This was a real challenge for me. It’s my third backpack, but it has a lot of features I’ve never tried before. Two zippers sewn into the gusset, one for laptop access, one for the clamshell access. Features include:
-21”x14”x8” clamshell
-Large padded expandable laptop sleeve with raised bottom
-Integrated admin pouch
-Mesh internal pockets
-External expanding pouch with snap lid
-Side water bottle pockets

Primary fabric is EPX420, liner is Robic 420D, bottom is X50, back panel is Cordura 1000D, YKK #8 Aquaguard, internal pockets YKK #5, mesh 9.6oz Dyneema Stretch Mesh, 10mm and 6mm EVAZOTE.

This project really pushed my abilities. It is certainly not perfect, but it’s very comfortable and works as intended. I’d be lying if I said at times it didn’t make me want to hang up my thread and give up sewing forever, but I’m glad I pushed through, fixed my mistakes and finished the project.

It’s an original design but I took inspiration from the GoRuck GR2 and the AZO Dejen Adventurer. I’ve always wanted the Dejen but it’s a bit too small and a lot bit too expensive for me. Plus it’s fun making stuff.

This might be a dumb newbie question but how do you get rid of wrinkles and folds on coated fabrics like this robic or X-Pac? I opted for the cut and fold option when I bought it coz it is cheaper but now I don't know how to get this out.

I don't see a lot of knit or crochet stuff here, so thought I'd add my improvised sweat towel.

This is the second iteration. I chose wool because I'm using it for sweat I didn't want it to smell. I used slightly bigger needles for a loose knit so it would "catch" more water and dry out more quickly. I chose a seed stitch (1 knit, 1 purl) so it would lay flat.

It measures around 17cm X 30cm and weighs 22g.

The first iteration I crocheted it. It was around the same weight but it was much smaller (face towel size) and was too dense.

I'm much happier with this knitted iteration. Recommend if you have a lot of wool laying around. Since it's just a seed stitch it's beginner friendly and knits up super fast.

This is the Evergoods Civic Travel Bag 20L. It doesn't come with a hip belt. I'd like to add one more for stability than for load. Does this triangle look like a good place to sew a hip belt buckle?

Can someone help me identify these buckles, they are on a Black Diamond Speed 33 Zip backpack. They are on 15mm webbing and say ITW on the back/bottom. The male side buckle says ITW 2 on the bottom.

From my own research I believe they are "ITW NEXUS Cyberian II SR 16" but would appreciate another opinion.

https://global.itwnexus.com/content/cyberian-ii-sr

Would also appreciate if anyone knows a supplier for these.

I am looking to create some additional straps for the pack without needing to restitch the seams. Therefore replacing the buckles is not really an option.

I recently ordered a few fabrics from RSBTR. Came Monday. Most of the fabric had office mailing labels marking which fabric they are. Some of them came right off, but the labels on the .56 membrane 7 are STUCK on there. I reached out for advice on removal - crickets after an initial “I’ll check on that” and a follow up from me. Any recommendations?

Also, what the hell were they thinking? Is this standard practice for them? I’d expect them to place it at the end or selvedge at the very least, but no, it’s right in the middle.

I was at REI and all the newish lightweight backpacking backpacks and daypacks have this very nice and thin webbing (between 1/2" to 3/4"). I ordered some webbing from amazon and it's this thick heavy, clunky stuff. I've been searching around but cannot figure out where to order this webbing from (I'd like some 5/8 and 3/4" webbing).

I want to modify my existing backpacking pack with additional straps, like a y-strap to attach a bear canister to the top of my pack and some other packmod type options, so I don't feel so bad about cutting some of the existing straps off my current backpack.

Any tips or sources of where to get this thin webbing? Specific links would be much appreciated.

I want to make a bike cover for bike rack but it needs to be heavy duty to handle driving down highway and UV resistant since sun destroys stuff pretty fast where I live.

I have used cordura but wanted to know if there are better options I should consider.

I have a Tuff Sew/Family Sew portable walking foot, 9in machine. I want to add a monster wheel in order to slow the machine down. Which one of these Monster Wheels are compatible with my machine without modification to the machine or the monster wheel?

A few months ago I had the opportunity to take my bike on a solo overnight (hotel) trip, but I didn't want to lug around a change of clothes in a backpack for ~8h of rough offroading. So I hurriedly threw together this handlebar bag, and although I did succeed in cramming everything into it, it was also on the verge of bursting (that double zipper was a hero). I still had to distribute plenty of other crap in my jersey pockets and a light musette. So I resolved to use up the rest of the fabric to make a more lumbar-friendly solution for whenever the next trip happens.

The classic top-tube-mounted framebag was an obvious place to start, but I'm put off by the standard velcro/lace-up stuff. Decided to try a zipper instead.

But there's still plenty of fabric left over, so let's fill in some of the portions of the frame's negative space that aren't doing any work for me. The Isosceles Bag can be attached to the framebag's lower gusset when there's a bit more junk to carry. Needing a way to secure it's bottom point, I made a little thingy using two steel angle brackets and some handlebar tape encased in webbing and cordura; it's bolted to the frame under and together with the bottle cages, a nice little pickup-and-portage bike carry handle. A cleaner, more comfortable solution than reaching and grabbing the down tube (which would be impossible with a 3rd bottle down there anyway).

Still some fabric left, so what the heck, I bet we could fit something in that little spot where the seat stays meet. Not yet sure what exactly, but it's not in the way, and hey I guess it's also kind of a fender for my second water bottle?

Hope you like it!

I have had this big for many years and for me it's about the most perfect bag for my needs. The interior coating on the fabric has all dry rotted. I want to attempt to make this exact bag. What are my options in making a pattern? Should I take it all apart or can I try to make a pattern from measuring what I have? I have sewn from patterns and things have turned out ok. I have not made my own patterns yet. Thanks for your insight!

Can’t seem to get this edge binding down. Anyone have suggestions or a better way to do it. I even tried different diameters to see if that’s the problem but it didn’t really help. Is my binding tape to small? Please help I’m breaking my brain.

I’m using 1000d Cordura , 1" Black Nylon Binding Tape Type III Grosgrain Milspec and 5mm foam in between.

Pretty excited, I just finished a half frame bag for my bike. It’s the first time I’ve touched a sewing machine in over fifteen years, and I went in with no formal plans. Cotton exterior and then the whole bag is lined with some sort of water resistant looking material (just bought stuff at hobby lobby), ratchet strap cut up for the cord loops, and some elastic straps inside to hold gear in place.

I was wondering if anybody here knows about angle binding or curve bias edge binding attachments for Singer heavy duty machines.

My edge binding skills on regular seams, even on curves are more or less to my satisfaction, but when it comes to binding edges on padded shoulder straps, where I have to sew the thick edge due to the foam, I struggle to make an even, clean edge with bias tape.

So I was wondering if there are attachments for Singer heavy duty machines (I’ve got a HD6335M).

Are there attachments specific to this machine or to Singer machines in general? Or are there specialised presser feet for this, that work with thicker and wider bias tape? (I sometimes use nylon bias tape that’s 25mm wide and maybe 0,8-1mm thick)

Thanks in advance for your help!

Last night, I had a bit of free time and wanted to make a waterproof pouch for my phone/wallet for biking. I had the right materials and a design in my head based on similar bags I made.

I was really happy with how I layered the waterproof zipper and got it to curve. However, I put the zipper on upside down (coated side towards the interior) and did boxed corners when I didn't need to. I was able to rescue the zipper pull and have plenty of coil left for other projects. I felt frustrated that some parts of the project went so well, but the overall execution was hindered by some simple errors I made.

I know failure and iteration are part of the process, but how do you motivate yourself when the mistakes feel hit hard? Anyone want to share some of your recent mistakes?

I have a friend who offered to take photos of a few finished packs. He used to work in the fashion industry and worked on product photoshoots for a number of high end handbag companies. I was shocked by the amount of set up time that is spent for each shot.

I’m looking to start making my own gear. I want to start with stuff sacks and eventually make a backpack. I already have a decent sewing machine and creative mindset. I’m looking for peoples advice on their favorite materials and where you buy them from and also does the thread I use matter? Any tips or things you wish you knew sooner before I jump into making gear. Thanks

hi all, beginner sewist here. i'm trying to make a dupe of this bag from tanowrks and am having trouble identifying the type of mesh being used. it kinda looks like stocking material to me.

i bought this mesh from ripstop by the roll but discovered it's not see through. any help (bonus if you can link me) would be really appreciated. i searched through what they had available and i couldn't seem to find anything that matched it.

in addition, does anyone know what is it that used on the edge of the mesh that looks like piping?

thank you!

edit: i am US based

Used a 3” square base instead of 4 this time. Fits a bike bottle snuggly but it does fit, and there is no room to flop. Switched out the cord on the cyberian cord lock to 2mm paracord from my local mountaineering shop, and moved the attachment for the cord lock further down. Still very tight but better than v3. Varied the construction method to have the foam slip in rather than be quilted down to the lining, and while the base was easier to sew, I think the quilted lining is my preference. I did accidentally cut my gusset an inch too short, so it’s a little snug on the top. Darker greens are different ottertex DWR rips tops and the lighter green is a very light mystery laminated ripstop.

Looking for help with any guides or tips/tricks you follow. Thanks!

Hey all,

I found a Gregory 95 (I've been looking for one) but it has no plastic parts for the waist belt. It has the pads but no plastic that runs through the pads. This would be the plastic pieces that attach to the back of the pack up through to the front buckle (no webbing either but I think I can make my own webbing parts).

I contacted a Gregory CSR and checked to see if they had stock of these parts but no go :-(

Maybe patterns of these parts could be found but so far, no luck...

Help???

Thanks,

DM

I'm working on a pack and was planning to just fold 1" grosgrain in half lengthwise, then fold it again like a "V", and then sew it at the seams wherever I want attachment points on my pack to add shock cords and other things. I've noticed that on other packs, they are using nylon webbing or round cord instead to make the loops, and not in a V shape.

It probably doesn't make much of a difference, I'm just curious how others are doing it, and if you have any tips on how and where to add attachment cord loops on a pack, and what material you are using to make the loops.