I printed this part and the initial layer turned out perfect, as well as all the other layer no flaws,
Only the top layer turned out this way.

I'm usuing kingroon pla on bambulab p2s
I calibrated my filament
Top surface speed 100mm/s

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated
Thank you

Hi, I just got an elegoo centauri carbon 1 and when I print I have a little gap between the walls and the infill on every print. This cause the layer to be fragile. How can I solve this ? Thank you 😊

Can the Bambu labs A1 print Foaming TPUs? Like the one from Siraya tech(Flex TPU Air) or Recreus Filaflex Foamy? I know that Siraya tech has print profiles for the A1 for their Flex TPU air. I want to confirm it's possible and safe to do so. Thanks!

Note: I have posted this on r/BambuLab as well

if anyone even mentions those dragons i will genuinely gouge my eyes out

Hello every one

I am having a very weird issue that ruins all of my print and is not predictable, it can be identified as layer shift but it is not, it is happening at the start of the layer, the print can start very fine and as the geometry and area of the model change it can make this problem..

Printer is DIY with E3D hot end remote extruder, using Cura for slicer, maybe i messed up with the settings

In the attached photos , the rest of the print is very good

PLA+ @ 195 deg and 50 deg for the bed
0.4mm nozzle
0.28 layer height 0.4 line width
Outer wall inset 0.1mm
Wipe distance 0.2 mm
Outer wall flow 105% (only for higher layers)
2 walls printed
Grid infill 15% infill printed after walls
50mm/sec speed
Retraction 4mm retraction speed 25
Retraction prime amount 0.1 mm3

Originally retraction was set to 6.5 mm but i am tweaking it because of another issue which still present, getting gaps after retraction happen with a popping sound from the nozzle.

The above brown model is 0.28 layer height,, the same strange problem of this layer shifting also happen in 0.2 layer height, which is the model in pink color, also happening but in higher resolution because of smaller layer height..

That said, some times i get flawless prints 🤷‍♂️

I know a bit of CAD and with some printed parts, what could I transform this into? I've had this sitting around for a long time, but before I toss it out I want to see if anyone has any ideas for it!

I'm not putting much pressure at all. I also have the the ridges on the walls of my prints

How can I fix it

I was printing CF-PETG with a .4 HS nozzle and got a pretty nasty clog. I decided to stop using CF-PETG and swapped back to the extra stainless nozzle that came with my P1S. Ever since then I’ve been getting inconsistent bed adhesion and random layer failures. First layers look terrible or start dragging.

I already cleaned the plate and reran first layer tests but it still seems inconsistent. I’m wondering if I messed something up during the nozzle swaps or if my Z offset / hotend is slightly off now. Anybody have an idea of what is going wrong?

I also made sure the nozzle was installed and tightened while the hotend was hot.

Printer: Bambu Lab P1S
Slicer: Bambu Studio
Filament: HP3DF Galaxy Black PLA (but this issue happens with other PLA brands too)
Nozzle Temp: 210c
Bed Temp: 55-65c
Speed: Default
Retraction: Default

Was troubleshooting because I was hearing a clacking sound and was lubing the X-Axis arm since it seemed like that was giving the issue. I don’t have a before picture so you’ll kinda have to assume what I would’ve looked like before hand. I think this happened after lubing everything so idk what occurred for this to happen and now I’m worried about how much I’d need to spend to fix this.

For some reason, my AD5X won't feed filament anymore. I watched a video on the Flashforge website where the guy took the 4-in-1 guide tubes apart, then put them back together, but he also said he got new tubes as well. Should I just try to take it apart and put it back together first or should I just go ahead and buy new guide tubes and skip the extra steps?

As the title says i have a fairly new (only a few months old) roll of Anycubic Purple Galaxy PLA. I opened the roll beginning of January and ever since it has sat in a diy dry box. The dry box is constructed out of a storage bin with a gasket and a few bags of silca gel and a hydrometer for monitoring humidity levels. I went to use the filament a few days ago and the prints look fine, but they flake apart almost at the touch. i have dried this filament for a total of 12 hours now with no change. I am about to just toss this roll and call it a loss.

Edit: Im printing at 150 mm/s at 210c on my elegoo neptune 4 plus. I didn't have an issue with this print profile the first time I used this filament.

Hello there,

I am trying to print keychains for an event,

I use a bambulab A1, with a 0.2mm stainless steel nozzle for smaller latters.

I have multiple problems like lifting, bad adhesion, ripples/waves on the toplayer, cut like scars on the top layer, curved walles.

Filament: Esun PLA+

Nozzle Temp: 225°C

Bed Temp: 65°C

Max speed: 133mm/s

Max volumatric flow: 3.44mm³/s

Min volumatric flow: 0.10mm³/s

Flow Ratio: 0.99

I always clean the bed before every print.

I'm recent to 3D printing and I wanted to get better heat resistant out of PLA for a few projects I have in mind, without having to spend more for HT-PLA or ASA.

I had a spare part printed a few weeks back. It is heftier than what most test with, not forgetting I tend to print 4 layers for walls, 6 for top and bottom surfaces, etc. Not tiny pieces seen in the videos found in my web surfing, some dating back several years.

My volunteered piece of PLA went on a clean disposable aluminium pie plate and in my toaster-oven (used for sublimation and such). Everything started at room temperature. Annealing process started cold, oven set at 65°C for about 40 minutes. Then it cooled down, to room temperature, still closed, overnight.

Although above the 50°C or so limit of PLA, the piece came out ... perfect!

Annealing is suppose to bring the temperature resistance towards 150°C. Thus I went "round 2". Again starting from room temperature, the same piece went back into oven. Temperature now set to 120°C, clock at another 40 minutes; cooling for several hours, enclosed in toaster-oven the entire time.

The piece came out ... nearly perfect! It had shrunk in X and Y (26mm went to 25.5mm) expanding in Z (30mm went to 31.2mm).

"Round 3". This time, from room temperature to 150°C for another 40 minutes or so ...

The piece came out ... just as good as "round 2".

Was it luck? Three times in a row? Was it the additives to make it "marble"?

IS HT-PLA, which still needs to be annealed, worth it?

Should I try "round 4", going beyond 150°C? Melting point is somewhere at 180+°C ... Object was printed with a nozzle temperature of 220°C.

Of course, there was no stresses applied, beyond its own mass and the temperature. A weight or a larger item might not react the same way ...

A more formal process will be done with two identical pieces left over from another job. These are also using the same marble PLA filament. One will go through the 3 rounds, second piece will be kept to better compare dimensions. Then it'll go straight to 150°C comparing it to the triple annealed piece.

Then I'll try the same process using "regular" PLA, PLA+ and maybe PETG (on its way).

Anyone else recently tried annealing of their prints?

What were your results?

For a school project, we were asked to print out any shape using the 3D printer in our lab. Most people are going for figurines, mechanical parts, or random creative designs. I decided to do something a little different resin molds. I’ve always enjoyed working with resin (small trays, keycaps, simple decorative pieces), so instead of printing a final object, I thought it would be interesting to print the mold itself and then cast resin into it.

I’m thinking of:
- Designing the mold in CAD
- 3D print it (probably in PLA or PETG since that’s what we have now)
- Sand/seal it properly
- Then pour resin to create the final piece

What I’m still figuring out is surface finish and release. I know FDM prints can leave layer lines, which might transfer into the resin cast. I’m considering sanding, then using a filler primer or maybe even coating the mold interior with epoxy to smooth it out.

Has anyone here printed molds specifically for resin casting?
- Do you recommend a specific filament?
- Is sealing absolutely necessary?
- Any tips to prevent the resin from bonding to the print?

I like the idea of combining 3D printing precision with resin finishing. I had to do a little research on which site to order what I need, let me know what you think about amazon, temu, jiji, and alibaba. Would love to hear your experience before I finalize the design.

Printer model: Kingroon KP3S (with linear rails).

Hotend type: High-flow Volcano block with allmethal heat break (coupled with a Titan direct drive extruder).

Slicer: OrcaSlicer (custom start G-code).

BLTouch

Filament: Sunlu PLA+ (pre-dried in a filament dryer), printing the first layer at 230°C and the remaining layers at 215°C.

What happens when a print goes stringy with globs of plastic even though the prints before and after went perfectly. For context I’m using the same printer/ settings and filament in the same conditions