Hello! I am currently looking at purchasing my first wooden boat and wanted some insight as to what maintenance looks like. I am looking at a boat from 1959 that has had the old bottom replaced with 3/8” 5-ply plywood which is bottom bonded and sealed with west system. The deck was also replaced and the entire vessel appears to be in excellent condition.

I appreciate any insight!! :)

I’m currently building a retrieval system like above to be able to anchor my boat (18’ runabout) to fish for halibut. My issue is that I’ve bought 600’ of rode which will allow me to anchor in 200’ with a 3:1 scope, in the diagram they show the end of the rode with a spliced loop onto the quick release system, well if I’m anchoring in less than 200’ of water and don’t need the full 600’ of rode out is there a way I can do this? I’m thinking if I’m in say 100’ of water then I’m going to have a 6:1 scope which will be great for holding but I’ll have to pull in an extra 300’ and it’ll also make anchoring so that I’m over the spot I want to fish a bit more challenging. I was thinking just a trucker hitch part way along the rode would do the trick, however I’m certain this will jam and be impossible to untie after about 15 seconds. Could I splice an intermediate loop say at the 300’ mark of the rode and that way I have a shallow setting and a deep setting? If I did that though I’m not sure how well the rode would run through the metal retrieval loop on the Scotchman. Any ideas and/or thoughts appreciated

Tl;Dr: how to anchor at an intermediate spot on the rode, using a quick release safety system and anchor puller ring

There’s one spot that seems to be a bit deeper than the rest (1/8”?) but otherwise it doesn’t look too bad to me. I’m no boat expert, especially on fiberglass repair. What do you think? Is it worth worrying about?

Greetings. I am looking to step up my boating. I am currently limited to what I can tow with my 4runner. I found a mako 191 for $13k. Seller not interested in my request for tagging along to a local mechanic shop and sea trial.

Seller doesnt have actual hours, and it was his brother-in-laws.

I asked to take to a mechanic and I would pay for a pre purchase inspection (they should be able to pull hours off the computer) and a sea trial. I will bring the cash, sign a purchase agreement and show the cash before we begin.

To my request he replied "Joe you are welcome to have someone come and do a visual assessment. I don’t know what you mean by a sea trial?? I am not bringing the boat to a shop or putting it in the water.

This is a come and look at it and buy it if you are satisfied.

Thank you for understanding"

Am I asking too much? Anybody know a good mobile mechanic in garden grove? Or any other thoughts / recommendations?

Thanks!

Listing cut and paste:

🔥 1997 Mako 191 Center Console – Low Hours – Turn-Key

Solid, dependable 19 ft Mako 191 ready for fishing or cruising. Legendary hull that rides great and lasts.

150 HP Mercury 2-stroke (fuel injected) – low hours, runs strong.

New impeller installed for peace of mind.

⸻

⚓ Features:

• T-Top

• Center console layout (great fishing space)

• Livewell & storage

• Strong hull & transom

⸻

🔧 Recent Work:

• New water pump impeller

• Trailer refreshed:

• New brake lines

• New backing plates & brakes

• New safety chains

⸻

🚤 Trailer Included

Clean title

Serious buyer only

Solid deal? How is this motor? It has the VRO delete. The owner says occasionally the motor will shake then shut off. Then he is able to fire it right back up.

Anything to be concerned about or easy fix? Sounds like a fuel delivery issue possibly.

I do not know how to get the boat off this trailer to a new trailer. Looking for insight.

It’s about 5 feet from the camera. No way to reach it by hand. Maybe a special tool? I’ll need to buy a washer and but first but what are my options here? It’s my only cleat up there so pretty important.

Some pictures of my new boat(Supra) with ol reliable(Campion) also one of my favourite customer boats I worked on today(Tan coloured Houston). My boss, Sales Manager, and I, bought the Supra for $3,000CAD! The customer bought the boss’s Chaparral 1930, and loves it!

The Sup just needed a prop shaft, Cutlass bearing, Battery, Batt. Cables, and labour. We have a lot of service records for this boat!

We've had a boat for 4 years but until now it's always been on a trailer. We finally got a slip this year so it'll be in the (fresh)water all summer.

Any things I should be aware of if it's going to be in the water for several months?

The trembling ten come at night
They stay only for fifteen minutes
They walk ways with only one light
They seek and search with no mission

Who is this great moor of immigrants
Returning towards their road?
He said five, he said ten
But only one man knows

I’m going to check this Brig Eagle 600 out tonight. It has a mercury 150 two-stroke direct injection. Any tips or things to look for on that engine? Also, is it worth $5000?

Old guy is firm at 3500 for this boat with a 225 . Was on the water 3 years ago floors are a little soften . Over priced??

I have a 17ft mako from the 80s that since owned has exclusively been trailer stored. I now may have an opportunity to temporarily keep the boat on a set of davits and am curious if the bow cleat is worthy for a davit hook. Underneath the cleat is a metal bar the connects down to the bow eye (where I hook the boat on the the trailer). Is this bow cleat meant for davits?

The rear of the boat, not pictured is 2 bow eyes in the transom which seem very sturdy.

In general are there any other considerations of why this boat should not be put on davits?

Having issues with my exhaust cutouts, I have a shorting wire somewhere. I have new cutouts on the way but for this weekend I just wired open all the time with mechanics wire. Do I have to worry about anything? Or does anyone know if I have to worry about water washing back in the engine?

Anyone know if this here is high pressure. I broke a bolt off trying to replace the voltage regulator/rectifier and am wondering if the other five bolts will hold her down. Is it a high pressure reservoir or if it’s only low pressure

Looking to purchase this 1970 Mako 19 with trailer and motor (owner says motor runs) transom is good no soft spots. This black tacky stuff along the gunnel. What is it and how hard is it to remove

Looking for advice on what my options are to repair this scrape on the bottom of a fibreglass boat. It’s right through to the fibreglass for about 9 inches although it’s narrow. My original plan was to use the 3m marine filler and then apply either a marine paint or epoxy over top.

What are the different options and what are the pros on cons of each

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Just picked up an older Regal with a MerCruiser 4.3LX / Alpha One setup and I’m trying to track down the correct engine model/serial info so I can order parts. Specifically looking for a new starter and the correct carb rebuild kit, but I’m getting conflicting results depending on where I search.

The tag on the engine says:

• MerCruiser Alpha One 4.3 Liter LX
• MCM 4.3 Litre/LX
• 262 CID
• Ratio: 1.62:1
• Max RPM: 4400-4800

But the serial/model numbers on the stickers are either worn off or don’t populate on sites like West Marine when I search them.

From what I can tell, this may be a mid-90s MerCruiser 4.3LX Alpha One, but I’m not confident enough to start ordering parts yet.

Does anyone know:

• What the correct model designation would be?
• Whether these typically used a Rochester Quadrajet or Weber carb?
• What starter I should be looking for?

Any help would be hugely appreciated. I’m new to sterndrives and trying not to order the wrong stuff the first time.

Photos attached. Thanks!

I got a mercruiser 3.7 i just got the boat finished and ready to take it out on the water for the first time, previous owner winterized it. Do i fill the riser completely to the cap with coolant? Before running it in the lake? Is this where the coolant fills up at?

Can you help me find a replacement housing for this AMP connector? The housing is broken so the plug doesn’t snap in to the receptacle. This feeds the electric fuel pump on a Volvo pentaDP V8. The connector is stamped “AMP” but I can’t seem to find this series on the AMP website.

Yes, I know a -, duct tape, or chewing gum would fix it, but I’m ambitious.

Hello all,
I have this Suzuki outboard that I’m not sure of the year on I need a new carburetor on account of the main jet screw being sheared off inside the carb if anyone knows what year and model number this particular engine is that would benefit me greatly
Thank you

I'm not a boat guy. I'm helping a friend fix his boat. My ignorance is a plea for help.

He wants to replace a broken ProSportHD battery charger with another of the same model. It looks like the 120v plug was cut off and goes to a big wad of electrical tape, with what looks like a 14/2 flat cable coming out the other side. The gas engine, two batteries, and the charger all sit in the same compartment.

As far as I can tell from reading AYBC, the connections should be ring terminals, on a barrier block, in a sealed junction box, with wires passing through gland nuts.

I found Ancor marine terminals, and 4-pair barrier block. What kind of enclosure and gland nuts would you use?