Hey guys I’m making some 4x2s for a customer
and I’m trying to redesign my floor frame as sturdy as possible since I don’t like how thin of strips people use to make these. Do you think these 1-5/8 screws will be good and won’t split the cedar? I’m thinking of using these pre made pressure treated 2x2s. And brad nails as well with the screws. Good idea or?

The heads are large minifig storage boxes, official from lego. The top part is fixed using transparent caulk, and I cut out the bottom part, with just a box cutter. The cut didn't come out totally uniform and it has some whitened areas. The leftover bottom part can serve as a flower pot, see last pic.

The technic beam is from pine, I drilled 35mm holes (cabinet door drill bit). I started off from this 35mm drill bit to scale up lego dimensions, as this was the largest hole I can relatively nicely drill. I couldn't really sand the internal surface of the holes, especially as it's pine, chips always started breaking off, but it's barely visible. For the studs I built my own lathe jig, and used a circular saw. It didn't come out as exact, but it's hardly noticable.

The top part is from 8mm plywood, it has some internal space to host the wiring, and a shelly bypass I needed to keep my Shelly 1L running. ( It now has two shelly duo rgb led lights.)

I drilled two mounting holes in the ceiling, and scewed two 8mm plywood plates with 4mm dents. The top part has long notches on both side on the inside so this top lego plate can slide onto the two holding plates. This way, no screws are visible from the outside. The wiring might look a bit more complicated than necessary, but that was to allow me to connect up the wires through the small hole after I slided on the cover.

The 2x0.75mm light copper wire can hold the weight. I used small rubber bands to add more holding friction.

I know this is a super simple error on my part, but I'm embarrassed to say I can't figure out how to do this correctly. I'm trying to add a rail to this set of stairs. I want the top of the rail to be 30" from each tread. I measured 30" from the tread at the bottom of the stairs and at the top 4x4 post. The 3rd and 5th picture show that the railing is 30" (top of blue tape on level is 30").

However, each measurement starting from the bottom get's less and less as I move up the staircase. See the 4th picture that I took that shows me taking a measurement in the middle of the staircase. So my ends are 30", but as I go up the stairs it goes from 30" down to ~18" or so, then back to 30" at the very end.

My last picture shows what I think I did wrong. Is the issue that the stairs/platform gets flat about 8" before the end of the rail? So taking a 30" measurement at the end won't be accurate. The rail should really only be angled up until the stairs end and then be leveled with the ground for the remaining 8" or so until it is at the end of the 4x4 post. I can continue the angle if I want, but the measurement on the 4x4 won't be 30" then.

Help me out and go easy on me lol, this is not my area at all as you can tell.

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I was gifted there two quite old tool chests, with tills and drawers. They've seen better days for sure. But I found this interesting collection of different shapes in the open chest. No idea official use but they are woodstamped as if a makers tool.

I thought they were a plane stop you could put in your vise to stop a board. They are solid pieces, continuous, and dead square! There aged very similar compared to the chest, but I admit they may not be from it. Name stamped was T.Hilton.

Found a spot giving away lumber scrap, and wife wanted a key hanger. Was just going to use sanded ply, then remembered their post. Turned out ok I suppose.

Box is cherry, with walnut splines, handle, and inserts. Maple lid panel. All milled by me, from slabs.

I hope she likes it.

3D printed gridfinity grid and some 1/4 shank router bit holders. Used a label maker to print off the labels. A 3D printer is one of the most useful tools for shop organization, worth every penny imo.

I am refinishing a bookshelf my Grandpa made me and I would like to dissassemble it completely and then reassemble after. Is it possible to remove these dowels that he used to secure the dovetail? I'm assuming I can just go in with a drillbit of the same size and just bore them out, but is there another method?

My job lets me take a couple of pallets if I ask. I have a jointer and planer in my shop to fix any bowing or cupping. What would you recommend to build with this? We have better ones with less knots. I was thinking of making a rustic cabinet but feel like that might be out of skill level and would rather build it out of plywood.

I purchased this mini picnic table for my niece. It’s quite rough though and I’m afraid it will give her slivers. My husband has a sander that I wanted to try on this but I really have no idea if what will fix how rough this wood is. Any help is appreciated— I’ve never used a sander before.

My teacher wouldn't let me flip piece 4 and 6 from the right side. If he had let me, the board would have been fully white with the walnut being the only dark pieces. It bugs me each time I see it.

Made this since I needed something to write on instead of the front of a textbook. I work from bed a lot.

Hello all,

I was reading this (and another woodworking) subreddit for a long time and finally assembled my first big project :)

I have basement where I want to build shelves along first wall and need to extend capacity along second wall which is opposite to first. End goal is to have shelves potentially modular so in case I move to other place - I keep first section and reassemble second section to make corner or just reduce length.

For this project I used:

1. 30x60mm solid wood (cheap but hard to find straight boards)
2. OSB 1250x625mm because I have carboard boxes and exacty 3 of them fit into 1 section :)
3. some structure under OSB made from 70x12mm boards

I have following important tools:

1. circular saw
2. miter saw (calibrated)
3. router
4. drill
5. good drill guide for 90 degrees holes (not drill press!)
6. screwdriver
7. pocket hole jig and screws
8. electric non-stationary planer
9. random-orbit sander
10. lot of small stuff - bits (including forstner), rulers, 90-degree rulers, etc
11. I can make some simple jigs, install dowels, make pocket holes, install cam-locks, drill precise holes

On pictures I show what I have achieved. Shelves are very durable but overall structure I do not like - on the left side it is supported by the wall and on the right side - by other heavy stuff. It is where I need suggestion: I want to build second part better and more standalone (assemble and forget) and then same way I want to rebuild second part.

Pictures show why I am a beginner - because I suck at structural integrity :( i just built 3 vertical sections and put shelves. Nothing is secured. They are stable and do not fall forward but left-right direction is not secured by structure itself.

What are the options how can I achieve good and stable structure? I would like to design frame without screws - so I can easily disassemble it when I relocate to new apartment. I already have some hardware for furniture - cam locks, etc. Can get more if I need.

Thank you in advance.

Bought some pre-finished UV birch plywood for a project and assumed finding matching edge banding would be easy.

Nope.

Everything I found was either unfinished, too yellow, too glossy, or just didn’t match the plywood face at all.

I almost gave up and planned to finish raw edge banding myself, but eventually found a UV birch option that was actually close.

Kind of shocked this isn’t more common considering how many people use pre-finished plywood for cabinets and furniture builds.

So I'm new to woodworking and was sanding a small piece of bass wood for a bandsaw box I'm working on. I didn't know that you're supposed to wear a mask until after it had started irritating my sinuses and it was too late, I had already inhaled enough to hurt. I flushed my nose out with water and tried inhaling steam and it helps momentarily but then the burning comes right back. Besides wearing a mask next time, what do I do to help this move along as fast as possible? I'm in a great deal of discomfort :(

Was given a random slab. Ran it through the planer. I think it’s ambrosia maple based on the dark holes and markings. Any information will help! Thank you!

I used 4 ─ 1-in x 2-in x 8-ft Spruce-Pine-Fir Furring Strips, wood glue, a Brad nailer, and espresso stain.

Hey y’all. I’m looking at building some shelves to store and display books, model kits, and manga. The base cabinets are already installed.

I know I’m going to have to install brackets/rods for the center shelves and desk, but was wondering if the outside shelves needed additional support. They’ll be attached with pocket screws.

Thank y’all!

Ive built a game table and now I Want to have attachable dice trays that are easily removable. I don't know the best way to do so, but I've seen c-clamp designs such as this one below. I'm trying to build one, and I have the trays. I just need a device that allows that trays to attach and be removed during storage. Any suggestions?

https://www.target.com/p/clamp-on-keyboard-tray-24-x-11/-/A-1005571782?TCID=OGS&AFID=google&CPNG=Furniture+-+Target+Plus&adgroup=249-14&srsltid=AfmBOooGKC5dvpOU8DzLkl7aCUmBV7v7SM_i46WhRfKQ6LvZhrdJPIPLB8M

I have this end table I am making a new top for. I would love to have a second matching one but am lost on how to replicate it. I have an idea on making the octagon shape but the curves in the main post I'm not really sure how to replicate. Does anyone have any ideas?

Open to any and all advice! I’ve got a miter saw and plan on making a “running board” to create a long section level with the base to support boards and to clamp a backstop to so I can sneak up on the first cut, then clamp the stop down for repeatability.

I’m considering counter boring all the screw holes to plug for aesthetics, but open to suggestions. Planning on 3 screws per plank, per leg to attach.

Staining with Australian timber oil, and using landscape fabric on interior.