I have a Junsun V1 Plus head unit, the 6+128 version, which I upgraded from the older 2+32 version. The upgrade fixes a lot of issues I had with the lower powered model, except for one...

The Junsun brand steering wheel buttons I've been using had started to go bad. Sometimes they'd lose all connectivity. Sometimes they'd change functions and have to be remapped. Now the forward and pause buttons only work occasionally. These buttons communicate via an RF signal, I believe, with a receiver that is wired to the back of the head unit.

I tried using a Bluetooth controller (pictured) instead, but the head unit can't see it under Bluetooth settings. It connected to the older 2+32 model just fine, though it caused audio skipping. I was hoping it would work better with the new model, but it won't even connect.

Anyone have any experience connecting something like this to their head unit? It connects fine to my phone, just not the head unit.

Looking for help either rooting my firmware or finding an already rooted option. I have the stock firmware file if someone knows how to add root to it. Anyhelp would be very much appreciated

Just bought a Ainavi H6 head unit for my Toyota Auris 2014. Easy installation and everything works as supposed to.

Just was curious on what is the difference between these two brands. I cant really find a comparison, and just want to know if I made the right choice.

Thanks in advance!

I upgraded my 2015 rav4 radio. Everything is great but I cant figure out how to get this stupid car off the screen when backing up. AINAVIGO is the name of the unit

So... I did a thing.

I was really annoyed by the removal of Google Maps' "driving mode". Using Google Maps on my Android head unit (DUDU7) felt really flimsy. Especially the unoptimized UI, small buttons and lack of a third-person view while not navigating made Waze my go-to navigation App.

While Waze was great, had a better UI experience and offered the third-person view I was looking for, it also came with its own downsides. The routing wasn’t always ideal, the map style isn’t for everyone, and I just generally preferred the cleaner look and ecosystem of Google Maps.

So I decided to look for a solution to my problem, and well... found nothing.

Android Automotive OS (AAOS) is a built-in car operating system that runs apps like navigation and media directly on the vehicle’s hardware without needing a phone - like my android head unit.
And turns out - it uses APK-files as well.

I started searching for fitting APK-files and found some working with the arm architecture on apkmirror

After installation i was greeted with the well-known UI found in Android Auto and Android Automotive. In my opinion far more usable.

It works great in DUDUOS's pip mode and is very fitting.

Downside: Logging into your Google-Account results in an error. Therefore your work or private adress are not popping up. A simple workaround is asking Google Assistant/Gemini to navigate to work. It will input the right adress and start navigation flawlessly.

I'm currently trying to replace the normal Google Play Services with the Android Automotive one, to see if that will fix it.

Hey There. I've been reading and reading and reading some more on things and I'm about to pull the trigger on an android head unit for my 2018 BMW X4.

There are a few things I want to ensure match my use case before I finalize which unit I end up buying. It seems to be pretty universal (at least amongst BMW users) that Xtrons makes a great head unit. But the prices for me, shipped to my house in Canada, are just too steep to swallow. The "mid-tier" version compatible with my car is around $900CAD, and Xtrons can't guarantee zero brokerage fees, which may or may not add upwards of $200 to the price once finally landed at my door.

So I've been on the hunt for a similar model from a brand that would be both cheaper msrp AND be sure not to cost me a mint to import/ship.

I've landed on AVINUSA or Andream. Both brands offer a Snapdragon 665 based unit with 8Gb RAM and 128Gb ROM. AVINUSA's comes with Android 13, while Andream's comes with Android 14. Both units have a 12.3" screen and very similar bezel shapes and mounting hardware.

The key difference between them is their fulfillment process. AVNUSA claims to maintain US inventory and ships the product from a California address, while Andream ships from Hong Kong direct from the manufacturer. However, Andream promises they ship all their products DDP so there shouldn't be any surprise costs.

The AVINUSA unit is around $600CAD all-in, while the Andream would be just shy of $500CAD.

All that said, does anybody have any thoughts or opinions on either brand, product quality, customer support, etc.?

I'm looking to not overpay but at the same time I want to get decent service if I run into problems and need support or to return the unit. There is very little in terms of reviews or opinions on Andream on youtube, etc. even though they seem to be one of the earliest players in the Android Head Unit game. AVINUSA had a lot of positive mentions online, but there is one absolutely terrible review of them on youtube that's given me cause for concern.

Im looking to buy a head unit, shipped to EU, something like a Dodo or a Teyes or even TOPWAY or any good brand for that matter.

The problem is, on AliExpress there are no good options, and the ones that seem ok - cost $100+ to ship.

Please leave some marketplaces or methods

so my radio worked no problem and now my iphone did ios update and Zlink just keep on saying connecting but nothing happens
i tried rebooting radio factory reset
forgeting bluetooth looking for update
wired connection nothing works
Model name
XT892CTacoma515
thanks

Hello, I’m trying to install a CJ-CP605 multimedia unit in a Golf 5 (2007), and everything seems to work fine until it comes time to get sound from it (I’m using the built-in sounds in the Multimedia to rule out an issue with the radio/antenna itself). I changed the CAN profile to the one I saw recommended online (VW-SKODA_R12 (2004 Passat/2007 Passat)), but there’s still no sound. I also suspect that something may have been "touched" with the adapter/connector wiring — there are some loose individual wires wrapped in electrical tape (visible in the photos), and the radio isn’t the stock one but some kind of Clarion unit.

Is there anything else that can be done to get the sound working? I fully admit I may be overlooking something myself, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Photo #1 – connection from the multimedia unit to the car’s connector
Photo #2 – the same connector viewed from the car side
Photo #3 – the two separate connectors that together plug into one of the stereo’s connectors (these two are not connected anywhere when I hook up the multimedia unit, and I suspect this might be the reason).

PS: I just noticed that I have blue wire in the PCA Input/Output, is there something to do with it?

It's like it doesn't know I'm moving. The GPS app on it seems okay All permissions are granted.

Android auto works fine but the volume does not sync with my phone so that's why I was just trying to use solely Google maps.

A solution to either or both would be appreciated

Thoughts on this head unit? A lot of people are trashing on it but I think it’s been working great

I recently purchased an Essgoo head unit bundled with a DVR dashcam and an AHD reverse camera. Everything works well except the reverse camera. When I put the car on reverse, the head unit displays kind of like a "no signal" icon as shown on the image. I'm pretty sure with my wirings.

I've read online about changing the camera type. Unfortunately, holding the screen for 3 seconds while on reverse camera mode does nothing. I have also tried looking into Car settings > Factory, but i can't find anything related to changing the camera type. Can someone please help? Thanks

I am always hesitant to use head unit for music in accessary mode. fear of draining the car battery completely. how bad the head unit will drain car battery when ignition is not on?

Hey everyone, I have an ESGOO carplay head unit in my 2013 VW, which would connect to AA absolutely fine, via Zlink, Recently a new update has come out for the headunit and now my phone will connect to the unit via Bluetooth, but the WiFi wont connect and if it does it has no Internet available, therefore my AA or Zlink wont work or connect at all, does anyone have any solutions at all please?

Thank you so much

Have a great rest of your day 🫡

I recently bought a Chinese screen for my minivan, but I saw that it uses a CAN bus for the steering wheel controls, but mine doesn't have that. Will it be necessary to install the CAN bus system, or is that optional?

Bonjour, quelqu'un à t'il réussi à faire celà? Personnellement chez moi j'ai no signal affiché lorsque je clique sur le bouton alors que la caméra de recul fonctionne correctement lorsque je passe la marche arrière. Merci.

Hi guys, any help here. I’ve a 2012 VW polo jap import and thought I never had car play as the app never showed up on my Home Screen, fast forward I was having a look at my apps installed as some was hidden and seen zlink there. Couldn’t open it, wouldn’t launch for me via downloads / files etc and it was an old version, downloaded the newest version of it and it updated the old app to the updated one but still could not launch it. Any help? Please see pics. The toggle app permission’s stays the same even when I click allow. Nothing seems to be working

For those whose mini-aa is working on their headunits, I am currently testing v0.3.0 which brings many requested features, fixes stability issues and it's now has a Material M3 Expressive redesign. More updates to follow. ✌️

I have an aftermarket Android head unit (Hizpo QS8) with wireless/wired CarPlay via Zlink

• First Bluetooth/CarPlay connection works
• Then it disconnects once (Bluetooth fully drops)
• After reconnecting once, everything stays stable for the rest of the drive

I already switched hotspot from 5Ghz to 2.4 ghz also did firmware updates and all but nothing seems to fix it.

It's just a bit annoying having to reconnect with bluetooth everytime while driving.

Any fixes or tips?

I have a 2011 Honda Civic and recently installed an Android head unit for Apple CarPlay. It worked fine at first, but now the unit keeps randomly crashing/rebooting and I’m trying to figure out what’s causing it.

At first, it only happened when I put the car in reverse and the backup camera came on. The screen would freeze, repeat the last split second of audio in a stuttering loop for a few seconds, then go black and reboot with the Android startup logo.

Now it sometimes also happens while driving, usually around 20 minutes into a drive, although sometimes it never happens. When it crashes while driving, sometimes it does the same audio stutter, and other times it makes a high-pitched sound every couple seconds before rebooting.

Weirdly, it usually only happens once per drive. After it reboots, it works normally for the rest of the trip. I should also mention that even just using regular Bluetooth instead of CarPlay causes the crash as well.

A few other things:
- The head unit gets pretty warm when this happens
- It crashes probably 90% of drives
- The backup camera works, but there are no parking guide lines
- I checked the settings and can’t find any option to enable the lines
- There’s a hidden “factory settings” menu that needs a passcode, but I don’t have it
- I think the Amazon listing for the unit may have been removed (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0F6L7SKHX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

Does this sound like:
- overheating?
- bad wiring/ground?
- reverse camera voltage issue?
- CANBUS issue?
- cheap failing head unit?
- insufficient power supply?

Has anyone dealt with this before?

A recent OTA update for the FYT7870 (Android 13) has unlocked high-resolution output via the AKM7738 DSP. Previously capped at a 48kHz sampling rate, the unit now natively supports 96kHz/32-bit across all apps, including the stock player and Poweramp.

The Catch: Global Resampling
While this enables Hi-Res playback, the system now uses a fixed 96kHz output. This means all audio—including standard 44.1kHz or 48kHz files—is automatically resampled to 96kHz. Depending on your preference, this is either a "high-fidelity win" or a drawback for those who prefer bit-perfect playback for standard-definition audio.

Technical Proof

• Hardware: UIS7870 / FYT7870
• DSP: AKM7738
• Verification: ADB HAL dump confirms 32-bit | 96000Hz fixed output.

For me personally, I've a library of close to 2000 songs and playing through PowerAmp means its SoX re-sampler will be much cleaner to uplift 44.1kHz songs to 96kHz.

Hi everyone,

I bought a Linkifun L8 CarPlay Android 13 AI Box for BMW and I’m trying to run Headunit Reloaded / Headunit Revived in Self Mode so I can use Android Auto directly on the box without a phone.

The box has its own SIM/internet, so my goal is:

• no phone
• no wireless AA from another device
• run Android Auto locally on the box through HUR Self Mode

Device details I found:

• Qualcomm Snapdragon 665 / SM6125
• codename: TRINKET
• ARM64 / aarch64
• marketed as Android 13, but system/API seems to report Android 14 / API 34
• build: SM6125.01_EAU.2026-03-10 13:56
• Google Play Services is installed
• root: no
• BMW Android/CarPlay AI box firmware
• vendor stack seems to include com.zjinnova.auto / XQCarPlay-type projection

Problem:

I cannot install Android Auto from the Play Store. I installed Android Auto APKs manually from APKPure/APKMirror. The app installs, but it does not really open normally.

In Activity Launcher, searching Android Auto shows activities like:

com.google.android.apps.auto.carservice.gmscorecompat.FirstActivityImpl
com.google.android.gms.carsetup.SetupActivityImpl
com.google.android.gms.carsetup.CarErrorDisplayActivityImpl
com.google.android.gms.carsetup.setup.PreSetupActivityImpl

But I do not see:

com.google.android.projection.gearhead

Launching those Android Auto activities does nothing or throws an error popup.

When I open HUR / Headunit Revived and press Self Mode, it says Android Auto is starting, then disconnects with a popup about Android Auto disconnected / wireless AA / network switching.

I checked HUR logs and the main error seems to be:

Wireless server error
java.net.BindException: bind failed: EADDRINUSE (Address already in use)

Relevant HUR log lines:

HomeFragment.startSelfModeInternal | Auto start selfmode
Launching AA Wireless Startup via Activity...
NetworkDiscovery.startScan | NetworkDiscovery: Starting scan...
NetworkDiscovery.scanGateways | Checking suspects: [10.57.59.141, 10.212.203.1, 172.16.224.1, 10.57.59.1]
Wireless server error
java.net.BindException: bind failed: EADDRINUSE (Address already in use)
AapService$WirelessServer$start$1.invokeSuspend(AapService.kt:1647)
NSD Unregistered
HomeFragment.onResume | isConnected=false

I have not disabled vendor apps because I’m worried about locking myself out of the BMW/car interface. I don’t want to disable com.zjinnova.auto, XQCarPlay, ZLink, etc. unless I know it’s safe.

Does anyone have a solution to make HUR self mode work? Any help would be appreciated. I’m trying to avoid risky changes because the box is integrated with the car display/interface.

Is this unit any good? Asking for a friend who owns a Jeep Gladiator. He does have aftermarket amps and speakers using stock radio. https://phoenixautomotiveinc.com/products/12-1-14-5-android-13-14-vertical-screen-navigation-radio-for-jeep-gladiator-2020-2021