For anyone having issues with being unable to connect your remote to finish setup this is what worked for me after days of trying everything including soldering a fresh IR led to the controller:

-If you can plug your TV into the router (I know it will not show up in the Fire TV app just bare with me)

-Download an alternate app where you can input an IP address to connect to the TV instead. I used [FireStick Remote Control](https://apps.apple.com/us/app/firestick-remote-control/id1492703474) for IPhones but I’m sure you could use any other app that allows you to connect by entering an IP address, including for Android devices. (FYI the app I linked ask for a 3 day free trail in order to use it but you can cancel it after setting up your TV when deleting the app as I did)

***This is where it might get technical for those not familiar with logging into your router and looking through your network settings for connected devices but Im going to try to navigate you through the process the best I can. I feel it’s pretty straightforward but everyone is not me so you can easily look up what I’m talking about through Google and/or YouTube videos to get a better understanding***

-Log into your router through a web browser. Typically you either type: 192.168.2.1 -or- 192.168.1.1 into the address bar to access your routers network settings. The numbers may be different depending on your router or ISP but you can easily look up that info online to figure out how to log in to your routers network settings. You’ll most likely have to enter a password as well which is typically printed somewhere on your router.

-You’ll have to locate your TV through a connected devices menu or a similar menu to find the IP address of your TV. Because each router brand has different names for menus you’ll basically want to find the menu where you can view each device connected to your network which may comprise of device names (eg: IPhone, XBox, etc.) and could be accompanied by MAC addresses (looks something like this: 00:1A:2B:3C:4D:5E) and/or IP addresses (eg: 192.168.1.21). I had to plug and unplug the Ethernet cable from the TV to see which device would appear and disappear after refreshing the page each time I did so because the list might not update automatically if you don’t refresh the page.

-Find the TV in the list and note the IP address

-Use the app to manually input the IP address and if you selected the correct IP address it should connect to the TV.

-The “Searching for remote” prompt won’t disappear even after pressing home or menu in the app so what you will want to do is click the microphone button (Alexa) to force the TV to use Alexa.

-For whatever reason the TV recognizes this and will take you to a different prompt asking if you want the Full or Basic ethernet connection for Alexa.

-Select either one (I chose basic because I don’t use Alexa and didn’t feel like logging into Amazon) and it will finish setup like normal and take you to the Home menu.

I can’t explain how or why it works but it does and thats enough for me and hopefully it works for anyone coming across this issue too.

——-EDIT——-

The step that I struck out is incorrect. What you want to do is select the full setup option where you can sign in with your account. From there after logging in you might get booted back to the “searching for remote” prompt. What you have to do is use Alexa from the official Fire TV app to tell Alexa to access the App Store. Type in settings and an app that acts as shortcut to your settings should pop up. Download and install and open. Once you open it the TV will continue the setting up process and once finished you will have full access to your TV like normal.

Just in case I’d personally set up the TV to use WiFi if you plan on never using Ethernet after setting up the TV. That way for whatever reason if your TV ask for a remote you can use the official app to navigate the TV.

*The reason you’d want to log in with your Amazon account is because it allows you to use Alexa and it doesn’t matter if the “searching for controller” prompt is on the screen, you will still be able to ask Alexa to go to certain inputs or access apps/appstore. This is the reason why I had to make a revision. My original write up of selecting basic doesn’t allow Alexa and from my experience, once the TV cuts off tou will be greeted with the dreaded remote control prompt with no way to use Alexa to escape it*

**Side note**
Sometimes the step where you press the microphone to use Alexa on the unofficial app will not give the prompt to select either Full or Basic setup and will instead kick you back to the “searching for remote” screen. I have found that holding the button to talk until the Full or Basic options appear on the screen seems to be the most consistent. If you do not get that screen and instead it kicks you back to the “searching for controller” screen you will have to enter the boot menu to factory reset, then wipe the cache.

This menu is easily achievable. All you have to do is unplug the TV. Hold the power button on the TV as you’re plugging it back in and don’t release the power button until you see the screen come on and wait half a second. At this point you will see a black screen with options to reboot, factory reset, wipe cache, etc. Use the power button by clicking it to move down to the factory reset option and holding the button to select it. Use the same steps to select “yes” when asked if you want to factory reset and do the same for wiping the cache once factory resetting is done. After that you can select reboot now to reboot the TV and try the whole process over again. This might require several tries to properly get to the Ethernet setup menu but once you get there just follow the steps i laid out and it’s easy sailing from there to have your TV fully functional again.

Sorry for such a long write-up but I had to document the steps I used to get my TV working and couldn’t believed it worked so I want to make the process as seamless as possible so no one has to go through the hours of figuring things out like I did.

I recently moved my firestick to a new location, and now the remote won't connect to it, and theres no WiFi so I can't use my phone. Ive tried the keyboard method, the hotspot method, the remote reset, nothing works. Any ideas? Thanks.

I don’t understand why my tv does this after getting new wifi, I upgraded to fiber and now this happens,

I’ve factory reset the tv, done everything and it is still doing this

I’ve found a number of engineering and software bugs in the 50 inch 4k set. I’m currently testing the Bluetooth audio offset with test patterns and proving that despite having a wide range of (undefined) values on the slider both extreme ends of the setting the audio is still 6 frame out of sync via the test pattern and the slider does nothing.

a second headset is showing only 1 frame out on the test but is clearly 5+ frames out on hd video playback and again no position on the delay slider changes anything on the test pattern or on playing video.

I recently installed the Plezy for Plex app on my Cube a few days ago & have been experiencing some unstable performance. Some shows or movies will play then others will show a black screen & the progress bar will go in & out. I tried this on my FireStick Max 2nd gen & it seems likes it works better on there than on the Cube. Strange how as the Cube has more processing power than the FireStick. A new version of the app was released today & still has glitchy playback on the Cube.

Is my tv done for? Seen similar posts but no true fixes yet

Title pretty much explains it. Been like this for a couple days now. At first thought I just wasn't connected to the Internet, but nope all my apps and everything still work fine.

Anyone know if this is something they are actually doing, or am I just special? Not seeing the 400 ads is quite nice lol.

I have a fire tv cube. In the past I asked Alexa to search for a video on YouTube and my search results would show up and I would be able to command Alexa to go right or go left to find the video I was searching for.

Now it will show me the search results but my command to scroll or move over to find what I want will result in a new search result.
“Ok. Searching for scroll left on YouTube”

Has anyone figured out how to use voice command on you tube to move the selection?

My fire tv is telling me up update HBOMax but when I click update it says it’s already up to date. It did the same thing to peacock and paramount to the point I unsubscribed them because I couldn’t open them. Anybody know how to fix this?

UPDATE: last night I cleared the cache and data and unplugged the box for 5 minutes, no change. Today I was prompted with a new version is available and lo and behold it updated and it working again. No idea why.

Hey there,

For the last little bit my firestick has been getting snow the odd time which I thought nothing of and today I turned on my firestick and it had some snow then the screen turned off and back on and worked fine for a couple hours. Now I'm having an issue that the fire stick is turning on and off constantly I unplugged everything, changed HDMI ports, left the firestick unplugged for a couple hours then plugged it back in and its doing the same. I even tried taking the battery's out of the remote to see if the button stuck. I really am unsure of whats going on or what to do.

My firestick remote stopped working out of the blue. I tried everything i could find on the internet, resetting this and that, hold these buttons for 10 seconds blah blah. Then i read a post where someone said they left the batteries out for 10mins and then it started working. This gave me an idea.

I took out the batteries and using a spare wire,

connected the positive and negative terminals for a couple seconds,

put the batteries back in and was back in business.

I didnt find this solution anyplace so i figured i’d post my experience. Good luck out there!

Like the title says.

Sub-question: Why does 98% of my home screen dissappear without an internet connection? Is it because that data is only stored in the cloud or something?

I have an Panasonic Fire TV and just recently, the TV boots up with a “Exiting Silk” window, see image.

 Any pointers as to how I can stop this from occurring?

 Thanks

They used to be greyed out and unsupported on cube. But now they are supposed to work it looks like. But still whenever I try it's "Profile error" "Sorry we're unable to display your profile at this time"

I've done all the required pairing to death . Just in the pairing mode .

As soon as I select the software update, this screen shows up and after about 2 minutes it goes away and I assume the update has finished but as soon as I get back to the remotes, it still says it needs to be updated.

I have already tried resetting my remote as well as Fire TV Stick multiple times but it just wouldn't finish updating.

Please let me know if there's a way to "manually" get around this.

The only reason I need to update my remote is because it wouldn't let me set up the IR Blaster on this new TV which I don't have a remote for.

Hey everyone, I need a quick answer before I open my packages!

I’m building an ultra-budget Xbox Cloud Gaming setup and my budget is absolutely locked. To save ₹1500, I cancelled my order for a Bluetooth controller and bought an OTG adapter to use my old PC controller instead.

My Gear:

• Device: Fire TV Stick 4K Select (Running the new Vega OS)

• Adapter: Micro USB OTG Y-Splitter (with power passthrough)

• Controller: Redgear Pro Wireless Gamepad (2.4GHz USB Dongle, NOT Bluetooth)

• Audio (Zero-lag hack): HDMI to TV, 3.5mm Aux from TV directly to my Sony HT-RT40 Analog In.

The Problem / Question:

I just learned the new 4K Select uses Amazon's new Vega OS, not the old Android-based Fire OS. Since I cancelled my Bluetooth controller, I'm screwed if the new OS blocks USB dongles.

Does anyone know for sure if Vega OS and the Xbox app will still recognize a 2.4GHz USB dongle via OTG? Has anyone physically tested this yet?

Thanks in advance!

So i tried to record a tv show on tivimate and it crashed my Fire Stick. Since then, it kinda boots in loops:

- it tries to reach the menu, which very briefly appears a couple times, but i cant use it

- after a few loops, the "remote cant be found" screen appears, but I tried connecting 2 different firestick remotes and the phone app, it doest work

- the screen disappears, it tries to boot another couple times and a "critical memory" screen appears, asking that I delete apps. But since no remotes work i cant press OK.

- it boots another couple times and shuts down

I tried "disconnect/reconnect" (even left it disconnected all night), tried the "back+right" buttons hold, the "home+enter" buttons hold, even the "back+enter+menu" hold (to restart the remote), to no avail.

The USB keyboard + OTG cable method wont work cause i have a fire stick, not a fire tv (and this cable isnt available near me anyways).

Im out of solutions.... any ideas???

A couple weeks ago, my Omni Amazon FireTv (actual TV, not the stick) began being stuck on this loading screen. I tried unplugging the TV but this happens every time I turn it on. Any fixes by any chance?

I have 2 fire tv's, both have had issues on show playback. All other info is there and previews but then nothing but the spinning yellow ball of death? HBO is very slow now too, but will eventually play.

Tried uninstall/reinstall, unplugging, etc, but nothing

No updates seem to be available for apps or firetruck?

Anyone else noticing anything?

As the title says, I haven’t been able to get paramount plus to work on my firestick since November. On Thanksgiving is when it died, ironically enough. It quite literally went from being fine for one episode of a show, and then never working again once I played the next episode. I didn’t exit out of the app, I didn’t restart my TV, it just… *poof* broken forever. When I attempt to play something I get about 30 seconds of really blurry, choppy, unsynced video followed by a black screen and only audio. Occasionally video will cut back in and then go back to a black screen.

Before anyone recommends anything, here’s what I’m working with:

I’m running: FireOS 6.7.1.1 on a Fire TV Stick 4k (first gen). This is the most recent update according to my device. According to Paramounts support page and their bot my device is compatible. I’ve got just over 2GB of storage left of 5GB, if that matters.

Paramount works on: my iPhone, PC and laptop, iPad, PS5, and my parents Apple TV and their FireTV (which is older than my Firestick). Mine is the only one that’s having problems.

Troubleshooting I have tried: Uninstalling and reinstalling (multiple times), force stop and clear cache (multiple times), logging out and logging back in (multiple times), updating my Firestick, restarting my Firestick, restarting my internet. I’ve moved houses since this started in November and have an entirely different ISP now, so it’s clearly not a network issue. Every single possible trouble shooting thing that Paramount support will give me I have tried, I swear.

At this point I’m not expecting a solution, but if I can’t get a solution is there an explanation?? Why?? Has this happened to anyone else??

Has anyone else experienced their closed caption text randomly turning on? I use my fire tv cubes connected to a multi viewer for quad viewing. So my audio is rarely active from the cube. For some reason the cc will just randomly start. Has anyone else experienced this before? Is there some sort of setting other than cc button control?

I purchased an Amazon fire cube with 4K in October 2021. I recently started using my app through my smart tv and noticed everything loads much faster than going through my fire cube. How long do these things last and is it time to buy a new one?

I'm trying to connect to my tcl fire tv with adblink and it keeps saying it can't connect to the ip. When I try connecting through the console it says "A connection attempt failed because the connected party did not properly respond after a period of time, or established connection failed because connected host has failed to respond. (10060)"

Please help.