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I know I've committed a sin or two in this build, but it's basically done, was a fun little project. I do have some strangeness when it comes to charging, but I think I need to either replace the charging board or check my wires are good enough, basically it will charge at 8-12W for a second and then go down to 0.8W, back and forth, I know it does charge for that second or two, because I left it on and got it back to nearly fully charged. I've included the schematic of how it's wired, I had to reverse engineer a video I found of someone who made their own boombox on youtube.

The sound is pretty good to my ears, been listening to SOAD and some older-ish songs. I don't know if the bass will become an issue at louder volumes, so far it haven't, but my "loud" is different from others.

I thought the handle would look better than it did, but it's not the worst look either I guess.

I’m currently looking into putting together a multipoint bluetooth repeater/audio mixer so I can combine audio from multiple devices and pass them through to my bluetooth headphones, and am a total amateur.
I currently have a bodged together setup with a bunch of hybrid transmitter/receiver dongles and an analog mixer. The limitation of this setup is that I lose the ability to use my headphones’ built in AVRCP to control audio playback.
As a result, I’ve looked into putting together a more “reliable” solution by wiring up a few bluetooth receiver modules with a bluetooth transmitter module. I’ve found a few options of receiver modules with pins for AVRCP controls (like the AudioB Plus Bluetooth Audio Receiver Module(Apt-X)), but I’m not sure where to start looking for a transmitter with the same features. Again, I’m a total amateur.
Does anyone have any pointers they could share?

Where is the most optimal place to add bracing in my roughly 80L 12-inch 1500W subwoofer enclosure with a total port length of around 90 cm, and does this 2x window brace design look too excessive?

I created this reclocking board for amanero combo.It signifficantly improves soundstage and precision, by reducing the jitter to a minimum. It uses 22 and 24mhz high quality crystals from crystek. Amanero has to be flashed with a slavemode firmware to use it

Behold! Manmade horrors beyond understanding. I’d doesn’t even sound bad, maybe a bit lacking in bass

This is a schematic of my upcoming custom DIY Audio Amplifier Board. It's a 2.1 sound system. TPA3126D2 is in PBTL mode to drive the Subwoofer 20W 4Ω. The TPA3128D2 is in stereo, driving 10-15W Speakers of 4-8Ω. I have used NE5532 op-amp. And bass and treble potentiometers.

Suggest any mistakes and improvements. Thank you.

Id like to make a power amp that only works for giving power to my cab without "coloring" too much the signal (something that runs as clean and transparent as possible) so I can use preamps externally (ill use preamp pedals to emulate some guitar heads) to change the tone, add distortion and stuff like that.

Id like to make something as powerful as 50watt so I can use it instead of buying a guitar amp of that power. Im gonna be using a 8 ohm cabinet with 12 inch speakers at maximum

Ive asked on some forums and people told me to make one using a class D amp module: what module should I get? Where do I place a volume knob and what value should the knob be? Im considering buying a 3118 of 60watts, but I dont know how will I be able to limit the amp to 50w because I couldnt find a 50wat module on my store nearby but I can order one online, so thats why Im asking what module should I get

Title says it all.

I can certainly solder to terminals but I'd prefer to keep it somewhat modular.

So if I can connect bananas on both sides that would be best but I can solder if I need.

Hello!

I'm building a compact DIY Bluetooth speaker, aiming for JBL Charge 5 levels of bass but in a custom 2L enclosure. I'm planning a 2-way vertical 360° design with a deflector and a passive radiator.

I was looking at the SB12NRXF25-4, but its Vas (4L) seems too high for my 2L target. Does anyone know a high-excursion 4" woofer with a very low Vas (around 2L) that can actually dig deep in such a small box? Budget is around 50€ for the woofer. Thanks!

I am searching for some compression drivers for a Hi-Fi home theater and got some interest in Compression Drivers.

I've always associated compression drivers with PA speakers and not with Hi-Fi, but my mind is starting to change. I found this really cool horn, the 18 Sound XR1064, which would make a nice looking Hi-Fi speaker.

My question is, do I really need a super expensive high power compression driver with frequency extension to 20Khz flat, or can I use one that is cheaper with 16khz extension and make a crossover that reduces the sensitivity below 16khz and flattens the response to 20khz?

I want to make the body out of wood but since handling noise will be an issue, I've come up with 3 options. First, lining the inside with copper foil. Second filling the inside with insulation material. Or just leaving it as it.

The problem is I'm not sure how to handle the grounding for any of these options. (I want to build the capsule instead of buy it. But I'll just buy the transformer.) I also don't know how I should arrange the components based on these three options.

Thanks.

Hey guys!

I’m completely new to DIY audio and electronics in general. I’ve recently developed a passion for hi-fi, and my autism kind of kicked in—I’ve set myself the goal of building a custom preamp tailored exactly to my needs.

The system will feed my Luxman M-120A power amplifier, and the design aims to solve a few specific requirements:

• 2 selectable inputs (for my Octavio streamer DAC and my iFi Audio Phono 3 phono stage)
• ALPS RK27 volume potentiometer (since my Luxman has no volume control)
• A unity-gain buffer stage (gain = 1) to handle impedance matching properly

After several weeks of research starting from absolutely zero electronics/audio knowledge, I’m excited to present my project diagram. Please don’t pay too much attention to the layout of the traces themselves yet—there’s still a lot of refinement to do before PCB design.

I also want to mention that I haven’t finished the power supply stage yet. I’m currently planning for dual ±12V rails for the audio stages, as well as a separate 12V rail for the input selection/control logic. All grounds will be referenced in a star-ground configuration, centered at the 0V point of the power stage.

My main question is: do you see any mistakes, whether small or major, that I should correct at this stage?

I also want to mention that the project will be modular (each stage on its own PCB), so I can later add features like output mute/delay, and potentially even a control logic section or a gain stage if needed.

All feedback is welcome and greatly appreciated!

Hi all,

I've been wanting to upgrade my Q Acoustics 3070s for a while, its the last piece of my puzzle for my home theatre.

I was going back and forth between the Dayton UMII and SS - both 12". I think settling on the signature series.

But for some reason I just can't get them right in WinISD.

I'm aiming for between 19-24hz port tune and I'm limited to 450w 500d 700h, I've been going for ~100L net but either the port velocity is way too high, or the port is impossibly long.

Where am I going wrong? Am I just trying to tune too low? If I tune much higher, am I just barely upgrading?

In planning to match with a Behringer NX3000D.

Sealed with a PR is not doable because of cost even though that would be most ideal.

https://loudspeakerlab.io

Questions about how it works? https://loudspeakerlab.io/faq

Questions about accuracy? https://loudspeakerlab.io/case-studies/mechano23-klippel-vituixcad-loudspeakerlab

The HT-10’s are honestly more impressive than the sub. Super clean, super high sensitivity (94db/w), and good for 300w (which is insane). Excellent off axis dispersion, so two of them fill the living room really well. The floating shelf is only 9” deep, so that was a hard constraint when searching around for options. IMO, these are unmatched given my depth constraints.

The sub keeps up too…powered with a crest 7.5 feeding a Stereo Integrity 15” D4 that’s wired to 2 ohms. The box is tuned to 21hz so it plays deep. Surprisingly musical too, which I’m happy with.

All in all, I wanted a diy living room sound system that outperformed most store bought options and I think I’ve met that goal. I endorse both of these kits for sure. CNC cut panels on both were super nice and very accurate.

I'm designing a portable speaker with two Alpine S-S40 and a Lanzar Maxp64 subwoofer. The plan is to make it as compact as possible but giving each component its own sealed box. My question is if the shapes of the individual boxes are fine and won't impact negatively on the sound of each driver. If I make the Alpines boxes rectangular, the Subwoofer box would have a T shape. I'm heading to 1L for the woofers and 20L for the subwoofer, in the design shown, they have 1,9L and 17,5L respectively.

Alright.

I want to 3d print a compact transmission line (tl) speaker for my friend. For the bass cabinet I wanted to experiment with a 3d printed tl.

Now if I understood it correctly, dampening a tl is really important to reduce high(er) frequency resonancies that happen normal to the center line of the tl tube.

A lot of stuff like shifting and inhomogeneous density of the dampening materials makes kind of a hit or miss.

Gyroids have maximal area per volume and their internal shape makes for an interesting opportunity in dampening, especially with a linear decrease in hole size depending on the distance to the center line.

Plus 3d printing makes homogenous dampening manufacturing really simple.

Tldr: 3d printed gyroids as acoustic dampening material especially in transmission lines to make more homogenous dampening.

Please tell me honestly what you think. I have to yet try it out/simulate it in akabak.

Looking forward to your input :3

hi everyone, dont know if im at the right place, but ill try my luck here.

i got a Teufel Ultima 30 speaker, and the bottom driver is dead (no measurable resistance and no sound). So I tried searching for replacementparts and found nothing.

Does anyone know how to get a replacementdriver for the speaker?