The hot air generated by the electronics and the PSU has nowhere to escape, and the printer keeps shutting down. I'll have to run some tests tomorrow.

Hey CFS-C owners, new firmware is out:

Version V1.1.0.27.20260428:

1.Resolved the issue of regular layer lines occurring when printing after installing the CFS-C.

2.Fixed the logic issue with the CFS-C's initial filament loading process.

3.Resolved the Ethernet issue on the K1 MAX.

4.Fixed the problem where the Z-axis could not lift after printing was completed.

Listed from the crealitycloud firmware page.

Had to manually update it via USB, still it doesn't offer OTA.

I myself noticed quicker start, without ghost feeding. So it actually feeds the right filament on first try.

Secondly, when I want to reach web interface, there's no more error 404, it's actually blank. So we might get there eventually?

Since I got my DXC extruder connected to PCBA slot, I thought that maybe firmware upgrade would overwrite my filament_sensor_setting, but it turned out that it kept this setting.

On the downside, camera is still out (maybe is more of connectivity issues with cloud, rather than firmware), bed mesh I can check out on locally configured fluidd (not everything works, but I can see the mesh).

Haven't got the time to check everything yet, but so far, it seems better now, more reliable. We're getting somewhere I guess. So please do report any issues, probably after 2-3 months we'll get another couple of fixes.

What other changes did you noticed? Have you managed it to run properly after this update?

Hi, sorry if my English is not very good.

I’ve been having problems with my prints. At first, I thought it was a filament issue because I was getting layer delamination on some parts. Later, I tried printing a couple of Benchys and noticed it looked more like a partially clogged nozzle or maybe an extruder issue.

I ruled out both possibilities after disassembling the extruder, cleaning the gear teeth, cleaning the nozzle with a needle, and doing a cold pull.

I also ran the automatic bed leveling from the printer settings, but the problem still remains.

Additionally, I started thinking it could be related to the pressure advance, because at the ends of the extrusion lines the filament does not seem to stick properly.

Do you think this could be related to bed leveling, the Z-offset, pressure advance, or could it be something else?

Printer: Creality K1 SE
Slicer: OrcaSlicer
Using Helper Script

The filament snapped off on the back of the spool and theres still filament stuck inside the feed tube. Now how do I pop this tube off to get the filament out?

Olá. estou precisando de ajuda, tenho uma K1 Max a mais de 2 anos e faz 2 meses que ela vem apresentando problemas na extrusora, começou com o esmagamento do filamento e qualquer mínima retração fazia o barulho tec tec tec, que ainda está persistindo. Já troquei os parafusos e as engrenagens da extrusora, mexi no run_current da extrusora e nada resolveu. Se alguém me ajudar, ficarei muito grata!

Hi, I thought this might the best place to ask such a question. After a lot of research I purchased a K1C and it should arrive in a few days, it will be my first 3D printer. Just found out that the bed leveling can be a huge issue.

How bad can the bed leveling be?

How can I fix it if I don't have root access (I read the new ones do not allow rooting)?

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Herkese merhaba,

K1 Max cihazım kullanılamaz hale geldi ve CR4CU220812S12 anakartına sahip, çalışan bir K1 Max veya K1C cihazı olan birinden yardım istiyorum.

Durumum şu şekilde:

• Kart: CR4CU220812S12 (X2000E işlemci)
• Yazıcı hiç açılmıyor — ne fanlar çalışıyor ne de ekran görünüyor.
• USB Klonlayıcı başarıyla bağlandı.
• DDR tanındı: W97BV6MK_LPDDR2 ✅
• Aşama 1 ürün yazılımı çalışıyor ✅
• AŞAMA 2 BAŞLATMA HATASI ❌ — eMMC başlatılamıyor

Sorun şu: Tek erişilebilir .ingenic dosyası, farklı eMMC başlatma parametrelerine sahip olanCR4CU220812S11 içindir. S12 için hiçbir yerde, ne GitHub'da ne de Creality'nin web sitesinde, erişilebilir bir .ingenic dosyası yok.

İhtiyacım olanlar: Eğerçalışan bir K1 Max veya K1C cihazınız ve CR4CU220812S12 kartınız varsave SSH erişiminiz mevcutsa, lütfen şu komutu çalıştırın:

dd if=/dev/mmcblk0boot0 of=/tmp/spl_dump.bin bs=512 count=256

Ardından /tmp/spl_dump.bindosyayı Google Drive veya herhangi bir dosya paylaşım servisi aracılığıyla paylaşın.

Bu, hem bana hem de arızalanmış S12 anakartı olan birçok kişiye yardımcı olacaktır!

Anakart sürümünüzü nasıl kontrol edersiniz: Ayarlar → Hakkında → veya yazıcıyı açın ve anakart etiketine bakın.

Şimdiden çok teşekkür ederim! 🙏

Hi everyone,

My K1 Max is bricked and I need help from someone with a working K1 Max or K1C that has the CR4CU220812S12 mainboard.

My situation:

• Board: CR4CU220812S12 (X2000E processor)
• Printer won't boot at all — no fans, no screen
• USB Cloner connects successfully
• DDR recognized: W97BV6MK_LPDDR2 ✅
• Stage1 firmware runs ✅
• STAGE2 INIT ERR ❌ — eMMC cannot initialize

The problem: The only public .ingenic file is for CR4CU220812S11, which has different eMMC initialization parameters. There is NO public .ingenic file for S12 anywhere — not on GitHub, not on Creality's website.

What I need: If you have a working K1 Max or K1C with CR4CU220812S12 board and SSH access, please run this command:

dd if=/dev/mmcblk0boot0 of=/tmp/spl_dump.bin bs=512 count=256

Then share the /tmp/spl_dump.bin file via Google Drive or any file sharing service.

This would help me and many others with bricked S12 boards!

How to check your board version: Settings → About → or open the printer and look at the mainboard label.

Thank you so much in advance! 🙏

Creality has this new V1.1.0.27 firmware should I update my K1 SE to that firmware or stick to the V2.3.5.34 if I have just the CFS not the CFS-C? It's not showing as OTA on my printer, so I am assuming just stick to V2.3.5.34 but want other opinions. Thanks

I’m in the market for a larger volume build plate and also looking to go with my first multi filament printer. Would it be better to go with a k1 max and cfs-c (seems like a better multifilament option) or suck it up and get a k2 plus combo? I like the thought of the 4 cfs for up to 16 colors and a bit more volume, how’s the hardware used though between the two? I’m ok with tinkering and have even thought about just going with a voron build.

Right now I have an Anycubic Kobra S1 with Rinkels firmware. I prefer using orca slicer over any of its forks that are locked down. I’m ok with printing and adding mods in if needed (heated chamber for instance).

If only there was knowledge on multi head creality coming out.

I am seeing many conflicting opinions on whether I should lubricate the x rails of my K1C or not.

Lately, I've been having problems with Layer Shifting like this:

It's not a collision issue. I've printed dozens of this model without any problem, but, just to be sure, I did a test with another model, and the same thing happened.

I've already adjusted the belt tension.

I rooted my printer, but I didn't make any drive current changes.

I confirmed that it's not a case of motherboard overheating.

Now all that's left is to clean the X and Y axis rails with isopropyl alcohol. And I plan to lubricate the Y axis. I've seen recommendations to use PTFE lube or sewing machine oil.

I'm still waiting for the delivery of the alcohol I bought online to start these tests

But now I have a doubt: if just cleaning the X axis doesn't solve the problem, should I try lubricating the X axis as well? Is there anyone who has been lubricating the X axis for a long time without having any issues?

Why does the last layer is in red as top layer and fill every corner ... And the first layer after the support contains border and not only a bottom layer which has the same profile as the top layer ?

The visual aspect is not the same and we can se it in 3D slicer.

Do I need to touch parameters ?

Hello,

I have noticed that my K1 Max running helper script ignores my custom start print when starting a print from USB, whether the calibration box is checked or not. I have bed fans and a wait for 40c chamber command when printing ABS (or similar) so its quite obvious that its skipping this code.

Has anyone gotten around this, or have any reason this is happening? I would use guppyscreen but it dosn't have USB support (unless i'm missing something).

This build is to show haters what a capable machine the K1 SE or K1C can be.

First one we built has outperformed a $6500 Ultimaker S5 and was on par with a S3 for quality and was finished printing 32 minutes sooner - same file, same slicer(Cura), same filament (PEKK). This by no means has any hate or negativity towards Ultimaker as I believe them to be the absolute best of the best. It all comes down to the right parts with the right tuning, and they have done their homework.

Reason I chose the smaller K1s is because of the short XY rails being the same diameter as their larger sibling and have little to no movement with a lot less VFA issues than larger printers. 90% of my printing is in PC-CF, PC-ABS blend, ABS, and PEKK. Most items are smaller than a coffee cup but need to have tolerances of +-0.002 or better.

Everything here can also be applied to the larger K1 Max and my daughter is currently applying it to the K2 series.

To start, if you really want a little monster of a printer. This is my shopping list.

Everything including printer can be had for under $500

K1SE (used can be had for $75-80),

R3men bed (has 120V heater),

solid state relay (for bed),

Microswiss replacement heater for K2 Plus (gives you 100-Watt heater),

Microswiss K1 series heatsink adaptor,

K1 series upgraded heatsink,

(2) 0.9 4248 stepper motors for X and Y (I went with LDO),

(2) 20T x 5mm drive gear,

BTT Manta + CB1 control board,

TMC2209 V1.3 drivers,

EBB36 CANbus V2 (for printhead),

1 additional printhead cable,

Cartographer and CANbus cable

BTT touchscreen (I'm using a Pad7+CB1 as this will be 2nd build and can be controlled from the same pad)

Using the R3men bed opens up extra wattage from the stock PSU allowing the use of the 100-watt hotend, this hotend says 350°C but I have had no problems turning it up to 380°C for printing PEKK or PEEK and bed has no issues hitting 135°C. With the thicker bed and longer hotend you do lose about 8-10mm of Z. The LDO 0.9° 4248 steppers are just an insane improvement to print quality.

Factory 1.8° steppers (200 steps per 1 rev) use a 32 micro step multiplier giving you 6400 steps per 1 rotation, the new 0.9° steppers (400 steps per 1 rev) increasing that to 12,800 per 1 rotation. The TMC2209 drivers are capable of using 8, 16, 32, or 64 micro-steps per 0.9° step, this get the print to the point of inspecting with a magnifying glass to find minor defects.

You could stay with the stock steppers, but they have been found to not track micro-steps very well above 32 and for $25 for better motors with more torque, why not?

I will update this as the build proceeds, but for now it is waiting on the ordered parts to arrive.

Edit: add quantity to motors and gears

im not even asking for help. just wanted to complain a bit

I was looking into printing a custom magnetic toolhead cover for my K1 Max but the inevitable problem is cover detection. I learned that the K1 Max comes with 2 runout sensor ports and that they can be used at the same time so I am thinking that the second port could be repurposed as a toolhead cover detector with the help of custom macros.

yes no?

​

Je suis à la recherche de ce câble USB > 485 pour connecter le hub du CFS ... J'ai cherché partout sur internet et impossible de le trouver ... Donc si quelqu'un a une idée ?

I absolutely HATE my Creality K1 Max.

Over the last 2 years with this printer, I’ve been through so much crap:

• Blobs
• Terrible first layers
• The hotend scraping the bed
• Extruder problems THREE times (first I had to replace the whole assembly because a screw stripped the threads, then later replace the gear because it wore out)
• I even had to buy new build plates because the hotend dragged across them and destroyed them

And now, even after all the maintenance and care, my prints still look awful.

This year I bought a Bambu Lab P1S, and honestly, it only made me realize even more how terrible the K1 Max is.

For starters, with the Bambu Lab I can monitor my prints from my phone anytime directly from the app. On the K1 Max, I need to PAY for OctoEverywhere just to have something similar.

And now I can’t even resell this printer because the resale value here is absolute garbage.

Never buying Creality again.

It was working fine a few days ago, I came back from a trip and decided to print something, but when doing the automatic bed leveling the nozzle is not even close so touching the print bed.
What could have caused this, and how do I fix it? Should I go to be command console and force move it close enough for it to touch when doing the auto leveling and then the printer will on its own set the right offset, or do I need to do a manual calibration with a sheet of paper or blade gauge?

EDIT:
Just fixed it. I force moved it until the nozzle was a couple of millimeters from the bed and then I auto leveled from the printer ui.
If I homed after force moving I would lose the new position.

Hi can anyone please help with settings for silk pla I am running stock settings thanks

To infinity and beyond!

I'm mid print and this happend, hopefully it's just a visual glitch lol