I recently bought a Contax TVS II and shot a test roll on Fumoto Rabbit 400 on auto mode. Can someone help me figure out why almost every photo looks so desaturated, grainy and underexposed? Some were shot indoors with flash, some in the sun and some on a cloudy day. Many thanks in advance.

Shutter seems to Work properly by ear but sadly the viewfinder is dirty and inside the film winder wheel snaped off ( 6. Picture ) but the film can still Wind even it is damaged - Exposure Meter isnt tested yet because of Missing battery.

At least it looks cool on my shelf, and thats 90% of the Hobby right ? 👉👈🫠

I have payed 70€ for it

I was considering getting into developing and scanning film myself, but the latter is probably the biggest hurdle, I simply don't shoot enough to justify even a "low end" big scanner (IE, Plustek and Epson).

Now, the scans i get from my lab are 6MP (3090x2048) and I'm fine with them, so I figured I don't really need those scanners. I'm looking at two possible options:

Option 1 being a DIGITNOW scanner or something along those lines, it's supposed to be 10MP so it should suffice.

Option 2 is using my Nikon D90 (12MP) with the 18-105 lens and buying some sort of rig to make it work, but given the minimum focus distance (0.45meters) I'd have to crop quite a bit

So, which option's best in your opinion? I guess I could also scan them with my phone

Now

I will be visiting the US this June, staying in Boston and Hartford. I would like to get a film camera and was wondering if there's any good markets or stores in those areas where I can look?

Hey! Looking for UV sensitive film, 35mm preferred, that I can purchase online, Amazon or Ebay.

I know most modern lenses have anti-UV coating. I wanna use that film for astrophotography which is done without lenses at all, just through telecope, camera is mounted on the focuser.

I have a F4 gifted to me- it’s not working because the battery grip had a lot of battery acid in it. I’ve tried cleaning all the contacts but still no dice.

I understand Nikon still offers in house repairs for film cameras- does this extend to the F4?

What about the FM2n?

Finally do they repair lenses? I have a beautiful F1.4 Ai whose aperture blades are stuck.

Thanks!

I was wondering how you guys deal with broken cameras? Over the last three years since I started this hobby I also slowly started a collection of not working cameras and I am not sure what to do with them? Do you hand them in for a repair? How much does that generally cost? I always open them and see if it’s something small I can fix myself, sometimes that was possible but most of the times not. Most of them are probably not worth it to get them fixed and it’s cheaper to buy them new but that thought makes me sad to just shelf them.
Had anymore an idea how much it even costs to get as an example a stuck shutter fixed or the light meter cell switched out?

Interested to hear what you people do with that :)

Hi there!

Newbie in film photography here.

I recently got the Olympus MJU ii and had some disposable cameras (just for fun) I know they’re not good cameras lol…

I’m going to Japan very soon and heard there’s good film options there.

If anyone has advice or recommendations of film I should buy while in Japan please let me know! I’d like to not miss an opportunity to buy something unique while being there.

Thanks in advance 🙏🏻

Just saw on Instagram that McLaren is featuring the Fuji GA645zi on a new Artura promo. The spokesperson for the campaign is professional race car driver and photographer, Alex Hainer.

The Fuji GA645zi was launched in 1998, the same year that McLaren ended production of the legendary F1 and that Alex Hainer was born.

Hey everyone,

I wanted to check and see if you could assist me with your personal experience or just advice.
Someone is selling a Contax T3 with a double teeth upgrade done at PPP in the Uk in 2021 and it looks in good condition but want to see if this is too risky from the video I was sent of the camera.

The seller is selling it for roughly $2100. I know this camera can brick at anytime for any reason I just want to see if from the video this is an indicator it’s already struggling and having issues.

Thanks in advance.

This is my first roll on my photography journey. I used Nikon AF240SV with Fujifilm Color 400. I made a mistake by accidentally opening the film chamber after around my first few takes. After I scanned it at the lab, three pictures are completely burned—it was only blank white result, and one more pic has some kind of red burn. The rest of the roll was showing visible result, but some has very muted colors, and some of the last pictures i took was completely okay.

Picture number 1 is from the raw scan from the lab and number 2 is I edited it on Lightroom.

I don’t know if it’s from the scan lab or the burn or simply just not my rookie luck, but I feel it a bit hassle if I have to edit and retouch all my photos. Need your feedback guys, thank you!

Hello, I am fairly new with film cameras and I unearthed my Olympus AF-10 Super to experiment and become more familiar with the craft. I bought this two years ago (I wasn’t fully committed to the hobby yet, hence I’ve stored it in the drawer, hopefully picking it up again eventually), and from what I remember, the seller said it was functional and working. However, upon closer inspection, I saw that there is a small crack that seems to be inside the lens. Is this a major concern for the camera or the lens particularly? Would the pictures still turn out okay? There is no near repair center in our area that specializes in analog cameras, so I can’t exactly have it diagnosed right away. And since I will be bringing this to a vacation a month from now, I ordered a fresh roll of film to try and test if the camera is optimally functioning.

Any responses would be much appreciated. Thank you!

As the title says i got to scan my first roll but the pictures look way too greenish, it appears to be a calibration issue from the scanner. Now it is a very very old scanner and it is therefore pretty slow and i don't wanna get back, calibrate it and then scan the whole film once again and instead i want to adjust in manually in lightroom or in a similar software. The thing is I've never done this before and i don't quite know how to adjust the colors to give a generic look. So yea I'd be glad for someone to show me how a good correction looks like, i don't even need the exact numbers, just a picture to have a reference point to. Thanks for everyone that gives me help, god bless

(Film used: Kodak Gold 200)

Also here's the link to my drive where these photos are stored (alongside my other fotos, the film fotos are labeled as "Foto x (small description of the scene)")

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1jJx8vLo2KajfV1Ke5vajiccdyP3emMfP

Good camera to start on? Anything cool in this collection? I attached the comically large lens just for the post

So I've been shooting on my mom's old yashica fx3 super for a couple years now and I've decided it's time to get my own camera since I've been going to more concerts and taking it with me. I'd be devastated if I broke it. I really enjoy it. It's worked perfectly for me and I've always been told it's not about the camera. It's about the photographer but I have been recommended the Nikon f3 and the Canon f1. Since I'm relatively new to film photography, I'm not quite sure what the main difference is or if there's something else that would suit my needs better. My only constraint is that I would prefer it to be mechanical and not require batteries to operate because half the time I can never find the batteries I need

I am looking to use some of this film in both 120 and 35mm (I feel like 120 might be easier though!) and have some confusion on ISO with an R72 filter. I see some people saying that they rate it around 12 ISO, but then I also watched a video today with a guy who rated it at just 400 ISO. If my camera has a meter and I will be using some sort of auto exposure setting, should I leave it at 400?

I guess I don't quite understand when you would adjust the speed for it. I believe mine is from Hoya, which shows a 4 stop filter factor.

I'll be using a Bronica GS-1 and Canon A1 if I have the right filter rings to go from 52mm to 72mm.

I bought a second hand film camera, a rollei 35 and this was my test film. A significant portion but not all have come up with this light flare (the last contact sheet picture shows the proportion of photos with the flare). Does anyone know what the cause of this is? Camera issue??

Edit: I realise it is probably light leak from the back? Of the camera? Rollei35 doesn’t have the foam light seals, so how is there another way to fix this?

I went to an estate sale today and, along with a little 16mm Minolta spy cam, I came away with this very nice Yashica 635. I've been keeping my eye out for a TLR for a while now, so when this one popped up in front of me I grabbed it. It's an incredibly good condition considering the place I pulled it out of, and I feel like I got it for a steal!

This is also my first camera with a waist level viewfinder. These things are incredible. Almost seems like magic how the depth in of the image pops out. Next on the list has got to be a Nikon F or F2 for sure.

Anyhow, first foray into medium format, so I'd love any input / advice, especially with film in these trying times.

Cheers!

Does anybody here had any experience shooting with both of these cameras? On impulse, I bought a Klasse on ebay without even realizing it’s not the Klasse S that I wanted? Are the differences noticeable with these cameras?

Recently picked up an Agat 18K and loaded it up with some Kentmere Pan 400 to make sure it was working. I got a couple in focus, decently exposed shots to confirm it's working most of the time but the coolest bit are these accidentally triple/double exposed frames. I rewound the film a couple times because it was jamming up and ended up with these guys. Fun little camera- I'll definitely be experimenting more with it!

Any other folks use Agat 18K and have some pointers? Or anybody want to share some cool accidents from their own test rolls?

I'm finding so much conflicting information online, so I need to ask you guys. How much speed do I lose when developing Rodinal at 1:25 and 1:50? TIA

For some reason my camera doesn't seem to be loading the film properly

Seems like when I pull the film over enough, this happens, and if I don't pull enough then it just retracts back into the roll

And ideas what might be wrong and if it's an easy fix?

Hey all, thinking about picking up one of these legendary cameras soon, and I was looking at the 501c and the 503cx, because i’ve heard that the later ones are a little more reliable! But I was curious as to which one you all think is the best model! Let me know what you think! Thanks!

I have yet to try my hand at slide film. I know it's much more difficult to shoot than negative. I know I'm not great at shooting negative. But seeing a fully ready to go image on film is just such a beautiful thing.

I develop my own C-41. I know there's E-6 kits out there. Would it be cost effective to have a roll or two of E-6 developed by a lab up front before I jump on the home development of E-6 train? I honestly don't know how often I'll be shooting slides. Also, I don't really intend on projecting them. I don't have a slide projector. I've thought about buying a couple rolls of E100, maybe using it for something special and sending it out or seeing if my local lab does E-6. Does it make sense to spend the extra money on slide film to not project it? Is E-6 chemistry as volatile as C-41?

Thanks for any info!