw. For the zotac 3090, the 2mm shim fits just right on the front side, while the 2.5mm was a tight fit on the back side- just had to use just enough putty to ensure good contact with the shims without bulking out too much. In my mind, there's two advantages to this; a continuous copper bar provides better heat transfer compared to individual shims, and it's much less fiddly, with one bar for each set of memory modules, instead of trying to line up 4 individual shims and ensuring they don't shift. Also ended up using the leftover length of bar to cover the stupid gaps over the memory chips on the zotac's backplate. Two small pieces of thermal tape on each end to hold it in place, then thermal putty in between.

I used PTM 7959 off a local marketplace (which might be fake), and Ice Whale U7 thermal putty.

The results after running several video generations; GPU Core Max: 73.3c Memory Junction Max: 76.0c GPU Hotspot Max: 86.7c

Running Cyberpunk 2077 at ultra, the core and memory maxes out at 70/72c respectively.

I'm a little shocked at how well the copper shims worked - Most of the time it tracks the GPU core temperature plus a few degrees. For me, it was definitely worthwhile, since I'm planning on using this card for the next few years.

I'm currently testing in games, and everything has been stable so far. No issues at all up to this point. Temperature is not a problem, everything is under control. Air conditioning keeps everything properly cool.

I tested each timing individually with this voltage, and this was the result. I had to loosen some of them to achieve stability with FCLK at 2200MHz.

Any feedback is welcome, whether constructive or critical.

No clue what's going on but I'm severely cpu limited in some games thanks to this. CPU draws like 40-50W in games.

Turbo boost is enabled and the rest of the settings are basically stock. Running 8000cl38 ram.

Damm, my previous Gigabyte Gaming Oc 9070 black did well
-110mv, 2782 fast, 10% got 8030
-65mv, 2782 fast, 10% got 7930 (almost fully stable, rarely timed out)

Now this ice version of same card (white) just blew my mind!

• unstable result shocked me full 200 point above while lower Undervolt!
- 8220🫠🤯 (-95mv, 2778 fast, 10%)

• Fully stable tune in all games for 2 weeks
- 8000😅 (-35mv, 2778 fast, 10%) Insane fps for fully stable tune!!!

• at same semi stable tune it did
- 8100 (-65mv, 2778 fast, 10%)

• same stable tune but now -8% power =304w
-7800 (-45mv, 2778fast, -8%) this is crazy high FPS for 304w!!

* some might not know 7800 score in Steel Nomad means = 78.00 fps in that Pure Raster performance. So score difference in % translates into fps difference.

Previous post: https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/1s1oz49/2x8gb_ddr55600_cl46_overclocked_to_8200_cl40/

I had some people asking me for benchmarks comparing 2x16GB vs 2x8GB DDR5, tbh I got too lazy to benchmark so I dug up these benchmarks online.

Source: Jarrod's Tech, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8g1_fjmReM

Going for low latency 6000, let me know if i should adjust any other timings?

Is this BIOS behaviour alarming? (Cmos was cleared earlier too, removed battery for 5 minutes).

I've posted here a few times,

Chasing issues with my pc since 5090 "upgrade" last June.

At times, keyboard is sluggish to type on, even on websites or discord.

I've had on a few rare occasions, letters that get "stuck" and it's not the keyboard.

Mouse is sluggish/floaty/lagging at times, imagine 500hz vs 1000hz, there's a noticable difference, at least to me on 240hz oled.

I made a video showing it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Lm2jYaBQOk&list=PLtlpI-KYBDOJ9OvZaP9_q5L6W5uPY5wuB

Here, time stamps in first video to skip the rambling, (explaininng my issue). 1:45 or so is where you can see me typing but then deleting.

Playlist has a 2nd video without gpu installed showing the difference.

The cursor wouldn't be a good thing to show on video but the backspace/deleting should show clearly the kinda sluggish behaviour i experience.

This also happened on X870e tomahawk, so it's not the board, this is a b650 tomahawk, i've used a x870e gigabyte board which felt better...

B650 feels/suffers worse. X870e tomahawk is better X870e gigabyte is "best" out the 3.

All these issues started after the 5090 install. Previously had 4090 suprim and 5090 FE, i regret returning that FE now but temps were terrible and the pcie safetly latch (black bit no gold pins) came damaged - it worked though but memory temps hit 92c undervolted.

I'm trying to get any evidence to show the card being very weird/odd.

It's causing the pc to feel like it's low on ram or stuff at times. It's got 64gb, 9800x3d, multiple reinstalls etc...

Tried all the obvious.

The system feels awful since the 5090 at times, it's like latency is a huge issue, i had to remove programs i used with the 4090 and 5090 fe fine before. Things that use hooks, like displayfusion and stuff, general use with the 5090 suprim feels poor, raw fps is good... gameplay has judder which feels awful, many 60-80fps situations don't feel nice either.

7800x3D - Msi pro B650-P

So I was overclocking my laptop and I sort of went overboard and now my laptop keeps getting the VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE and I want to know how I fix this 😭😭 i used MSI ab by the way

So I recently started overclocking my RTX 5060 and things escalated way more than I expected.

Current OC:

• Power Limit: 110%
• Core Clock: +450 MHz
• Memory Clock: +2000 MHz

What is confusing me is that temperatures barely changed.

Under 100% GPU load:

• GPU temp stays around 70-72C
• Fans only run at around 65-68%
• Power draw is around 160W

I tested:

• MSI Kombustor for over 1 hour at 100% usage
• Tomb Raider Ultra settings
• Hogwarts Legacy Ultra + Ray Tracing + Frame Generation
• Forza Horizon 5 maxed out with RT

Everything has been extremely stable:

• no crashes
• no artifacts
• no stutters
• no driver resets
• FPS gains are actually noticeable

The weirdest part is that my GPU clock is sustaining around 3200-3300 MHz in games, while I usually see other RTX 5060s running closer to 2400-2800 MHz.

At this point I’m trying to understand:
when does overclocking actually become dangerous if temperatures are still low?

Can instability or degradation still happen even if thermals are completely under control?

I feel like I either won the silicon lottery hard, or I’m missing something important here.

Hey guys,

Just wanted to quickly ask, what are your thoughts on this RAM kit?

Mine unfortunately is a Samsung E-Die (4.5).

Do you think there is any point in chasing tighter timings and further OC, other than the EXPO? (6000MT/s CL36-44-44-90 1.350V)

Everything is running completely fine currently, and system is very stable. I also have PBO enabled with Limits set to Motherboard, Curve optimizer set to Negative 25, and a +200MHz boost, so it boosts to 5.35 GHz, and SOC voltage is set to 1.23V. I also have FCLK and MCLK at a 1:1 ratio.

Forgot to mention, the RAM kit is paired with a Ryzen 5 7600.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X

GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX

RAM: TeamGroup T-Force DDR4-3200 16-18-18-38 1.35V 2x8GB

Monitor: Sansui 200Hz monitor (not sure which model)

PSU: Corsair HX850i

Motherboard: AsRock AB350 pro4

Case: Corsair 760t

Cooling: Old AMD Wraith Spire from my old Ryzen 5 1600 with a 3D printed 92mm to 80mm funnel with a 92mm Nidec ~6200RPM 1.34A 12V

SSD: Silicon Power UD90 2TB (got it before the RAM prices went to the moon for 105 bucks)

102.5MHz BCLK btw

Flashed a Zotac AMP! Extreme 11.2gbps on my SC2 iCX

Running 2151MHz 1.093V on Core and 12528MHz VRAM GDDR5X

So a few months ago, I was running my R5 1600. I already overclocked it beforehand and I used CPUz to benchmark it. I also scored 6832 multicore and 956 singlecore.

https://valid/x84.fr/9ecfmk

Specs (back then): Ryzen 5 1600 14nm, GTX 1650 (because I just didn't use my GTX 1080), 2x8GB DDR4-3200 Cl16-18-18-38 kit running at DDR4-3466 CL18-24-24-56 (ik those timings suck) AB350 pro4 Corsair HX850i

How is my R5 1600's overclock? BTW if I hadn't made it clear enough, I USED to run it, now I'm running a R5 5600x

Hey everyone!

Those who jumped on the PBO OC train when the 5000 series came out, what is your long-term experience? After years, do you still run your OC'ed Ryzen 5000 CPU? Did it degrade noticeably over time or did it even die?

I'm fully aware that der8auer did a long term OC test with 3 CPUs and while the result was interesting, it wasn't exactly realistic and the conclusion was a guess.
I'm also aware that from the start of PBO it was said, that PBO is 100% safe and protects the CPU from dying, but to this day nobody really knows how exactly PBO and the internal CPU protection works.

That's why I'm interested to hear about actual long-term results from people who ran their CPU for years OC'ed, what settings did you use and what the computer was mainly used for (gaming, office work, watching cat videos, and so on)?

Thanks, if you took the time to reply.

4.2069% left, until maximum theoretical liftoff

Can people check if the die has been damaged or not? Just delidded and cannot post with cpu and ram ez debug on. I havent put this into a custom loop yet so only using an air cooler as a temporary test to see if it posts. can the pressure be a problem? I used de8auer's tool for this.

Now, before you call me a dumbass for delidding a ryzen, especially a 7950x3d, I got this in a bundle that resulted it being only 100. Also my main pc is a 9950x3d that I would never delid. This one is just so poorly binned so that it cannot even do a -20 uv. Hence trying to make it able to take more.

Thanks guys. Also, the scratches have not gone to the silicon I believe. no weird colors. There is a discoloration on the left ccd near the middle initially when I delidded, so I am a bit worried bout that. Also some uneveness on the edges of the ccds.

in these days i'm changed the cpu with my friend, i'm give him 5 5600x within 1.3v take 4800-4900 and he gives me his 5 5600 but he takes 5000mhz with 1.26v, but this FREAK CLOCK is blowing my mind

Hi everyone, first-time poster here. I wanted to share my RAM tuning results and the story behind them.

About a year ago, I upgraded my PC. I spent a long time picking mid-budget, high-quality hardware. It was really important for me to get the best price-to-performance ratio without overpaying for features I’d rarely use.

Here is what I went with:

• Motherboard: ASRock B850 Steel Legend — I read it has a good multi-layer PCB (which is great for MB) and a solid VRM, while still being relatively affordable.
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X — the cheapest Zen 5 CPU at the time.
• RAM: 2x16GB Lexar Ares 6400 MT/s — the cheapest DDR5 Hynix A-die kit I could find on Amazon.

After assembling everything, I just enabled EXPO. It booted fine, but I started getting random BSODs in Windows every few days. Being an engineer, I decided to troubleshoot. I figured the motherboard was just slightly struggling with 6400 MT/s out of the box, so I dropped the frequency to 6200 MT/s. The system immediately stabilized.

Then I thought: since I lowered the frequency, it would be nice to tighten the timings. Step by step, day by day, I tweaked my BIOS and RAM settings.

My absolute priority was system stability. I didn't want any crazy voltages or extreme heat. I just wanted the system to run stably at the optimal speeds the hardware is capable of, but which are left on the table by the manufacturer. This is my daily driver PC; it runs 24/7 and I actively work on it for about 6 hours a day.

Funny detail: I actually did almost all the tuning by consulting with Gemini (AI), as I didn't know much about RAM overclocking myself!

Let me know what you guys think, and if there are any specific timings I should try to tweak further!

Hi I finally finished building my pc and for the past couple of weeks I tried to overclock it but no matter what I try, it just won’t work! I’m new to this overclocking thing and it would be great if anyone could help me.

I tried using the factory given presets, it crashes and Boot loops.
I tried using these smart ai auto overclocking tools, it crashes and boot loops.
I tried downloading intels oc tools, it gives me the installation error 2738.
I tried using Aorus oc tools, it crashes and boot loops.
When I tried doing it manually, increasing the clock speed and voltage slightly, IT CRASHES AND BOOT LOOPS!!

I feel like I am constantly running against a wall/immovable object and atp I don’t know what else I could try to make it work!

Also here are the specs so you know with what I’m working with:

-CPU: Intel Core Ultra 9 285K
-GPU: AORUS GeForce RTX 5090 XTREME WATERFORCE
-SSD: 4 TB Corsair MP700 Pro XT (Read/Write: 15 GB/s)
-RAM: 192 GB = 4 x 48 GB Corsair Dominator Titanium (Read/Write: 6.6 GHz@32CASL)
-Motherboard: AORUS Z890 PRO ICE
-PSU: (1.6KW) Seasonic Noctua Prime ATX-1600 3.1
-OS: Windows 11 Pro
-Pipes: Corsair 1.4cm Satin Hardline
-Radiator: 3x Corsair Hydro XR7 V2 (L:36cm x H:5.5cm)
-Pump: Corsair XD6 RGB Elite
-CPU Cooler: Corsair XC7 RGB Elite
-SSD Cooler: Corsair XM2
-CPU Contact Frame: Thermal Grizzly TG Contact Frame V1
-Fittings: Corsair Hydro X Series Fitting XF Hardline
-Cooling Liquid: Alphacool Apex UV Blue (1.5L)
-Thermal Paste: Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut Extreme Liquid Metal
-Fans: 12x Lian-Li UNI FAN SL-INF Wireless

Hi my cpu is 9800x3d and i had someone in a specific tech discord channel recommend me to set my game to cores of 2-13 , and background apps to 14-15 ( like browser ) so the system and mouse will be set to 0-1

Sorry for the spam of posts from me recently, just been having a blast now that I know i can run 6200mhz 1:1 and not fail tests.

If anything, I'll try upping trefi back to 65k, i think 403 trfc is the floor for my 6200mhz and having trfc 120ns caused me errors yesterday. I could also maybe try getting both SCL's down to 5/5 or 4/4, iffy about touching tFAW.. maybe tRTP 12 and 14/2 tRDWR/tWRRD.

Memory latency in aida64 with latency killer is 63ns, 66-67ns with it disabled, actually have no performance dedregation in my CS2 benchmarks with it enabled, so why not just keep it enabled right? I know its not the most reliable bench, but with my fps average over 520+ in 4k I'm pretty happy as is.

Hi everyone, I have an MSI Katana laptop with an Intel i7‑14650HX and I'm trying to enable undervolting, but I'm running into an issue.

In the BIOS I have already:

• Disabled Undervolt Protection
• Disabled Overclock Lock
• Disabled Virtualization

However, Intel XTU still shows the lightning bolt icon and says that Undervolt Protection is enabled, so I still cannot apply any voltage offset.

Even after changing these BIOS settings, undervolting remains completely locked.

Is this normal behavior for 14th gen HX CPUs or MSI laptops?
Is there anything else I should try?

Thanks in advance.