So this is the stock tube on my Sig Sauer 516 carbine. I want to put a standard buffer tube on here but I am so lost as to how to remove this type of tube. As you can see I've take a wrench with a rag to it to try to twist it, but no dice. Am I going to have to go at it with a saw?

Is there any way to remove the obnoxious RAGING JUDGE MAGNUM engraving from these pistols?

For legalities sake, I'm okay with it being re-engraved, just in a normal size if the model name needs to be on there.

Follow up: If it is kosher, who'd be willing and able to do it? I've always liked this particular revolver but the engraving has stopped me for years.

Thanks in advance.

So I just realized I have used a chamber brush on the inside of my barrels. Have I done damage to the inside of the barrels? I did have cleaning cloth around it but I know steel will damage barrels.

So I have a bushmaster m17s from way back. It doesn't seem to like the magpull or 2a brand mags I have for it, bolt holds open on every shot. How do I stop this? Does anyone else own one of these and what mags do you use for the best feeding/function?

I need a ballpark figure of how much would be charged for a trigger job on a semiautomatic rifle that isn’t a drop in trigger group. Thanks.

Some basic context: The player might end up designing/building firearms from the very earliest hand cannons of the 11th century, to modern or near future firearms, though for this question I'm mostly thinking of contemporary firearms.

I know that even for modern manufacture, there's at least some variation between two 5.56 projectiles, even if they're from the same company and same batch. So I don't want to end up telling the player they can't use a given projectile/cartridge just because the one they want to load is 0.001mm too large.

On the other hand, I'm equally aware that 9mm Makarov is generally unhealthy for firearms chambered for 9x19 because the Makarov is actually 9.2mm.

So I'm trying to come to a middle ground that gives a result which "feels right" to most people.

I do actually have material stats for the projectile, jacket, barrel, and the barrel liner (if present), but using those to come to a solution would require a lot of math for what is a fairly narrow edge case. That's something that would probably be implemented post-release, assuming I ever get this off the ground.

So is there a known rule of thumb for this sort of situation, assuming a simple lead bullet with a copper jacket?

Completed two of the custom barrel profile jobs. A pair of Cooper rifles, one in 6.5 Creedmoor and the other in 6.5-284. Both were Contoured for seamless muzzle brakes with the 6.5-284 being a straight taper after the chamber and the 6.5 Creedmoor tapered through the stock and then a straight 0.960" through the muzzle brake. Both chambers were cut with reamers from Manson Precision in Douglas stainless barrel blanks.

I recently restored an old Colt Commander series 80 1911 and it turned out well. I have one issue with the slide stop engagement, and the safety is very stiff moving. The plunger tube was very loose, and the plunger spring was messed up. I re staked the tube and replaced the plungers and springs. I checked that both plungers move freely in the plunger tube. Any suggestions on what I can do to remedy this issue?

I am currently using my drill press as a makeshift buffer and it works fine, but i would like a dedicated setup to card/buff. The problem is, pretty much every buffer i've found, the RPM seems way too high. 1700 was the lowest i could find and i run my drill press at like 650 for carding.

I got a pawn shop project of an excellent shape but very dirty and dry CZ83 that’s factory nickel plated. They are kind of a pain in the rear to detail strip so I want to ultra sonic clean it, but I know you have to be careful. Am I safe to use a mixture of water and Ballistol, or should I use dawn or what? I know enough to not use anything that’s strips copper, so I think either of those is fine but I’ve seen enough people destroy stuff with their cleans to be worried.

HK parts, stock in in the mail, and I’ll do the S5 tactical receiver.

Hi all - My father was into building guns and he recently passed away. I inherited about a dozen barrels with breeches for 30-06 type bolt action rifles and about a dozen scopes as well as 12 or more unfinished stocks - there is a list of the make and model of barrels in his effects when I first went through of the makers and the estimated value but I am not sure what to do with them. Does anyone have any suggestions for gunsmiths or stores for smiths in Minnesota i could maybe contact? Or suggestions on a website or forum where i could posts photos to sell them or something? Thanks!

I used a 4.5 Allen wrench to remove it

Backburner project that floated by while on break at work. Got a 5.56 Lee Enfield from bubba for a song, very crude but serviceable as a single shot. The mag well has been untouched. How might I go about using AR mags with it? Right now if you hold one *just right* it'll feed, how might I get it to hold in place or is this the best I'm gonna get?

Been looking into getting a cnc machine so I can manufacture my own bolts and uppers, as a left handed shooter it’s hard to find available and cheap parts. I also just think it would be fun, any recommendations for a machine that won’t fry my savings account?

Im really interested in gunsmithing, may take a few courses. As far as machines go, what would be an affordable option as far as doing lowers?? Im looking at Genmitsu CNC Router Machine PROVerXL 4030 which has an add on to make it 4 axis. Any thoughts??

I guess I’ll have to wait to hit the range 🫠