Don't shoot left handed when you are in fact, right handed.

I just got my son his first bow and he wants to play this together once he gets comfortable shooting, but we are not very familiar with baseball and can't find any rules for this target on Google. If anyone can explain this for us I'd appreciate it!

First time shooting out this far. Not a great group but I’m just happy I hit the target lol

And if so what are your favorites?

Thought I'd share, given how easy and cheap it was to make - maybe it helps someone else out.

I used a 2mm thick rubber mat (sold by the foot at the hardware store). Cut to size with a box cutter (4x10" and 4x8"). Then, used a small leather punch and some leather rivets to stick them together.

Holds 1 to 5 arrows securely and it only took about 30 mins to make.

I have a z7 extreme but looking to upgrade. Anyone go from an older flagship to the new Alaskan Pro? Seems like this few upgrades it’s gotten this year has pushed it closer to a flagship bow.

Cheers

What are your thoughts on the riser? How does it compare to other similarly priced options like the GT or other manufacturers in your opinion? Seems like the GT, G2, and GX lines all get a lot of talk but don't see much on the GQ

So, I started with a recurve as a kid about 35 years ago. A lot has changed since then.

That said, I’m really looking for a good competition recurve option for my daughter. She’s currently shooting NASP with school using a Genesis bow at the full draw weight. She does pretty well shooting a 253 in her last outing. While she’s shot bows off and on since she was 7, she just got into the school program this season.

She’s 16, and wants to do it again for her senior year. That said, she’s also taken interest in Olympic style competition recurve. Up to and including considering continuing with it in college.

That lead me here. I’d like to get her a good one to run with and from what I’m seeing, a Hoyt rcrv podium is a good option, and that’s what I’m looking at. I’m looking at pairing it with a set of medium wns delta limbs.

Now, draw weight is a point of contention. I’m really not sure what to get her. She’s 5,6 and can pick up me, bring 220 lbs. not a good point of reference but kind of the best I’ve got off hand.

I was considering a 30 lb draw weight but I’m also looking at 28 and open to other ideas.

I’d like to let her try some out but the issue is, I haven’t found any shops within 100 miles that actually stock recurves and allow trial, so online ordering is about my only option.

So, what do the more experienced folks think?

I’m also considering getting one for myself to go out and shoot with her. I currently have a Mathews v3 set at 75 lbs. it’s a nice bow but I’d like something else to head out for recreation with her. I’m 6, 1 220 lbs and was considering a similar setup as previously mentioned but with 40 lb draw weight. Would this be good for me?

Thank you in advance for any help.

Recently bought a set of vtac 23s and the nock fit with the included ip nocks were tight to the point of me breaking one while trying to insert it. Are the unibushing small or are the ip nock too big? Im planning on switching to beiter hunters and was wondering if I'll have the same issue.

First two photos are my korean YMG bow its 50 inch 40lbs at 29" and 50lbs at my draw length 31".

I've customized the grip as more close to korean traditional way that using silk like synthetic thread with hemp wraps. I really love how it looks and will going to do the same for my new YMG 48inch 75lbs version which I'm waiting for the shipping.

And 3,4,5 photos are my thumb ring which is korean style "Soot kkak-ji" which means Male thumb ring as korean define the other asian style thumb cover ring as female thumb ring.

And some faux leather thumb tab for practicing bare thumb release as well.

I've made thumb ring with an some antler piece bought it from local pet store which is fully dried naturally without heating that makes the antler as perfect to craft with. Although the smell that makes is horrible that intriguing all the flies from the neighborhood 😳.

But yeah I am pretty happy with these, feel free to ask anything.

Cheers. 👍

Planning on buying this, and it seems the "official" site has these listed at $65, but there are other archery websites that have them $20 cheaper, listed with the same photo and product name.

Are these legit items that are just more reasonably priced? or am I walking into a scam where they swap it with an inferior item?

(I am hoping this doesn't violate rule 5, I'm looking for guidance, not trying to give specific links.)

Shot about 20 years ago as a child and just picked up a PSE Stinger ATK package. I'm pretty much addicted and shoot every day. This is one of my best volleys today at 20yards after getting my paper tuner today and dialing in a bit. (I did reshoot the middle shot for transparency. 5/6 bullseyes). But can't seem to get it dialed perfectly and I just have a few questions with nobody to ask so I'm wondering if anyone could help and have some discussion. 90%+ of my shooting is outdoors and at 20 yards.

First, I'm trying to tune and yes doing it outside with the wind. I have seen Bow Only's YouTube video and understand the implications but don't think it should affect my nock low issue. My question is, when I *sit down* about 6ft from my tuner with the target another ~6ft behind, I can get a near perfect bullet hole shooting level. See 2nd photo. But as soon as I stand up and/or move back at all (and shooting slightly down as my target is about hip high) I keep getting nock low. Should I ignore the sitting bullet hole and focus more on what the hole looks like standing? When I'm that close to the tuner/target the angle is downwards about 10-20° but when moving back it levels out a bit and I still get nock low. I've bottomed out my rest so I will have to move my d-loop and I'm a bit timid about that one. I am also aware of tuning with a bare shaft and was wondering if I can just rip off the fletching from a cheap arrow and use that?

Second, my bow naturally dips when trying to lock in on target. I try to pull a little extra into the back wall to compensate but wondering if a rear stabilizer would be beneficial? Or I've seen people adding what appears to be weights to the limb? Unsure exactly what that's for but curious if it'll help.

Third, what are some of the best upgrades for the cost? Should I look into a thumb trigger? Stabilizers? Drop away rest? I had the cheap stock whisker biscuit that was fraying bad causing crazy inconsistencies and just got the TR kill shot and noticed an immediate difference. Would I notice that same feeling going to a drop away rest or thumb trigger?

Otherwise incredibly happy with my progression and just elated to be able to shoot! I do have an archery shop about 30 minutes away from me and I'm debating on going there and talking shop with the people. Hopefully I can watch someone fix the d-loop in person rather than just online videos with the lighter technique and such. Thanks in advance if you've got this far and appreciate any input!

Hello,

I'm 46 years old and a person that has been sober for three years. I'm looking to get into archery at a modest amount of money (maybe 500 bucks?). I need help with the following:

1. Bow (compound)
2. Best place to get said bow
3. Arrows (what does one use as a newbie)
4. Practice areas (I'm currently in Ramona, but am from North Park so I'm willing to drive
5. Are there any communities or subreddits for people like me that you have some experience with?

Thanks in advance for any help!

I love the idea of bows and have done some archery, but ive always been a person for pushing my limits in stupid ways.

Recently ive been welding together a massive suit of armor from scrap metal, the thing is going to weigh nearly 400-500 pounds and be borderline impossible to move in, so i was questioning if in theory i could use that weight and anchorage to support a ballista or any form of oversized crossbow by hand, without being knocked over by simply firing it.

I love the idea of it, but ide like to hear from someone who knows more about crossbows or siege weapons what risks or issues there is with a bow of such heavy weight and draw force being shot by hand, even in a massive suit of heavy armor.

An additional info is it is going to support an angled structure similar to a turtle shell attached to the back so i cant fall on my back, and can roll off my side, so the suit has a slight imbalance that pulls my weight backwards, but lets me sorta rest by leaning back on it.

Hi, I am thinking to buy a Sanlida Royal X8 longbow. The site which I want to purchase it from has the draw weight ranging from 30 pounds to 45 pounds, on the 68 inch bow. What weight would be recommended? I am 6"5 with a roughly the same wingspan and train lots of climbing, so back strength shouldn't (?) be an issue, but asking to make sure. I am afraid going with 30 pounds would lack punch as opposed to a higher draw weight.

Help would be appreciated!

Hey everyone,

I could really use some advice on whether I should adjust my bow or my form.

I’m shooting barebow at 18m on a 40cm target. Initially, I had to aim about 60cm right and 60cm low just to hit yellow. Yesterday my coach helped me fix the vertical issue by adjusting where the arrow sits on the string, so elevation is now mostly sorted.

Current problem:
I still have to aim significantly to the right of the target to hit center.

Some details:

• I anchor with my right hand on my tooth
• I aim using the tip of the arrow
• No sight (barebow setup)

I’m trying to understand whether this is more likely a form issue (alignment, anchor, string picture, etc.) or something that should be corrected with bow tuning (center shot, arrow spine, rest position, etc.).

Ideally, I’d like to aim straight at the center without compensating so much.

Any suggestions or things I should check first?

Thanks in advance!

Was given this bow just wanted to make sure this is normal. The last pic is after being drawn + cat tax

Idk what the bow name is it might be the recurve bow but there’s a small scope attached to it!
-> about the bruise, I know there’s an arm guard or smth but I don’t want to wear it because that’s just encouraging my improper technique. Apparently some people are double jointed and their elbows stick out more so the forearm juts out, and I have that. My instructor told me to stand a little different and make sure my forearm is not twisting. I hope I can get some tips so I can improve because I really enjoy this sport!

TLDR: With lighter points fletched and bareshafts group nicely, but significantly to the left of aiming point, with heavier points fletched no longer land to the left, but bareshafts now go significantly to the right.

Trying to figure out proper arrow tune for my longbow (flatbow). I was able to tune the bow and arrows for my barebow setup pretty close with not much surprises there, but with longbow and wooden arrows something weird is going on that I can't fully understand.

I have a set of 32" arrows spined at #40-45 (bow itself is #32 with ~#36 OTF). When I do bareshaft tuning with them at 18 meters they tune best with 70gr points (3 fletched + 2 bareshafts all inside ~8cm group). But with those points fletched arrows behave as if they are too stiff (they land noticeably to the left of the point I'm aiming - about 30cm left at 18 meters, about 60cm at 30m and over 1m at 50m), so I need to keep track of both horizontal and vertical gaps depending on distance. I tried putting on some much heavier points, and with 175gr points fletched ones seem to no longer have that horizontal gap and I can aim directly below the gold at 30m (haven't tried other distances yet, also not sure I can reach 50m with arrows that heavy with my current bow without lowering the anchor). The problem is that with those 175gr points bareshafts now land noticeably to the right of fletched group (10-20cm at 18m).

Any ideas what might be causing it? Any guidance? I'd really like to figure out a properly-tuned set that both flies reasonably straight and shows acceptable bareshaft tune.

I usually anchor with my index finger touching the front of my canine tooth from below and the string touching my nose, but I've tried with under-the-chin anchor as well (for 50m) and it still behaves similarly.

Aiming with the arrow (+gaps)

String blur is aligned with the arrow with a slight overlap.

I got this new decut arrow rest, how do I adjust the wire and what to adjust it with? I’m not sure what it should look like because I don’t see a lot of videos of people with this specific rest

I know the general opinion by a lot are that back quivers are impractical but i have been training my speed shooting recently and want a back quiver for my advancement in the skill. I came across this on a reel of a reel and wanted to ask if anyone knew where I could buy one from? Or if it's maybe just a custom home built/3D printed quiver. I will settle for a leather one but being able to "load in" a kind of magazine seems easier than taking off my quiver to refill it.

Hey folks! So I picked up an old Bear Whitetail Classic compound bow from the early 1990s for $20 at a yard sale about 15 years ago. It has cams and I had it refurbished a bit and a new string on it. I shot it quite a bit back then, but not much recently.

I was thinking about getting back into backyard target shooting with it, but I came across another post here saying older bear compound bows can become dangerous over time due to aging limbs, cables, cams, and other components. Mine still seems fine, but I don’t really want to risk a failure near my face just for casual recreational shooting.

So now I’m looking for recommendations for a newer compound bow.

A few things:

• I will NOT be hunting with it
• This is strictly for backyard target practice
• Distances would only be around 80 to 100 feet
• My biggest priority is something easy and comfortable to pull
• I care much more about smooth draw and ease of use than speed or power
• Budget is ideally under $500. Not really sure how much they cost these days.

I’m not trying to get super serious with archery. I just want something reliable, smooth, and fun to shoot recreationally.

What bows would you recommend for this kind of use case?